Black Magic Spray Wax. Where is the wax?
- Thread starter JRoDDz
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I'm not a huge fan of over the counter detailers. I knew from a long time ago the "wax" content was just zero to nil. And that it's mostly water. I personally make my own and am more than happy with it's looks and non-scratching properties. And the fact that I know it has wax in it.
Yeah I will but if only on the stipulation that you not try to make money on it and also distribute it freely.
One of the the ingredients is getting harder to find, but you need
http://www.amazon.com/ArmorAll-20150-Wax-Dry-Gel/dp/B000A81BT6
Armor All Wax-it-dry gel
Armor All original protectant, more as a lubricant than anything for protection.
Zymol cleaner wax, it's one of the few non-solvent water-soluble waxes out there plus it looks good.
Mix 4 ounces Zymol, 4 ounces Wax-it-dry gel, 2 ounces armor all. Mix it up well. This is the concentrate. You mix the concentrate with up to a gallon of distilled water I usually mix it with 3 quarts of water though for more concentration for cooler weather. Hot weather I'll mix the full gallon so you can spray more to cool off the panel. You can experiment with the concentration. Be sure to shake well before and occasionally during use. The more concentrated you make it the more shaking is required and it can make buffing off to a shine a little more difficult. Don't use for claying.
One of the the ingredients is getting harder to find, but you need
http://www.amazon.com/ArmorAll-20150-Wax-Dry-Gel/dp/B000A81BT6
Armor All Wax-it-dry gel
Armor All original protectant, more as a lubricant than anything for protection.
Zymol cleaner wax, it's one of the few non-solvent water-soluble waxes out there plus it looks good.
Mix 4 ounces Zymol, 4 ounces Wax-it-dry gel, 2 ounces armor all. Mix it up well. This is the concentrate. You mix the concentrate with up to a gallon of distilled water I usually mix it with 3 quarts of water though for more concentration for cooler weather. Hot weather I'll mix the full gallon so you can spray more to cool off the panel. You can experiment with the concentration. Be sure to shake well before and occasionally during use. The more concentrated you make it the more shaking is required and it can make buffing off to a shine a little more difficult. Don't use for claying.
I've tried all of them, and can tell you none can beat the waxing ability, cleaning ability, durability, and less scratching characteristics of that formula. I make it for friends and family and they keep telling me I should start selling it again. But I don't have time to market it because of all the other snake oils out there that have others convinced of their superiority. I also hate that almost all the detailers have alcohol in them, it's just asking to strip whatever wax is on the paint and replace it with it's weak protectant. In fact when I used otc detailers I generally realized a reduction in the life of my waxings.
Look at it this way I used this stuff on my truck in connecticut winters and rainy summers. I used this stuff and literally didn't wash or wax my car for two years. Just dusted and sprayed and buffed, after a rain I'd spray and dry it. Very little damage was done to the paint, about as much as as going through a brushed car wash a few times. And that's over two years of just detailing. All you have to do is wash, polish and wax once and then keep up the detailing at least every week or so, at most two weeks.
I'm not twisting anyone's arm over this and this is BITOG. I'm sure someone else will mix this up and report back on it. So far I've never had a complaint. And I used to sell this formula to used car dealerships to keep their lots clean and super shiny with minimal effort. A regular car takes about 10-15 minutes to do.
Look at it this way I used this stuff on my truck in connecticut winters and rainy summers. I used this stuff and literally didn't wash or wax my car for two years. Just dusted and sprayed and buffed, after a rain I'd spray and dry it. Very little damage was done to the paint, about as much as as going through a brushed car wash a few times. And that's over two years of just detailing. All you have to do is wash, polish and wax once and then keep up the detailing at least every week or so, at most two weeks.
I'm not twisting anyone's arm over this and this is BITOG. I'm sure someone else will mix this up and report back on it. So far I've never had a complaint. And I used to sell this formula to used car dealerships to keep their lots clean and super shiny with minimal effort. A regular car takes about 10-15 minutes to do.
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So qwertydude, how do you do it? You wash the car like normal, dry it, and then spray on the wax, rub it on, then buff it off?
I haven't even done that. Back in connecticut I used to just wait for it to rain to wash off the big dirt and then just sprayed generously wiped with a clean microfiber, turning the cloth often to use a clean side then buffed off the residue haze. If the haze didn't buff off then I simply rewaxed. Over here in southern california since it doesn't rain all I do is dust with a car duster, spray, wipe and buff. If you do this often enough before tons of dirt builds up you don't really have to wash your car.
If your car isn't clean and waxed, I suggest washing, claying, polishing and using a pure wax like collinite. Then thereafter you just keep using my detailer and you'll be good. I tended to get some swirls and bonded contaminants after 6 months or so (not nearly as badly as if I just washed for the 6 months) and so clayed, polished, and waxed again but not washed. I know what you're thinking, you need to wash before polishing but lots of professional mobile detailers use optimum no rinse which is a rinseless wash, which when diluted has less lubricants than this detailer. I've noticed no more damage to my finish than optimum no rinse.
If your car isn't clean and waxed, I suggest washing, claying, polishing and using a pure wax like collinite. Then thereafter you just keep using my detailer and you'll be good. I tended to get some swirls and bonded contaminants after 6 months or so (not nearly as badly as if I just washed for the 6 months) and so clayed, polished, and waxed again but not washed. I know what you're thinking, you need to wash before polishing but lots of professional mobile detailers use optimum no rinse which is a rinseless wash, which when diluted has less lubricants than this detailer. I've noticed no more damage to my finish than optimum no rinse.
I've been using the Buffalo Milke instant spray wax. It always has a layer of white stuff floating at the top of the bottle before you shake it. I think that may be the wax part. I'm told it contains no silicones and is a paraffin wax product. I know it works great for me. I use it on chrome, paint, glass etc.
Now that I look at my mix I find it strange because I use 2 different wax bases. The zymol which is primarily carnauba sinks and the turtle wax booster seems to float. Of course that's not counting the dissolved wax inbetween.
MolaKule
Staff member
Many so-called waxes these days are really synthesized polymers or specialized water soluble esters and the surfactant is the agent allows the polymers or esters to spread; the alcohol makes the polymers dry faster.
I like many still like the looks of a good Carnauba wax shine:
From Wiki:
Composition
Carnauba wax contains mainly esters of fatty acids (80-85%), fatty alcohols (10-16%), acids (3-6%) and hydrocarbons (1-3%). Specific for carnauba wax is the content of esterified fatty diols (about 20%), hydroxylated fatty acids (about 6%) and cinnamic acid (about 10%). Cinnamic acid, an antioxidant, may be hydroxylated or methoxylated.
Uses
Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, food products such as candy corn, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax. It is used as a coating on dental floss. Use for paper coatings is the most common application in the United States. It is the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil.
IMHO, I think Mother's products are the best detailing value out there.
I like many still like the looks of a good Carnauba wax shine:
From Wiki:
Composition
Carnauba wax contains mainly esters of fatty acids (80-85%), fatty alcohols (10-16%), acids (3-6%) and hydrocarbons (1-3%). Specific for carnauba wax is the content of esterified fatty diols (about 20%), hydroxylated fatty acids (about 6%) and cinnamic acid (about 10%). Cinnamic acid, an antioxidant, may be hydroxylated or methoxylated.
Uses
Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, food products such as candy corn, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax. It is used as a coating on dental floss. Use for paper coatings is the most common application in the United States. It is the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil.
IMHO, I think Mother's products are the best detailing value out there.
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