Black Car Owners

Status
Not open for further replies.
quote:

Originally posted by ShortBuSX:
Well I guess its just my car
pat.gif
banghead.gif


Any tips or suggestions on maintaining a finish without clearcoat? I mean like how does it vary from clearcoat, is there any specific tricks or things to avoid? I guess what Im trying to say is how does paint care differ between the two finish types?


Your basic maintenance regimen shouldn't be much different if the single stage paint job is pretty recent. The same shampoos, mitts, detail sprays and waxes should work just fine on both paint types.

I think what you'll notice is a more significant drop off in the shine and luster of single stage paint over time when compared to a clearcoat paint job, even with regular care. The clearcoats seem to maintain their gloss better over a period of time and washes.

When I owned a car with black single stage paint, I'd notice a gradual dullness after a few washes, like the paint didn't quite sparkle as it did after I waxed it. A quick buff with a good cleaner wax and all was well. This was probably the paint oxidizing slightly over time. Clearcoat paint jobs don't seem to show this tendancy for the most part, at least not as much.

Specific tricks? Well, use a mild shampoo and a super soft mitt when washing. If you plan to change or add a new polish to your inventory, see if you can get a sample first and try it to determine if it works for you or not. You might have to wax more often to keep the paint looking sharp, so be careful when choosing new products.
 
For me, the biggest problem is created by my hard water rinse. If I let it airdry... spots. It also streaks when drying the car.

I take the nozzle off the hose and try to let as much water sheet off as possible.

I then go over streaked/spotted areas with a cream cleaner wax; Wipe on - Wipe off. I will be trying some Optimum Spray Wax, which sounds promising to me.

Patman - I'm coveting that Vette! Have you ever tried NXT spray wax without the buffer? Just curious since I don't one (Vette or buffer).
 
I just ordered an inline water softener for my hose... ~$70.

I'll give it a whirl as soom as it comes in. Let me know if anyone is interested in a review.
 
quote:

Originally posted by oily boyd:



Patman - I'm coveting that Vette! Have you ever tried NXT spray wax without the buffer? Just curious since I don't one (Vette or buffer).


I've never tried the spray wax on it, so far the only two things I've used on it are NXT Tech Wax liquid, and the old formula Zaino Z2.
 
quote:

Originally posted by oily boyd:
I just ordered an inline water softener for my hose... ~$70.

I'll give it a whirl as soom as it comes in. Let me know if anyone is interested in a review.


I'm interested!!!
 
Use a lambs wool wash mit and high end car soap such as Griots, 1Z Perls or even Meguiars otc. Rinse car first with hose before washing. Dry with microfiber waffle weave. I use Klasse AIO/SG for protection and top with Souveran or Nattys Blue. My black Suburban is two year old with NO swirls or cleaning marks.
 
1. Washed (Optimum No Rinse and shine) and dry with WW MF.
2. Clayed using Magic Clay "fine" and Blue Mist Final Wipe as Lube
3. Optimum Compound with Lake county white pads (using Makita 9227C rotary-1200 rpms)
4. Jeffs Werkstatt Prime Strong (4 hours dwell, then wipe off by hand with MF towel); used about 1 oz. Long dwell due to my 8-month old having a melt down!!!!!!
5. Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger; 2 coats WOWO then site 15 hours for coat 3; (used about 0.75 oz)
**I LOVE Jeffs stuff
6. ClearKote Quik Shine on windows

That is for body only.

Not to bad for over 100K miles in the Northeast.

 -


 -
 
I have a black Mazda 6 that I just got back from the body shop having the hood/fenders/bumper repainted due to some rock chips, there seems to be something on the OEM paint that is going to require clay to remove, it almost seems like overspray but the shop insists its not. Last time I clayed a black car it was my 2002 Grand Am and the clay left some residue or something on the paint and I had to have the car professionally buffed to remedy the problem. How can I clay the car without that type of residue? And if anyone knows, what is that residue?
 
Can't say it applies to all finishes but.....

on the Chevy clear-coated Summit White pick-em-up I learned to not buff the dried sealant with a micro-fiber towell.

Seemed to cause some "scratching" or marks or whatever.

I use the micro-fiber to dry the critter but when it's time to buff off residue a soft cotton towell seems to work better and doesn't leave those marks that show up when light reflects at certain angles.

Gotta' agree with the chaps advocating a soft-as-an-old-coot's-derriere lamb's wool washing mitt. Don't press too hard, embedded crud can cause small light scratches. Rub gently. Tenderly. Shun passion, at least upon the paint.
 
-I use Duragloss not only does it look awesome but it will last for a year or more depending on how much it is exposed to the elements.
Here is a link to photos of my car with DG on it. Click on picture to enlarge.

http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q112/...ser_id=31321935

After you have it polished and waxed you need to know how to wash a Black car or you will have more swirls.
Here is the proper way to wash without inducing swirls.

Supplies:

-car wash soap with high lubricity
-high quality sheepskin wash mitts
-foam gun
-2 buckets with grit guards for paint
-1 bucket and mitt for wheels
-high quality microfiber towels
-210+ mph electric leaf blower
-high quality sealant and/or wax
-quick detailer

Method:

-wash wheels/tires/wells first to prevent spotting on paint and glass

-Don't use the same mitt or bucket for wheels that you use on your paint. The brake dust, etc. from your wheels will cause scratches and swirls in your paint.

-using foam gun, cover vehicle in a thick layer of foam

-Use two buckets for washing paint. One with a soapy mixture, the other with plain water to rinse the mitt between panels.

-Never use circular motions. Always wash, dry, and wax using front to back and top to bottom motions.

-when vehicle is fully cleaned, allow a slow, steady stream of water to flow over each panel...sheeting the majority of the water off

-use the leaf blower to blow all water from flat surfaces, mirrors, lights, etc.

-remove any remaining water with a waffle weave drying towel and detail spray

*The less you touch the paint, the less chance of marring*

Keeping a good sealant and/or wax on the paint will assist in cleaning and reduce chances of marring.
__________________
 
Black Bart, what type of car wash soap do you recommend that has high lubricity? I'm using Meguiar's Deep Crystal.
 
Patman two of my favorites are Duragloss 901 concentrated car wash. Poorboy's Super Slick Suds Car Soap.
I will not use a sponge to wash and never use a chamois or absorber they can cause serious scratches.
I see you are using NXT I tried it when it first came out and I thought that it looked good but after the first wash the look was gone. Yea it still shines but the look is gone.
I then used Pinnacle Souveran for about two years and it looks even better than NXT on BLACK but like all carnuba products it did not last although it will last longer than NXT. I now use the Duragloss line of products not only do they look good but they are very durable and cost just a fraction of what I was paying for the PS.
 
That is what frustrates me about NXT, it looks great, but needs to be redone every couple of weeks. In the summer it's not too bad, as I don't mind waxing it that often, but in the cooler months I obviously can't.

What other car wash soaps do you like that might be more commonly available? Neither of those are up here.
 
I have not used it but a lot of people say they like the NXT soap. You may find this link interesting.
http://www.detailcity.org/forums/car-wash-soap/
The Duragloss soap is only about 6 bucks and they have a flat rate shipping charge of $ 4.95 one bottle or a case all the same shipping so I order my soap polish sealants QD all at once that way I only have about 50 cents in a item.
You can check it out at www.Duragloss.com
You can put the Aqua wax on over anything even a carnuba. It is as easy to use as a QD but will last for a couple of months. It is designed to boost their 105 sealant after a wash but you can spray it on a dry car just use it really thin because it is concentrated and without water to dilute it you can spread it really thin. AW is one of the best kept secrets in detailing once you try it you will never stop using it. I buy it by the gallon. I had a friend come to my house this past summer and he had just detailed his car I put a little AW on over his fresh wax job and he said what the #@$%! did you put on my car the difference was very easy to see. PAT I know their is a lot of hype about detailing products but do yourself a favor and try it you won't regret it.
 
Wow, people still use soap to wash?? LOL

Use QEW or ONR and be done quicker and more shine.

For detailcity.com, they are behind the times.
 
I use Meguiars products...Gold Class for top coat, Scratch-X and Deep Crystal System Polish for pre-wax polish and scratch removal, Clay bar and Quik Detailer for deposit removal and paint cleaning. I do everythign by hand, although I want to get a PC orbital to speed things up.

The Meguiars detail forums are excellent for tips on how to use their products.

Here's the result:
CopyofDSCF0665.jpg
 
for the original question, I have a '02 black camaro ss, with paint that scratches very easy and a MF'er to keep clean. Had a black '99 camaro before that. I've found that the best recipe is to get the car clean via washing with decent car soap and water and getting any contaminants embedded on the paint off with a claybar or solvent. Then do a final wash and very good rinse immediately followed by getting the car in a clean, dust free garage and dried quickly so it doesn't spot. The most important thing is getting the car clean and keeping it clean! I think that's more important than trying to remove any scratches. You need a good garage that doesn't have dirty airflow or at least give you time to do your thing. Once it's clean, then use any brand polish but the correct one for your paint's condition to get out imperfections. If you have a strong will and stamina you can win the swirl & scratch war by hand with good foam applicators but you will be better off spending $200-250 on a porter cable orbital and the necessary foam pads. If you're serious about a showcar shine on a black car, don't get anything else to you buy a porter cable orbital and the necessary foam pads! And microfiber towels! The 100% cotton towel is 20th century methods. Black car, showcar shine, requires microfiber towels. Once you start polishing you'll be the one putting the most visible scratches back into it buffing off polish and sealant/wax. Aside from cleanliness, prep work is key before any coats of wax for a good shine! Once you have the clearcoat polished as scratch free as possible nothing beats a good oily glaze for a deep wet shine which also hides a lot. I've used meguiars #7 showcar glaze and was very happy with it, and I hear good things about vanilla moose. I've been using natty's poorboys yellow wax, and recently their blue wax, and those are very nice, no streaks. It lasts quite well too. The catch-22 of course is the nicer and wetter the shine the shorter it tends to last, especially with waxes and glazes versus sealants. I've also used IBIZ wax, they're out of tampa FL I think. That stuff left a real good wet look, and had decent fillers which hid a lot but it would streak like a mofo and was very hard to get a streak free shine, needed lots of detailer spray to buff it out, and after 2-3 washes the bling was gone. best of luck. my car looks better than patman's but that's only because it's a camaro
tongue.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom