Best Way to get STUCK ROTORS OFF?

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David1

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I have seen ppl on You tube put bolts and 2 units via the caliper bold holes and basically force them OFF , however on a Honda I would be afraid to break part that holds the calipers in place

I mean isnt it possible to bend the steal / ear and then you have to spend more $???

I have a rotor on a buddy Accord that just wont budge and the screws were already gone.

anyone have any ideas?/ and I do not like to use HEAT.. and I already banged em with a hammer and yes I had the nutz on the studds, ( SOME PPL DONT DO THAT )

I might need a sledge hammer or I might try this.. what you think?

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the rear rotors on my max were frozen in place. since i was replacing the rotors anyway i hammered away at them from the back.

use a penetrator oil. let soak for a few hours. use hammer on the front hub portion and tap away. rotate rotor as necessary.
 
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
Big F'ing hammer, a big pry bar, some penetrating lube, and the steel to use them. Good luck.


So the way in the PICs is not a good way??????????????
 
When you put the new ones on....be sure to coat the area that is stuck with some grease so it doesn't happen again.
 
I'd spray some penetrating lube where the hub and the axle meet, spray from the front and back.

Tap around where the lug nut studs are with the nuts on the studs.

After doing this for a few minutes, then start smacking in an x pattern on the edge of the disc, turning it by hand as you go.

Bang on the front and the back. This will rock the disc.

Give beefy hits but don't go crazy. That is how someone gets hurt or stuff gets broken.

Also, as you work, there is no harm in keeping your working area you are hitting warm by heating it with a propane torch gently around the lug nut studs.

Again, this is just to help swell and contract the disc to pull in the penetrating oil. Warm for a couple minutues evenly and set the torch aside, work, then warm.

Your disc is bound to come off with very little effort and patience if you do this.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
When you put the new ones on....be sure to coat the area that is stuck with some grease so it doesn't happen again.


This, simple white grease will do the trick. My rotors literally fall off when I remove the caliper as a result.

I use a rubber mallet and some penetrating oil, and lots of patience. I don't want to damage the wheel bearing, or anything else, by going postal on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
I'd spray some penetrating lube where the hub and the axle meet, spray from the front and back.

Tap around where the lug nut studs are with the nuts on the studs.

After doing this for a few minutes, then start smacking in an x pattern on the edge of the disc, turning it by hand as you go.

Bang on the front and the back. This will rock the disc.

Give beefy hits but don't go crazy. That is how someone gets hurt or stuff gets broken.

Also, as you work, there is no harm in keeping your working area you are hitting warm by heating it with a propane torch gently around the lug nut studs.

Again, this is just to help swell and contract the disc to pull in the penetrating oil. Warm for a couple minutues evenly and set the torch aside, work, then warm.

Your disc is bound to come off with very little effort and patience if you do this.



I did that, I did that for like 20 minutes

the next day my elbow hurt so bad it felt like I had * Teniss Player Elbow or Swimmers Elbow or somthing *

What Im asking is I seen many people do it you You Tube in the PIC.

and there is new ROTORS to replace the old ones.

DO you think that is a bad way to do it?
 
The way in the pictures works great. Don't bang the hades out of it with a BFH or use a smoke wrench, you can damage the bearings.

Tighten the bolts and get it under some good tension then tap around the outside of the rotor where it sits on the hub, thats where the rust is thats holding it. Repeat till she pops.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
When you put the new ones on....be sure to coat the area that is stuck with some grease so it doesn't happen again.


Someone suggested anti-seize as opposed to grease... Not sure if it makes a difference but might make a good alternative
 
I recently sold our old '97 Accord to a mechanic buddy, who planned on fixing what needed to be fixed and flipping it.
It needed new rotors beyond question.
You can supposedly get these off by removing the assembly and then using a BFH.
No dice on that.
He took it to a shop and the operator had a hard time removing the rotors with a press.
You best bet might be to take the whole deal off the strut and find someone with a press.
I'd also buy it new wheel bearings, since they aren't expensive and this would be an easy opportunity to replace them.
 
Believe it or not sometimes with a real stuck one like was common on Ford F150's you can just cut through them with a sawsall till its almost through on the hub then crack it with an air chisel.
The sawsall goes right though the pig iron like a hot knife.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Believe it or not sometimes with a real stuck one like was common on Ford F150's you can just cut through them with a sawsall till its almost through on the hub then crack it with an air chisel.
The sawsall goes right though the pig iron like a hot knife.


I used an angle grinder, low-powered Sawzall, and chisel/BFH on our Fit's rotors to get them off. Cracking the rotor into 2 pieces isn't that hard. Wear hearing/eye protection when doing that, however!
 
I have seen it done the way you're talking about with success, but like you, I would be afraid of breaking something I don't want to break. In my opinion, if something has to be broken, go for the rotors. Like most everyone else here, a hammer and some ready heat is your best bet. I have found the best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mixture of brake fluid and automatic transmission fluid. Mix it up in a squirt can and squirt liberally, (be sure to keep shaking the can to keep it mixed). Old timers swear by a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and Kerosene applied with a paint brush, (although I'm sure you could use it in your squirt can as well). If this happens to be your only ride, (i.e. can't borrow a friends or relatives car to head to the part store), go ahead and buy the rotors and have them ready in case the old ones break.

BTW - with all this fluid flowing to loosen the rotor and with heat present, be very careful of fire. Catching your car on fire would be very bad.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Originally Posted By: Trav
Believe it or not sometimes with a real stuck one like was common on Ford F150's you can just cut through them with a sawsall till its almost through on the hub then crack it with an air chisel.
The sawsall goes right though the pig iron like a hot knife.


I used an angle grinder, low-powered Sawzall, and chisel/BFH on our Fit's rotors to get them off. Cracking the rotor into 2 pieces isn't that hard. Wear hearing/eye protection when doing that, however!


Yep they cut easy, i don't break them in two just crack them at the hub after cutting and they fall off.
Big +1 on eye protection, i use a full face shield and heavy gloves when getting abusive with iron.
 
Just went through this last night. As mentioned, penetrating oil/heat/hammer/prybar. Took me an hour to remove the two front rotors from the wife's 06 Liberty. I've never had such a hard time with rotors!
 
Never thought of that.
I always figured that the iron would be too hard to cut that easily.
Thanks for the helpful hint!
 
Best penetrating oil is 50/50 ATF and acetone. (nail polish remover) That, heat and a big hammer. I'd be afraid of breaking off those ears doing it your way - patience may be cheaper. Give the penetrating oil a day to work if possible. I had some jackstands that were rusted solid and the biggest hammer I had wouldn't move the peg. Liquid wrench and 48 hours later they fell out on their own.
 
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