BMW E46

It looks relatively clean. I see some wear on the driver seat but that's to be expected. Only buy it if you enjoy working on cars. Otherwise those cars will bleed you dry. Basically anything made of rubber or plastic will need replacing unless done recently by the previous owner. There is a lot of plastic under the hood. Also, many of those E46's are oil burners. The later ones are better.
 
PPI and if OK, then enjoy it. It is an older high mileage European car and the buyer should know what that means...if they don't, then I'd say "walk away".
Agreed. Check it out in person, take it for a drive. If it is worthy of further consideration, have a trusted BMW specialist inspect it. 131k miles is nothing for that engine and trans. But I would be concerned with what services are due or overdue, and what the state of the suspension is. I know when I hit around 120k on my 2001 E39 540, the front struts needed replacing and at around 160k I replaced all the front control arms, bushings and ball joints, to include the steering center link and tie rod ends. By 175k I did the same on the rear.
 
Notice that the center console at the cup holders is busted. It's odd that there's not a single photo of the engine compartment. I own a 1999 model with 145,000 miles and I can tell you that if you can't work on this car yourself then you're in for a world of expense.

My car has needed the oil filter housing gasket replaced along with the oil pan gasket plus a couple of valve cover gaskets... just to stop the oil leaks. It has a complicated PCV system that requires the tubing be replaced or you'll be fighting vacuum leaks, CEL's, and rough idle. The DISA valve on the intake manifold likes to get dirty and stick. This is part of the variable intake runner system so if it has not been maintained then you're in for a fun weekend there.

At this mileage and age you can expect a coil or two to need some attention. My car has had only one spark plug change in 26 years of ownership and never a coil replacement. I am expecting something anytime. Oxygen sensors are due also.

A/C compressor conked out requiring replacement. Radiator, electric thermostat and expansion tank have all required replacement once in 26 years.

The only time the car left me stranded was when one of the pulleys on the serpentine belt came apart. I was able to get parts at the local AutoZone and fixed it in the Kroger parking lot.

Knowing what I know about the E46 BMW... I LOVE this car. Add the manual gearbox and you have a fun, cheap, hobby car.
 
Notice that the center console at the cup holders is busted. It's odd that there's not a single photo of the engine compartment. I own a 1999 model with 145,000 miles and I can tell you that if you can't work on this car yourself then you're in for a world of expense.

My car has needed the oil filter housing gasket replaced along with the oil pan gasket plus a couple of valve cover gaskets... just to stop the oil leaks. It has a complicated PCV system that requires the tubing be replaced or you'll be fighting vacuum leaks, CEL's, and rough idle. The DISA valve on the intake manifold likes to get dirty and stick. This is part of the variable intake runner system so if it has not been maintained then you're in for a fun weekend there.

At this mileage and age you can expect a coil or two to need some attention. My car has had only one spark plug change in 26 years of ownership and never a coil replacement. I am expecting something anytime. Oxygen sensors are due also.

A/C compressor conked out requiring replacement. Radiator, electric thermostat and expansion tank have all required replacement once in 26 years.

The only time the car left me stranded was when one of the pulleys on the serpentine belt came apart. I was able to get parts at the local AutoZone and fixed it in the Kroger parking lot.

Knowing what I know about the E46 BMW... I LOVE this car. Add the manual gearbox and you have a fun, cheap, hobby car.
Loved my 2001 E46 330 ZSP too, because when everything was right, it was such a fun car to drive. However, getting it right (or keeping it right) required a lot of work. It was the car that started my sadistic relationship with German car maintenance. And that "relationship" continues today with my dubs. I'm never at a loss for something to work on, which being retired is kind of a good thing. Sort of. Maybe I'll learn someday.
 
Personally, I would prefer the 3 liter and manual version of an E46 if I were to buy one. Regardless, if you own a decent set of hand tools and have a modicum of mechanical ability or access to YouTube you will experience the ultimate driving machine for much less expense than the Accord/Camry driving naysayers claim who sit in the peanut gallery and throw stones at Bavarian ownership. The BMW in-line 6 cyl. is one of the all- time great motors with a beautiful power band to behold.
 
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What advice would you give someone if they were looking to acquire this car? https://neshautosales.com/vdp/23321351/Used-2003-BMW-3Series-I-for-sale-in-Decatur-GA-30030
Two problems, one being big one:
1. The big one: Check rear subframe. They are known to rust at the floor where bushings connect. This is Georgia, so if vehicle was driven in the South that should be OK, but ABSOLUTELY check it.
2. Oil pump nut. If that was not changed, plan to take down the oil pan, access the oil pump, and replace the nut with the updated one.

The rest are typical BMW stuff. They run hot, which means coolant hoses need replacement. At that mileage, I would say they have never been changed. Use only BMW OE stuff as aftermarket is not good, or mediocre quality (Rein). Plan to change all hoses and the coolant reservoir. It is not expensive, but it takes time.
DISA valves can be an issue. If they fail, don't be tempted to buy aftermarket (Rein, FEBI, etc). Go strictly OE. The reason is that if OE fails, they don't disintegrate. Aftermarket disintegrates, and you end up with plastic pieces going into the combustion chamber. You can imagine rest.
Suspension on BMW is very strong, with oversized parts. BUT, it is tight! And because it is BMW< and you can always feel what your tires do and where they are (because it is what makes BMW a BMW), you can also feel when these parts start to deteriorate. On a Toyota's new or worn part, it is going to drive like a boat, and you will never know what the wheels are doing. On BMW, you will feel deterioration and will require a change, as other parts will fail. Only BMW OE or Lemforder (OEM). DOn;t think suspension is weak. I replaced all suspension pieces at 105,000 miles, and I am at 160,000 now, with some 6,000 miles on track. Most cars would disintegrate on the track after 1000 miles. But, when you do it, do it right!
 
Personally, I would prefer the 3 liter and manual version of an E46 if I were to buy one. Regardless, if you own a decent set of hand tools and have a modicum of mechanical ability or access to YouTube you will experience the ultimate driving machine for much less expense than the naysayers claim who sit in the peanut gallery and throw stones at Bavarian ownership.
It is getting really hard to find them in good condition. And when you do, price is....
 
At that mileage, you want to have had the entire cooling system already replaced. All the plastics turn to dust around 100K. I looked through the Carfax but nothing about cooling system other than a flush. I would also drop an endoscope into the oil fill hole to see what oil change history was really like.
 
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Everyone hit the biggies and they're all typical BMW.
CCV - when it stops working you get oil consumption and sludge.
Cooling System - pumps and thermostats as well as hoses. Ask about my daughter's dumping all the coolant out on the highway of the blue. Change to the lower pressure cap if it has the high pressure cap and get a new overflow bottle if it hasn't been changed when coolant changed.
transmission - no one services them and even a manual needs the fluid changed if you want it to shift nice.
Motor and transmission mounts
Nice thing about the iron block is you don't have to buy all new aluminum fasteners every time you do some work, unlike the magnesium alloy block.
 
Nice thing about the iron block is you don't have to buy all new aluminum fasteners every time you do some work, unlike the magnesium alloy block.
This vehicle has the M54B25 engine. This is an aluminum block and head design. This is one reason that cooling system failure is such an issue.
 
Two problems, one being big one:
1. The big one: Check rear subframe. They are known to rust at the floor where bushings connect. This is Georgia, so if vehicle was driven in the South that should be OK, but ABSOLUTELY check it.
2. Oil pump nut. If that was not changed, plan to take down the oil pan, access the oil pump, and replace the nut with the updated one.

The rest are typical BMW stuff. They run hot, which means coolant hoses need replacement. At that mileage, I would say they have never been changed. Use only BMW OE stuff as aftermarket is not good, or mediocre quality (Rein). Plan to change all hoses and the coolant reservoir. It is not expensive, but it takes time.
DISA valves can be an issue. If they fail, don't be tempted to buy aftermarket (Rein, FEBI, etc). Go strictly OE. The reason is that if OE fails, they don't disintegrate. Aftermarket disintegrates, and you end up with plastic pieces going into the combustion chamber. You can imagine rest.
Suspension on BMW is very strong, with oversized parts. BUT, it is tight! And because it is BMW< and you can always feel what your tires do and where they are (because it is what makes BMW a BMW), you can also feel when these parts start to deteriorate. On a Toyota's new or worn part, it is going to drive like a boat, and you will never know what the wheels are doing. On BMW, you will feel deterioration and will require a change, as other parts will fail. Only BMW OE or Lemforder (OEM). DOn;t think suspension is weak. I replaced all suspension pieces at 105,000 miles, and I am at 160,000 now, with some 6,000 miles on track. Most cars would disintegrate on the track after 1000 miles. But, when you do it, do it right!
He speaketh the truth.
 
As noted, the car needs to undergo a pre-purchase inspection performed by a reputable shop that specialized in bimmers. Try www.bimrs.org.

The installation of aftermarket cooling system part is strictly verboten. Get to know www.realoem.com and FCP Euro.
 
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