Blue tape doesn't work - how to fix

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JHZR2

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This was an old error but were trying to get house work done.

When we painted, we put blue tape on the edges of some of the wood. Perhaps my wife did it wrong or too much, I don't know, but the scotch blue masking tape ruined our wood trim. We have a few spots that look like this:

a1a770c5.jpg


be440ac2.jpg


It's really sad to us, so we want to fix it.

I've used shellac on any new finished wood ive worked on. Not sure how to determine what's on certain things or how to fix. There is a ton of exposed wood in the house (trim plus doors), so I want to be very considerate of maintaining how it all looks/matches.

Thanks!
 
You can't blame the Blue tape.

The wood was refinished at one point. Whenever it was redone, there was either still some polish left on the wood and/or the surface was not roughed up enough to give the following layer of polyurethane enough mechanical tooth to bond correctly. So removing the blue tape removed the outermost layer of polyurethane.

Not easy to fix. I wouldn't take that job.

It's all about the prep work. Not done correctly and it will come back and bite you.
 
I blame blue tape for everything lol. I've had little luck with it, paint getting through it, rough paint lines. I use frog tape. As for the fix take the pieces off carefully and take them to lowes or home depot and see what you can find (dont be afraid to ask them for help and refinish it.
 
If it's shellac you would pull some of it up with an alcohol soaked rag. If that's the case it's perfect, clean it up with alcohol and then recoat it with shellac. The new will melt into the old.

Unfortunately I doubt that's the case. I would assume it's poly over shellac or lacquer. Because if it was shellac it wouldn't layer like that (and it definitely wouldn't pull off the wood).

So if it were mine I'd try to strip and refinish it. If the upper layer came off that easily hopefully you can get it all off and then find the correct finish to add a few layers that blend into the first (again shellac is easy and likely, nitrocellulose lacquer would also been of the period of your home but less likely for house trim).
 
Thanks, will try the alcohol rag trick and see if I can verify that it is shellac. Ive used shellac on new wood work that Ive done in the house, and I like the look and application. I probably have a half gallon of it too, so hopefully that will work!
 
Originally Posted By: stxonall8
I blame blue tape for everything lol. I've had little luck with it, paint getting through it, rough paint lines. I use frog tape. As for the fix take the pieces off carefully and take them to lowes or home depot and see what you can find (dont be afraid to ask them for help and refinish it.


Then don't use it!

Personally, I never use masking tape.
Just paint up to the trim, keep a steady hand :-)
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight


Not easy to fix. I wouldn't take that job.

It's all about the prep work. Not done correctly and it will come back and bite you.


Well after I fix the PO's sloppy paint work (getting paint on this trim in some spots), then Ill work on this.

But it looks like to remove that paint (see other thread posted a few minutes before this one), I may be needing to refinish them...

So...

How will it bite me?

All Ive ever done is stain and multi-coat shellac new wood, and it has come out beautiful. But Ive never refinished anything, so dont know what to expect or how doing things wrong will effect it.

Do you think I can re-do it in place? Some of the woodwork is fairly intricate and Id hate to remove it (and damage the plaster while Im at it).

Also, what is the right product to remove polyurethane, if that is likely what was used on a recoat/refinish?

Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: expat
Originally Posted By: stxonall8
I blame blue tape for everything lol. I've had little luck with it, paint getting through it, rough paint lines. I use frog tape. As for the fix take the pieces off carefully and take them to lowes or home depot and see what you can find (dont be afraid to ask them for help and refinish it.


Then don't use it!

Personally, I never use masking tape.
Just paint up to the trim, keep a steady hand :-)


Better be steady. The PO of my home did a pretty sloppy job on some painting, so you get this:


ac4c3409.jpg
 
Do you want to do it right? Or do you want to add to the list of owners who have done a poor quality, botched job?

Assesses the finish on an inconspicuous area, such as a door edge by rubbing it with denatured alcohol. Shellac will come right off. But if the finish softens and doesn't come off, it is water-based polyurethane. If nothing comes up, it is oil-based polyurethane or varnish.

Once you know what you have then you can create a strategy for removing the trim, stripping each piece, and correctly refinishing it. It's a long, arduous process that will take time, dedication and effort. Once you do finish it right, the results will be spectacular.

Or you can try to do what the previous owners have done and cut corners, which hasn't worked out very well so far.
 
You used the WRONG blue tape.
The 3M stuff with the ORANGE cardboard center is for fine finishes, not the white cardboard .
Also, an inferior quick finish can be marred by even the good tape.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Do you want to do it right? Or do you want to add to the list of owners who have done a poor quality, botched job?

Assesses the finish on an inconspicuous area, such as a door edge by rubbing it with denatured alcohol. Shellac will come right off. But if the finish softens and doesn't come off, it is water-based polyurethane. If nothing comes up, it is oil-based polyurethane or varnish.

Once you know what you have then you can create a strategy for removing the trim, stripping each piece, and correctly refinishing it. It's a long, arduous process that will take time, dedication and effort. Once you do finish it right, the results will be spectacular.

Or you can try to do what the previous owners have done and cut corners, which hasn't worked out very well so far.


Would I be asking about how to fix this if I didnt want to do the job right?

I have concerns for the trim and the plaster that I am going to have to lever against. Those are real concerns in an old home. If taping the wall and stripping in place lets me minimize the stress on the wood and prevent it from cracking (there are different kinds of joints in the wood in different spots that I really fear may break because of years and whatever else) may cause damage...

Is that not a bona fide concern?

Im all for doing it right, slowly, methodically, etc. But if i do more damage in the process, what is the benefit?
 
stxonall8: Hi, I am Rachel with ScotchBlue(TM) Painters Tape. We have 3 blue painter's tapes and each one is recommended based on your specific application and can be seen at www.scotchblue.com. If you use any of our products and feel they did not perform as they should please do not hesitate to contact us using the phone number listed in the core of each roll or through our website. Also note, our ScotchBlue(TM) cannot be used on lacquer coated surfaces which is noted in each core of tape. Thanks again!
 
Hi this is Rachel with ScotchBlue(TM) Painter's Tape. It no doubt takes a steady hand to paint by hand and some are better at it than others. We do have ScotchBlue(TM) Painter's Tape for Delicate Surfaces. This is a flat back paper tape, with low adhesion, and is intended for design work such as stripes, and we also expect crisp clean paint lines with it as it is a flat tape. Check out our website at www.scotchblue.com to get the right product for the job. Thanks!
 
Now you've done it, JHZR2. All your belly aching resulted in getting a woman to join BITOG. No more blond jokes for us, I guess!

Hey Rachel, kudos for picking up on a negative response about "blue tape". It's nice to see a caring company. And, welcome to BITOG. Tell us about your oil!
 
Originally Posted By: ScotchBlueBrand
stxonall8: Hi, I am Rachel with ScotchBlue(TM) Painters Tape. We have 3 blue painter's tapes and each one is recommended based on your specific application and can be seen at www.scotchblue.com. If you use any of our products and feel they did not perform as they should please do not hesitate to contact us using the phone number listed in the core of each roll or through our website. Also note, our ScotchBlue(TM) cannot be used on lacquer coated surfaces which is noted in each core of tape. Thanks again!


Hi Rachel, thanks for the commentary on the scotch blue tape! I dont know my finishes too well - I dont think this old house finish was lacquer, and it seems that whomever had recoated it in the past did it wrong. But it sounds like the tape you mentioned in your other post would be optimal, so thanks for the tip!
 
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