My own results in doing a before/after with the LM product revealed the same - a drop in viscosity/flash point and not much else.
I think you're right - need to do a filter analysis.Not much of a test if they cant test the filter etc. We are talking about larger particles which even the cheapest filter will grab.
I've used it a number of times but have way to validate it - seems legit to me!Thank you for that article. My analytical performance with flushing oil results in cleaner drains at OCI. I am convinced that the Liquimoly engine flush is the real deal and actually does a great job cleaning the engine.
Not surprised by the results. Mild solvent w/high dose of detergents. Won't hurt anything because it's not very aggressive. How could it? I also suspect that people who use these products tend to over maintain their vehicles so the engine internals would be cleaner vs the population as a whole.
My own results in doing a before/after with the LM product revealed the same - a drop in viscosity/flash point and not much else.
Old school Gunk engine flush(and the stuff sold at Jiffy Lube) is basically kerosene and butyl cellosolve. LM is using calcium sulfonate as the detergent along with solvents to soften up sludge.My understanding is detergents are meant to keep things in suspension not provide oil to metal cleaning. Makes sense that a solvent would be used for this application right?
I’m always mystified that with your nearly obsessive use of expensive oils and additives along with your frequent OCIs that you somehow still need a flush, and somehow see that it does anything.I've used it a number of times but have way to validate it - seems legit to me!
Those deposits man...hahahahhaI’m always mystified that with your nearly obsessive use of expensive oils and additives along with your frequent OCIs that you somehow still need a flush, and somehow see that it does anything.
I have a car that’s nearly always had good full synthetic in it for nearly 200k and it developed a tick ( probably lifter) I decided to just do a quick 5 min flush and see if it helped. used minute clinic from Walmart and it did stop the tick. Hasn’t done it for a month now and before that it had been doing it for several months. Wish I did it sooner. I visually sampled the oil before and after and the after was much much darker. In fact the before, just as has always been the case when dumping the oil, was just barely brownish. The after was dark brown. The color of the flush was not dark. For those 2 reasons, the lifter tick fix and significant difference in color after 5 minutes of flushing, I conclude that “high quality synthetics” also leave deposits. So a flush every once in a while seems like a reasonable and worthwhile thing to do in some cases.I’m always mystified that with your nearly obsessive use of expensive oils and additives along with your frequent OCIs that you somehow still need a flush, and somehow see that it does anything.
That's true. No matter how good the oil is, deposits will find its way to the crankcase. I used LM flush a couple of times in a cheap fresh oil just to see how dark it might turn, I was actually doubtful LM flush will do anything, but I was wrong. First drain was very dark in just 10 minutes of idling, second one drained like it went in.Well with any engine, and especially GDI engines, fuel will get in the oil. The fuel contains impurities and by products from combustion will eventually stick the metal no matter how good the oil. Only very frequent changes which are probably pretty wasteful would guarantee no buildup whatsoever and even then, who knows, it might still naturally form deposits.
Detergents remove deposits. Dispersants keep these deposits in suspension.My understanding is detergents are meant to keep things in suspension not provide oil to metal cleaning. Makes sense that a solvent would be used for this application right?
Detergents prevent deposits from adhering to surfaces and keep them in suspension while dispersants prevent them from agglomerating, so that they can stay in suspension. Detergents are not designed to remove existing deposits, for that you have to use something polar, like an ester, or a solvent.Detergents remove deposits. Dispersants keep these deposits in suspension.
Lovely, so all these years I've been misinformed... Live and learn, right?Detergents prevent deposits from adhering to surfaces and keep them in suspension while dispersants prevent them from agglomerating, so that they can stay in suspension. Detergents are not designed to remove existing deposits, for that you have to use something polar, like an ester, or a solvent.
It happens. People see the word "detergent" and tend to think that it's like a Mr. Clean magic eraser in your engine.Lovely, so all these years I've been misinformed... Live and learn, right?