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Yup, they are basic compounds and the source of TBN.Detergents second role is to neutralize acids …
Yup, they are basic compounds and the source of TBN.Detergents second role is to neutralize acids …
I put a couple of those in the food processor and poured them in the engine. Should I get a UOA? Flush?It happens. People see the word "detergent" and tend to think that it's like a Mr. Clean magic eraser in your engine.
We just think there’s TBN in PVL - look at thisYup, they are basic compounds and the source of TBN.
Now that's some serious TBN!!We just think there’s TBN in PVL - look at this
https://pdfgenerator-west.exxonmobi...S/Marine/pdsdownload/GL-XX-Mobilgard-5100?p=1
So, can we say that you are "vouching" for the LiquiMoly engine flush? As someone that has had an interest in BG EPR (that's Engine Performance Restore)... you've flushed out the Audi it seems? Can you "notice" anything on the butt dyno or with the ear?I've used it a number of times but have way to validate it - seems legit to me!
Sure, I'll vouch for it but the issue is...what am I actually vouching for? I can vouch that it has done no harm to my engine. I can also share that my engine was spotless inside when it was partially apart recently which may or may not have anything do to with the 1) LM engine flush 2) HPL engine cleaner and 3) the oil I've used hahahaa. I notice nothing different the times I've used it w/r to sound or power. My honest feeling is this - using this product simply gives you a more thorough drain and may loosen up a few things on the way out. Based on some videos I've seen showing minor compression improvement after use I think it *can* remove deposits from the piston rings which would be my primary concern. I'll continue to use it for the $10 it costs a few times a year.So, can we say that you are "vouching" for the LiquiMoly engine flush? As someone that has had an interest in BG EPR (that's Engine Performance Restore)... you've flushed out the Audi it seems? Can you "notice" anything on the butt dyno or with the ear?
I'm thinking you let it idle 10 minutes engine hot before draining, your application?Sure, I'll vouch for it but the issue is...what am I actually vouching for? I can vouch that it has done no harm to my engine. I can also share that my engine was spotless inside when it was partially apart recently which may or may not have anything do to with the 1) LM engine flush 2) HPL engine cleaner and 3) the oil I've used hahahaa. I notice nothing different the times I've used it w/r to sound or power. My honest feeling is this - using this product simply gives you a more thorough drain and may loosen up a few things on the way out. Based on some videos I've seen showing minor compression improvement after use I think it *can* remove deposits from the piston rings which would be my primary concern. I'll continue to use it for the $10 it costs a few times a year.
I've never seen any figure that high before. Curious, if these concentrations of detergents and more specifically, dispersents allow any ZDDP tribofilm formation at all?Now that's some serious TBN!!
Some feel they are a waste of money on a reasonably well maintained engine. I'm in that camp. There are places for traditional cleaner/flush type products when dealing with a neglected engine, but using them on one that's been well maintained is simply mental masturbation, you are doing to because it "feels" potentially beneficial, not because there's any real tangible benefit.I'm thinking you let it idle 10 minutes engine hot before draining, your application?
I also agree with you, if we are saying it didn't hurt that's a pretty good baseline.
Some feel engine flushes kill engines.
It's for a 2-stroke marine diesel, seems to be optimized for mitigating corrosion (according to the description). Note that it's also a straight SAE 50.I've never seen any figure that high before. Curious, if these concentrations of detergents and more specifically, dispersents allow any ZDDP tribofilm formation at all?
Maybe a formulation for silver-containing bearings? Relying on other AWs?
It's just a prevailing notion with no factual basis. Follow the instructions - LM isn't in business by ruining folks' engines. I let it idle (already warmed up when I add it) for 15 min (they say 10-15) and drain it.I'm thinking you let it idle 10 minutes engine hot before draining, your application?
I also agree with you, if we are saying it didn't hurt that's a pretty good baseline.
Some feel engine flushes kill engines.
So basically most of BITOG w/r to which oil they run when ST will do just as well for most of the cars folks are driving here.simply mental masturbation, you are doing to because it "feels" potentially beneficial, not because there's any real tangible benefit.
Each for the proper application. I do not use ST oil in my Tiguan nor did I use it in my BMW - just as you don’t in your cars either.So basically most of BITOG w/r to which oil they run when ST will do just as well for most of the cars folks are driving here.
that can be true only when doing very short oci. (vague term)Some feel they are a waste of money on a reasonably well maintained engine. I'm in that camp. There are places for traditional cleaner/flush type products when dealing with a neglected engine, but using them on one that's been well maintained is simply mental masturbation, you are doing to because it "feels" potentially beneficial, not because there's any real tangible benefit.
What are the cleaners in oil?the standard cleaners in oil are just to keep things tidy after himself.
too weak to make wholehouse cleaning effect.
forums are full of people complaining about oil consumption, just after few years ownership.
I figured that went without saying - no Euro ST. I use ST in 2 of my cars where it fits the application (Ford/Lexus).Each for the proper application. I do not use ST oil in my Tiguan nor did I use it in my BMW - just as you don’t in your cars either.
Sure, if it has the approvals for the application, unless somebody plans on racking up serious miles, at which point a more premium oil may have some actual tangible benefit, Supertech is typically "adequate".So basically most of BITOG w/r to which oil they run when ST will do just as well for most of the cars folks are driving here.
If the consumption is the result of wear, flushes aren't going to help.that can be true only when doing very short oci. (vague term)
new oils are even less saps, i personally i am pesimistic about their cleaning power.
new engines are squeezed more for eficiency and power, turbos etc... more heat...making things worse.
the standard cleaners in oil are just to keep things tidy after himself.
too weak to make wholehouse cleaning effect.
forums are full of people complaining about oil consumption, just after few years ownership.
we can guess the piston + rings are gunk deep roasted as hell.
ha! and why it wears (and sludges) in the first place?If the consumption is the result of wear, flushes aren't going to help.
And yes, detergents + dispersants are designed to keep things clean, not clean-up deposits. If you already have deposits, well, then you were either not using a lube of sufficient quality, not changing it frequently enough, or both.