Bleeder screw sealant

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Apr 17, 2012
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West Michigan
Does anybody put any type of thread sealant on their brake bleeders? Typically if I'm installing new calipers I will put whatever grease or antiseize I have on hand on the bleeder threads since I live in the rust belt. Is there a better product? I do have some VERY nice permatex thread sealant, but it sets up over time and isn't designed for multiple tighten/loosen cycles.
 
I use a rubber safe silicone grease (Shin Etsu) on mine, mostly to seal the threads somewhat when I vacuum bleed. Easier to see if you have a clear stream when there are less bubbles from air leaks from the threads.

If you do feel the need to use something to keep them from seizing, I'd only use silicone grease or another rubber safe lubricant. Probably overkill, but brake system rubber doesn't like petroleum products and, being brakes, better safe than sorry.
 
Does anybody put any type of thread sealant on their brake bleeders? Typically if I'm installing new calipers I will put whatever grease or antiseize I have on hand on the bleeder threads since I live in the rust belt. Is there a better product? I do have some VERY nice permatex thread sealant, but it sets up over time and isn't designed for multiple tighten/loosen cycles.
Conical mating surfaces should make for a sufficient seal without threadlocker on the threads. That said, Speed Bleeders come with a blue dry "stuff" on the threads.
 
Does anybody put any type of thread sealant on their brake bleeders? Typically if I'm installing new calipers I will put whatever grease or antiseize I have on hand on the bleeder threads since I live in the rust belt. Is there a better product? I do have some VERY nice permatex thread sealant, but it sets up over time and isn't designed for multiple tighten/loosen cycles.
Bleeder screws do not seal by the threads. I would never apply anything to the threads. If they are not overtightened, there should be no problem getting them loose some day.
 
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What you're looking for is a corrosion inhibitor and not necessarily a sealer, yes?

as others have mentioned, I would go with a small silicone grease, applied as far back from the taper seat to be effective. Be mindful that after some loosening/tightening cycles, whatever is applied to the threads may work its way into the caliper. Not a huge quantity, but it can migrate.
 
Pay attention to the fact that Trav (user on this site whose advice is Golden) LIKED D. Newton3s comment above regarding anti-seize. I apply a small amount of nickel anti-seize, but when & how I apply it is WHEN I'm bleeding brakes anyway, I use rubber hose clamp pliers on the flex hose so as not to force fluid back to the MC (antilock brake modules have non-serviceable filters in them, you do NOT want to force fluid backward thru them), after I have the hose clamp pliers on, I remove the old bleeders completely and force the piston to reseat, then use an old pencil point and carefully put anti-seize on the threads and install speed bleeders. Next time you have to loosen the bleeders you'll thank yourself.
And to any "naysayer" who says not to put anti-seize on bleeder screws, you need to explain how come new speed bleeders COME NEW with anti-seize on them. You can even buy the anti-seize on the speed bleeder website: http://www.speedbleeder.com/install.htm
 
And to any "naysayer" who says not to put anti-seize on bleeder screws, you need to explain how come new speed bleeders COME NEW with anti-seize on them. You can even buy the anti-seize on the speed bleeder website: http://www.speedbleeder.com/install.htm

The stuff on speed bleeders is a red thread sealant, not the copper/nickel anti-seize as you might use on spark plugs.
 
Brake bleeders don't seal on the threads; they seal on the tapered (conical) mating surface.

If anything, you might consider a tiny (very small) bit of anti-seize. But certainly not sealant.
This ^ A little anti seize on the threads only works wonders in the rust belt and it does not migrate into the fluid, do not lather it on just a very light application on the threads only. For those sceptical use a little blue locktite or even a turn of teflon tape. The threads have nothing to do with sealing all you need to do is keep water and moisture out of the threads.
 
The stuff on speed bleeders is a red thread sealant, not the copper/nickel anti-seize as you might use on spark plugs.
You, sir, I daresay, have not looked at speedbleeders.com. The Russell ones come with a red thread sealant, which is not liquid. I've actually done what I posted and I've bled those brakes at least 3 times in the 8 years+ since installing my speed bleeders; and I have them on 5 cars in my family that I regularly service. They haven't seized or rusted, and I live in the Midwest, where they dump hundreds of tons of salt on the roads every winter. The copper/nickel anti-seize you might use on spark plugs won't hurt anything. As others have well stated, bleeders do not seal by the threads, but keeping moisture/rust out of the thread area is only going to help when you eventually need to open the bleeders. Obviously, you want to apply it carefully. See my original post. But I am not your boss, you are free to do as you please. :)
 
You, sir, I daresay, have not looked at speedbleeders.com.

I have a set of speedbleeders I installed and the stuff applied to the threads is red. Appears to be the same type of thread sealant applied to things like oil pressure senders/switches, coolant sensors, etc. from the factory.

This is what they say on their website:

Thread Sealant is Available

The thread sealant is available in 1/2 oz. bottles so that you can replace the sealant that has worn off over time. It comes in a plastic bottle with a brush cap applicator. It is available for $10.00 and can be used in many other situations where a quality pre-applied pipe sealant is required. A little goes a long way. The recommended procedure for applying is as follows:

Clean the Speed Bleeder with soapy water to remove any brake fluid or grease and dry. A hair dryer does this nicely. With the brush cap applicator apply a small amount of thread sealant evenly to the threaded portion of the bleeder screw. (Leave the first 1 1/2 threads uncoated. This makes it easy to start threading into the wheel cylinder or caliper without cross threading.) After it is applied, dry with a hair dryer on high setting for about 1 minute. When cool and dry it is ready for installation.

That does NOT sound like anti-seize to me.

Here is a picture of the thread sealant from another website:

1682199525596.png


Doesn't look like anti-seize, either.

I'm not saying anti-seize won't work to keep the bleeder screws from corroding...

...but it probably won't work to keep the speedbleeder from leaking around the threads, and isn't what they apply to them at the factory, nor what they sell to re-apply the sealant.

I do thank you for linking to that page, though--I've been looking for this type of thread sealer that is solvent-based so it hardens and can be pre-applied to a thread well before installation!
 
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I have a set of speedbleeders I installed and the stuff applied to the threads is red. Appears to be the same type of thread sealant applied to things like oil pressure senders/switches, coolant sensors, etc. from the factory.

This is what they say on their website:



That does NOT sound like anti-seize to me.

Here is a picture of the thread sealant from another website:

View attachment 152086

Doesn't look like anti-seize, either.

I'm not saying anti-seize won't work to keep the bleeder screws from corroding...

...but it probably won't work to keep the speedbleeder from leaking around the threads, and isn't what they apply to them at the factory, nor what they sell to re-apply the sealant.

I do thank you for linking to that page, though--I've been looking for this type of thread sealer that is solvent-based so it hardens and can be pre-applied to a thread well before installation!
(y)Perhaps we're having different perspectives on very similar products. The sealant I purchased awhile back from their site came in a little bottle like that with a brush but the sealant itself was grey. I went out in my garage prior to responding to you and I can't seem to locate it at the moment. Prior to my own discovery of the speed bleeders I used nickel anti-seize for the same purpose. Works just as well, but if they pre-apply solvent based stuff it's much more convenient to use. I'm thrilled someone else uses speed bleeders, they're a real time/labor saver. Do you also use a Motive power bleeder? One man operation!
 
I'm thrilled someone else uses speed bleeders, they're a real time/labor saver.

They are, and you reminded me that I need to order a set for a couple of vehicles that I never installed them on.

Do you also use a Motive power bleeder? One man operation!

Never used that one. Tried the vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight but found that it sucks a lot of air from around the bleeder screw threads.
 
Sealant doesn't mean Loctite.
Some bleeders with a loose fit to the caliper or wheel cylinder will suck air back in using the peddle push method and the bleeder isn't closed at the end of each stroke.
The coated ones prevent that. That's the point of speed bleeders with the coating - one person can do the push pedal method without worrying about sucking air back in.
I'm sure to get flamed 'cause "that's not the right way to do it". Oh well, don't come to my house. Thank you.
 
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