Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber Spray - Safe?

[john_pifer]

Seems to be a great way to get rid of carbon deposits, especially from the nooks and crannies where it's hard to reach with a patch. Yesterday I cleaned the chamber lug area of the new AR-15 this way - just sprayed down with Hoppe's Elite foaming cleaner, scrubbed with an old toothbrush, and then hosed it out with the Gun Scrubber. What I was a little concerned about was the anodized aluminum finish of the upper. But it didn't seem to affect it. I looked up the MSDS, and it's composed of about 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30% hexane, which Wiki states is a "relatively safe, largely nonreactive solvent": https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/getattach...l-2010.pdf.aspx https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexane I also used the same method on the Dan Wesson Heritage 1911 - soaked inside of slide and frame with the Hoppe's Elite foaming cleaner, toothbrush to knock all the carbon loose, then hosed out with the Gun Scrubber. Again, I was a little concerned that it might discolor the matte stainless finish of the frame, but it didn't. I did remove the G10 grips first. I sprayed into the extractor (it's never been apart) and quite a bit of crud came out. Anything wrong with doing that? Another thing - I have read in a few places on here where people said that non-chlorinated brake cleaner "is the same thing as Gun Scrubber". Well, I looked up the MSDS for a popular aerosol brake cleaner - CRC Brakleen, and it is definitely NOT the same thing as Gun Scrubber. While Gun Scrubber is mostly isopropyl alcohol (very mild solvent) with some hexane (mild petroleum distillate solvent), CRC Brakleen contains quite a few other ingredients, the most troubling of which are toluene (10-20%) and acetone (5-15%), which I know to be strong solvents. Brakleen's main constituent is methyl alcohol, which is definitely stronger and more harsh than isopropyl alcohol. CRC Brakleen MSDS: http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/5088.pdf So, any gun finishes the BC Gun Scrubber spray wouldn't be safe for? What about, for example, the high-polish blueing on my Browning Hi Power?

 

[billt460]

The biggest problem that I've found with products like "Gun Scrubber" and aerosol brake cleaners and the like, is they act like a refrigerant. They can and will reduce the temperature of the metal they are being used on, to the point of causing it to frost up. In a humid climate with a high dew point this can cause condensation to form on the internals of a gun where it can't be wiped off. Rust is most always the result. Try spraying a blast of it on your finger, and you'll quickly see what I mean. I much prefer to use clean Kerosene and a small paint brush, along with toothbrushes to wash out dirt from weapons. Then blow dry with compressed air. Kerosene is basically a very light oil that can easily be blown completely dry. And without chilling the metal it comes in contact with. It's a much better solvent than Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner, which is, as you mentioned mostly alcohol. The purpose of any of these type of products, is to flush dirt out of a weapon. And an oil based product will not create an environment for condensation and rust to form.

 

[SZR48207]

I've used gun scrubber on most finishes with no issues. However, it is fairly expensive for what it is, so I reserve it for nooks and crannies like the chamber of an AR15 like you mentioned. It has no effect on anodizing except that it leaves it chalky dry. So I wouldn't see myself using it to spray down the outside of a blued $4K O/U shotgun.. an oiled rag would be more than adequate for such a case. I've even used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean guns in the past -- no issues as long as you reoil everything after.

 

[ChiTDI]

Not safe on some camo covering.

 

[Toros]

I use the cheapest non chlorinated brake cleaner I can find on all!of my guns... even the play ones. No problem.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

In sprays, I use Hoppes Elite foam (with a brush) and Ballistol aerosol for the nooks & crannies. Do not own a AR-15.

 

[john_pifer]

Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en

In sprays, I use Hoppes Elite foam (with a brush) and Ballistol aerosol for the nooks & crannies. Do not own a AR-15.

Yeah, I’ve actually had a bottle of the Hoppe’s Elite Foam for a while but only just used for the first time this past weekend. Sprayed it inside my Dan Wesson 1911 Slide, on all the carbon residue. Then scrubbed with an old toothbrush and then rinsed out with the BC Gun Scrubber. Worked great. That Elite Foam has almost a bubblegum scent. Slightly similar to good ole #9.

 

[bubbatime]

Since we are talking about AR15 platform rifles, if it has a "mil-spec" style upper, it will be coated on the inside with a grey dry film coating. This is part of the "mil-spec". I have learned over the years that brake cleaner, and other harsh cleaning chemicals, such as gun scrubber, will damage the dry film coating and remove it. I no longer use or recommend a heavy duty cleaner on AR uppers. And for those that had no clue that most AR uppers come with a grey dry lube finish applied, this is what BCM has to say about it: "Dry Film Lube One of the most common questions/concerns/complaints we get on the BCM upper receiver is the interior finish. Some folks think its unfinished anodizing, or worn finish, or some type of problem. What you are seeing is a dry film lube and it’s a good thing. Many commercial upper receivers may skip that step as it is a cost savings, and most folks would not notice the difference. But Uncle Sam wants it on there, and so does BCM. The dry film lube is a grayish milky type finish. It is sprayed on the interior after the hard coat anodizing is applied. It is then baked into the receiver for about 45 minutes at 250 degrees. The dry film lube is just what it sounds like. It adds lubricity to the interior of the receiver where the bolt group and charging handle travel. It’s a good thing."

 

[billt460]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

And for those that had no clue that most AR uppers come with a grey dry lube finish applied, this is what BCM has to say about it: "Dry Film Lube One of the most common questions/concerns/complaints we get on the BCM upper receiver is the interior finish. Some folks think its unfinished anodizing, or worn finish, or some type of problem. What you are seeing is a dry film lube and it’s a good thing. Many commercial upper receivers may skip that step as it is a cost savings, and most folks would not notice the difference. But Uncle Sam wants it on there, and so does BCM. The dry film lube is a grayish milky type finish. It is sprayed on the interior after the hard coat anodizing is applied. It is then baked into the receiver for about 45 minutes at 250 degrees. The dry film lube is just what it sounds like. It adds lubricity to the interior of the receiver where the bolt group and charging handle travel. It’s a good thing."

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

....Dry lube on guns is pretty much a no-no these days. It WAS a recommendation 25 years ago, but those days are behind us for the most part.

????????

 

[Toros]

Originally Posted By: Toros

I use the cheapest non chlorinated brake cleaner I can find on all!of my guns... even the plastic ones. No problem.

 

[john_pifer]

Originally Posted By: billt460

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

And for those that had no clue that most AR uppers come with a grey dry lube finish applied, this is what BCM has to say about it: "Dry Film Lube One of the most common questions/concerns/complaints we get on the BCM upper receiver is the interior finish. Some folks think its unfinished anodizing, or worn finish, or some type of problem. What you are seeing is a dry film lube and it’s a good thing. Many commercial upper receivers may skip that step as it is a cost savings, and most folks would not notice the difference. But Uncle Sam wants it on there, and so does BCM. The dry film lube is a grayish milky type finish. It is sprayed on the interior after the hard coat anodizing is applied. It is then baked into the receiver for about 45 minutes at 250 degrees. The dry film lube is just what it sounds like. It adds lubricity to the interior of the receiver where the bolt group and charging handle travel. It’s a good thing."

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

....Dry lube on guns is pretty much a no-no these days. It WAS a recommendation 25 years ago, but those days are behind us for the most part.

????????

LOL

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: billt460

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

And for those that had no clue that most AR uppers come with a grey dry lube finish applied, this is what BCM has to say about it: "Dry Film Lube One of the most common questions/concerns/complaints we get on the BCM upper receiver is the interior finish. Some folks think its unfinished anodizing, or worn finish, or some type of problem. What you are seeing is a dry film lube and it’s a good thing. Many commercial upper receivers may skip that step as it is a cost savings, and most folks would not notice the difference. But Uncle Sam wants it on there, and so does BCM. The dry film lube is a grayish milky type finish. It is sprayed on the interior after the hard coat anodizing is applied. It is then baked into the receiver for about 45 minutes at 250 degrees. The dry film lube is just what it sounds like. It adds lubricity to the interior of the receiver where the bolt group and charging handle travel. It’s a good thing."

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

....Dry lube on guns is pretty much a no-no these days. It WAS a recommendation 25 years ago, but those days are behind us for the most part.

????????

You don't know the difference between a dry film, baked on coating, called for in the specifications, to that of a dry lube, such as powdered graphite? Ok.