Better full synthetic than syntec

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I am looking to see if there is a better oil than syntec. I have been using syntec for a few OCIs and its been ok, however seems to thin a bit between changes. And the bottle does't seem to say much about what it has to offer, only that its castrols finest and beats other conventional oil and blends. Is there a better full synthetic oil that would be more shear resitant and good on reducing wear. I tried M1 awhile back but my engine was alot noisier. My car does not like Amsoil either. I was looking at PP, or Valvoline synpower, however I do not know enough about them to know if they are any better than syntec. Please advise. Thanks

Info 1999 Olds cutlass 3100 (yes gaskets were done). 95% highway 5% city driving. usually no short trips ,3K OCI, Always idle warmed up before driving due to my piston slap. No known other issues.
 
quote:

Originally posted by HACCOFFICER:
Info 1999 Olds cutlass 3100 (yes gaskets were done). 95% highway 5% city driving. usually no short trips ,3K OCI, Always idle warmed up before driving due to my piston slap. No known other issues.

With 95% highway and 3k oci, your BEST oil to use is a conventional oil.

There is NO difference in wear between Syn and Conventional in a 3k oci.

Go look in the UOA forum and you'll see tons of low to no wear reports using good old Pennzoil, Chevron, Valovine, etc.
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Using syn is a waste of $$ IMO..

Your Syntec can go easy 7500 miles with your engine and driving.

quote:

I have been using syntec for a few OCIs and its been ok, however seems to thin a bit between changes.

Have you done a UOA?

Take care, Bill
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IS PP Group III?

"With 95% highway and 3k oci, your BEST oil to use is a conventional oil."

I know conventional would work well, Syn gives me piece of mind, which as much as I worry, its a good thing.
 
Which Syntec were you running? If you want a synthetic that is a more shear-stable, give Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (a.k.a., "German Castrol" or "GC") a try.

With that said, I agree with the other posters that said that all you need is a conventional oil. 3k with 95% highway driving is a piece of cake for a good-quality conventional oil.
 
Why not go with Supertech synthetic for such a short change interval? If money is of no concern to you then Castrol syntec or chevron synthetic will suit you very well. Sounds like you have an active imagination and no UOA data.
 
I ran Syntec 5w-30 for 7600 mi with 4mi one way commutes for 4K of those miles and a cross country drive on the other 3.5K and got amazing UOA. In a 350Z with some pretty hard driving.Id get one done (a UOA) with the Syntec to see where you stand. I feel its an outstanding oil and too underrated.
 
On what basis do you decide syn thins w/o a UOA? If anything they thin less than comparable dino grades.

I don't see a posted UOA by you. At best I'm quessing you are getting more slap after you run a few thousand miles if you think it thins using sound as a cheap UOA.

But I'd try maxlife 10-40 or even 10-30 while they're cheap at WM and still rebated by Valvo since you go short OCI. It does do some sound control.Proably has enough syn to help you out in winter.

Peace of mind- UOA and use a dino. Castrol startup is worth a try but its starting to be hard to find so you can probably get it closeout priced.
 
Synpower is fine oil, and I prefer it over Castrol. It just seems to vaporize less. I'll have a UOA on it, extended mileage, soon. 3.8L GM.
 
Just finished my change. Decided to try PP. I am happy so far. I noticed there seems to be less top end noise. I Also went from 10w40 back to 10w30.
 
10-40 is not good choice for a northern climate.

Also that 10-40 is not sheer stable as the 10w-30 and 5W-30s.

For 3K OCIs, you could use Supertech conventional for over 200K and sleep well with a normal, non-sludge bucket.
 
You won't like my suggestions, but from what I've read, these oils are better:

Amzoil
M1
Schaefers (SP?)
Redline

There are probably others as well.
 
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