Best Way to get STUCK ROTORS OFF?
- Thread starter David1
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I'm curious why you have not tried the way in the picture. It's fast and pretty easy. It saves you ears and elbow. I've used it for years. Highly recommended. Rotate the rotors as you push them off with the bolts. And remember, the nut at the end of the bolt (facing the rotor) is not optional! Make sure it says in place.
I have never found a rotor I couldn't get off without a bit of heat on the hat and a sharp whack with a 5lb sledge.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Believe it or not sometimes with a real stuck one like was common on Ford F150's you can just cut through them with a sawsall till its almost through on the hub then crack it with an air chisel.
The sawsall goes right though the pig iron like a hot knife.
I think this is the best approach, assuming you have said tools.
Believe it or not sometimes with a real stuck one like was common on Ford F150's you can just cut through them with a sawsall till its almost through on the hub then crack it with an air chisel.
The sawsall goes right though the pig iron like a hot knife.
I think this is the best approach, assuming you have said tools.
90's Accords you had to take the knuckle off the vehicle and press the rotors off. Matco has a tool where you can remove them on the vehicle. I had it when I turned wrenches, ended up getting screwed out of money with that tool as my manager saw it only took 20 minutes to pull them off and refused to pay me the normal labor op, ignoring that I had to pay off a $400 tool.
I had a set of rotors so stuck the spindles had to come off.
It wasn't in the hub bore; the backsides of the rotors rust-welded themselves to the hubs so much so that I couldn't identify where one started and the other ended.
With the spindles loose, I set them face down on some concrete so I could really whale on 'em. Chunks of iron were flying, I was chipping the rotors down to the cooling vanes.
Luckily I had some more spindles.
It wasn't in the hub bore; the backsides of the rotors rust-welded themselves to the hubs so much so that I couldn't identify where one started and the other ended.
With the spindles loose, I set them face down on some concrete so I could really whale on 'em. Chunks of iron were flying, I was chipping the rotors down to the cooling vanes.
Luckily I had some more spindles.
Im going to try the way in the pics , however Im so sore from hammering the 1 my elbows and arms are just so sore.
Ill let you guys know how it works.
Thanks for all your input, but I think the way in the pics looks good, however as the one guy said.. do that and tap at the same time.
Ill let you guys know how it works.
Thanks for all your input, but I think the way in the pics looks good, however as the one guy said.. do that and tap at the same time.
Your working to hard, especially on a FL car this shouldn't take long.
First what kind of hammer are you using? Use a sledge, you need something with some weight. Your not driving nails, a whack or two should do it.
Get a torch heat the hat and whack the *(&^%^&*(^&*(% with a sledge.
It will pop.
First what kind of hammer are you using? Use a sledge, you need something with some weight. Your not driving nails, a whack or two should do it.
Get a torch heat the hat and whack the *(&^%^&*(^&*(% with a sledge.
It will pop.
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I used to work with a guy whose dad has a Midas franchise, he said Honda put those screw on rotors and they get stuck a lot, and they frequently have to use a torch to heat the rotor up to get them off.
I had a stuck rotor on the Tracker and gave myself a sore elbow using a big ball peen. The original rotors had a threaded hole to put a bolt in to pop them off but the only bolt I had that size was a grade 0 which promptly twisted off.. So I drilled and a hole for a good size grade 8 bolt and snugged that up and a few wacks popped the rotor off. I should have done that right away.
I was helping a friend resurrect a 2003 Hyundai Accent. The rotors were past needing replacement. They were the originals. Wouldn't come off. We tried the threading a bolt thrugh the caliper bracket. Broke the caliper bracket off - that lead us to have to replace the knuckle. Lesson learned.
Never Seize - you can never use enough of this stuff!
Never Seize - you can never use enough of this stuff!
I also use a three jaw puller, pays for itself in the amount of frustration you save. Tighten it down, couple of whacks with a sledge on the rotor and then you hear a satisfying "pop".
Well I got the ROTOR OFF
I havent tried the passenger side rotor b/c its started to pour down RAIN...
I bought a nice 5 Pound Sledge hammer and on the one side it sorta had a V shape..
So I put some WD-40 Penetrate around the rust part and then I slow tapped all around the front and took my time... then I gave it few good wacks on the 9 Olock part of the rotor and it came right OFF.
I bought the Wearever Platinum Ceramic brakes so it came with new hardware so I changed that out and I took out the calipar slides carefully not to damage the boot and I put the lube that came with the box and first I cleaned them then I lube them and put them back on.
Then I did the drivers side and SPLASH it just started to RAINNNNNNNNN
I got in car and started it and pumpped brakes to make sure there was a pedeal and it was perfect....
Now I just have for the rain to stop so I can do the passenger side.
Some of you might say that I should of done them both at the same time.
However I like to test drive after I do one so if there is a noise or a problem It will be easy to know where it came from
again thanks for all you have told me..
It came in handy
and I needed no TOURCH
also I made sure on new ROTOR to clean it and I put ANTI SIZE anyplace it makes contact so if I ever have to change them again it should be no problem
I bought a nice 5 Pound Sledge hammer and on the one side it sorta had a V shape..
So I put some WD-40 Penetrate around the rust part and then I slow tapped all around the front and took my time... then I gave it few good wacks on the 9 Olock part of the rotor and it came right OFF.
I bought the Wearever Platinum Ceramic brakes so it came with new hardware so I changed that out and I took out the calipar slides carefully not to damage the boot and I put the lube that came with the box and first I cleaned them then I lube them and put them back on.
Then I did the drivers side and SPLASH it just started to RAINNNNNNNNN
I got in car and started it and pumpped brakes to make sure there was a pedeal and it was perfect....
Now I just have for the rain to stop so I can do the passenger side.
Some of you might say that I should of done them both at the same time.
However I like to test drive after I do one so if there is a noise or a problem It will be easy to know where it came from
again thanks for all you have told me..
It came in handy
and I needed no TOURCH
also I made sure on new ROTOR to clean it and I put ANTI SIZE anyplace it makes contact so if I ever have to change them again it should be no problem
Penetrating oil soak followed by an air hammer if you have one. If not a dead blow can work. But the air hammer always worked for me.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Penetrating oil soak followed by an air hammer if you have one. If not a dead blow can work. But the air hammer always worked for me.
2nd side came off perfect.... However when test drove it, it was perfect, However I noticed some smoke coming OFF the ROTORS,
Now I cleaned the ROTORS with Valvoline Brake Cleaner 2 times inside and outside and whipped off with a RAG..
Also I did the 20 mph then slow down and then 30 MPH then slow down like 10 times
However I have never really seen rotors smoke ... It was not much.. just a lil
and I did a FULL Job.. New Hardware and I re lubbed the calipar pins and really did a good job
but why smoke?
Is a lil normal?
Should I wash the wheels perhaps when they cool down????
just to make sure its all off?
weird
I mean I used nearly half the can or good amount a brake cleaner
My Dad said I should of used CARB Cleaner.
anyone???
or is this normal?
Penetrating oil soak followed by an air hammer if you have one. If not a dead blow can work. But the air hammer always worked for me.
2nd side came off perfect.... However when test drove it, it was perfect, However I noticed some smoke coming OFF the ROTORS,
Now I cleaned the ROTORS with Valvoline Brake Cleaner 2 times inside and outside and whipped off with a RAG..
Also I did the 20 mph then slow down and then 30 MPH then slow down like 10 times
However I have never really seen rotors smoke ... It was not much.. just a lil
and I did a FULL Job.. New Hardware and I re lubbed the calipar pins and really did a good job
but why smoke?
Is a lil normal?
Should I wash the wheels perhaps when they cool down????
just to make sure its all off?
weird
I mean I used nearly half the can or good amount a brake cleaner
My Dad said I should of used CARB Cleaner.
anyone???
or is this normal?
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