Bleeding the hydrolic clutch 90 sunbird.
- Thread starter Rick
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while i dont have any expierence with a sunbird, i can say on mazda rx7 and protege, you bleed it just like you would do your brakes.
Did you need more instruction than what cryptokid gave? Or is the issue you can't find the slave cylinder or maybe it's bleeder screw on this particular car?
Well were it connects to the transmission I do see a small screw But I would like more information on how to properly do this. I want to avoide getting any air in.
So if anyone can provide me with detailed information, much would be appretiated.
So if anyone can provide me with detailed information, much would be appretiated.
Ok, I didn't want to miss something non-standard on the sunbird and look like an idiot replying (well more than usual anyway)
It really helps to have a helper on this job. Helper's task is simple so any girlfriend or wife will do.
Get a length of clear tubing that should fit over the nipple of the bleeder screw. This tube will help you see air in and color of fluid, keep from sucking air back in, and help you hit your collection bottle.
1) top off the fluid reservior and check often to keep from pulling air in.
2) have helper push in clutch and hold it in.
3) under the car with the tube on the bleeder screw,other end in a clear jar, you will see the piston pushed all the way out. Open the screw and let the fluid flow out BUT close off the bleeder before the piston goes all the way back to keep from sucking stuff back in.
4) with the bleeder closed. Helper lets the clutch up and pushes back in again.
5) repeat and repeat again until all air is gone (on a bleed) or you see clear fresh fluid (on a replace or flush). Check reservior often. If you let it run dry you will pull in air and have to start all over bleeding.
If you don't have a helper, you will have to use a piece of 2x4 or something to hold the petal down and keep switching between under the car and in the car. A PAIN.
[ July 14, 2003, 07:44 PM: Message edited by: RussellA ]
It really helps to have a helper on this job. Helper's task is simple so any girlfriend or wife will do.
Get a length of clear tubing that should fit over the nipple of the bleeder screw. This tube will help you see air in and color of fluid, keep from sucking air back in, and help you hit your collection bottle.
1) top off the fluid reservior and check often to keep from pulling air in.
2) have helper push in clutch and hold it in.
3) under the car with the tube on the bleeder screw,other end in a clear jar, you will see the piston pushed all the way out. Open the screw and let the fluid flow out BUT close off the bleeder before the piston goes all the way back to keep from sucking stuff back in.
4) with the bleeder closed. Helper lets the clutch up and pushes back in again.
5) repeat and repeat again until all air is gone (on a bleed) or you see clear fresh fluid (on a replace or flush). Check reservior often. If you let it run dry you will pull in air and have to start all over bleeding.
If you don't have a helper, you will have to use a piece of 2x4 or something to hold the petal down and keep switching between under the car and in the car. A PAIN.
[ July 14, 2003, 07:44 PM: Message edited by: RussellA ]
I would remove the screw before adding any fluid and clean it and coat it with silicone grease.
My book goes on to bleeding without a bleed screw.?????????
Edited version
Remove the actuator cylinder, and loosen but do not remove the master cylinder.
Hold the actuator cylinder vertical pushrod down and below the master cylinder.
Work the pushrod using 0.390'' stokes .
Continue until air bubbles are no longer entering the reservoir.
I never had to do this on my Grand Am. I never even saw either clutch cylinder, they were in a very secluded area under the anti lock brakes. The above is not how I do my old truck. I do it more like RusselA's method
My book goes on to bleeding without a bleed screw.?????????
Edited version
Remove the actuator cylinder, and loosen but do not remove the master cylinder.
Hold the actuator cylinder vertical pushrod down and below the master cylinder.
Work the pushrod using 0.390'' stokes .
Continue until air bubbles are no longer entering the reservoir.
I never had to do this on my Grand Am. I never even saw either clutch cylinder, they were in a very secluded area under the anti lock brakes. The above is not how I do my old truck. I do it more like RusselA's method
What happens if you go too far and use a .391" or even a .400" stroke? I don't think my stroke ability is accurate to 1 thousands of a inch.
That is what the shop manual said. Actually it said ''10 mm (0.390'').''
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