car in quesiton is a 04 TSX, it has same trans as 04-08 4 cyl Accord. i read some comment on how Z1 does not play well with Amsoi ATF. anyone know the procedures to use ATF cooler or filter line to flush out the Z1 (and replace it with Amsoil)? thanks.
best way to flush out Z1
- Thread starter gogozy
- Start date
- Status
I would not worry about it, just drain and fill as usual. Imo, if you have over 50k miles, I;d flush it with plain Dexron or cheap Multi/ATF+4 to clear it out a lil before you put inthe expensive AMSoil. I have AMSoil in my '07 Accord, all I did was D&Fs at about 5k and 10k.
I won't worry too much about it. I just did multiple drain and fills when I switched to Amsoil ATF on my Accord, there's no ill effects on the transmission that I can tell. Shifts and drives fine.
I would use the basic flush method on the Amsoil website to flush the fluid, its the most cost effective of doing a total fluid replacement. Be sure to drain and fill the pan first before starting with the flush, you will have the least mixing of old and new fluids. After the drain and refill of pan, do not start the engine until the cooler lines are disconnected and you are ready to do the flush.
Drain and refills (every 15K-20K) are a fine way to refresh the fluid and get out some old fluid with wear metals, but is not a cost effective way to do a total fluid replacement with expensive synthetic ATF.
Drain and refills (every 15K-20K) are a fine way to refresh the fluid and get out some old fluid with wear metals, but is not a cost effective way to do a total fluid replacement with expensive synthetic ATF.
Donald summarized the matter very well.
thanks, i am going to read Amsoil's procedure to see if that is too difficult to do.
Some people modify Amsoil's procedure to pump out 2 QTs, then add 2 QTs. Thats a fine alternative and will work just as well. In some vehicles one cannot pour ATF into the transmission as fast as it gets pumped out, thus one is forced to do it using this method.
Two reasons why doing it yourself is better than paying for a flush machine:
1) Most places using a flush machine do not drain the pan first, thus you have some mixing of what is in the pan with new fluid from the flush machine.
2) If you want to go with a synthetic ATF, the flush machine needs to be purged first of all new fluid and this could be 1-3 QTs. Thus you will end up leaving 1-3 QTs of new ATF in the new fluid container of your expensive ATF as the flush machine never pumps itself empty during a flush.
Two reasons why doing it yourself is better than paying for a flush machine:
1) Most places using a flush machine do not drain the pan first, thus you have some mixing of what is in the pan with new fluid from the flush machine.
2) If you want to go with a synthetic ATF, the flush machine needs to be purged first of all new fluid and this could be 1-3 QTs. Thus you will end up leaving 1-3 QTs of new ATF in the new fluid container of your expensive ATF as the flush machine never pumps itself empty during a flush.
thanks! i am looking for a good weekend to flush the brake fluid and ATF. i am a little nervous about the ATF because i never did it before!!
It's always good to get someone to help you the first time if you are feeling uneasy about the procedures. They're really not that hard to flush out, but an experienced hand can be of help when available, especially to pump the brake pedal for bleeding and to start/stop the engine while flushing out the transmission fluid through the cooler hose method.
one more question... do i leave the car in P? or i need to shift it between P N D and R?
Kestas
Staff member
Yes. While the engine is running and you're fludhing the fluid, it is good to shift and hold momentarily in each gear. You see bursts of dark-colored fluid come out when you do this.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1158064
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1158064
Unless you have a RWD/4WD Dodge truck, you can leave it in Park during the entire flush procedure. While I am running the engine to flush the fluid out of the cooler hose/line, I like to run it for a few seconds in each gear to get new fluid into every hydraulic circuit for a more complete flush. This is not necessary to do and adds some extra steps, plus you need to be careful and hold the brake etc. You will flush out plenty of the fluid by leaving it in Park. The main idea of the flush is to get the fluid trapped in the torque converter (about 3-4 qts) replaced by the new fluid. This is the main thing you will accomplish with a flush. Good Luck!
thanks for info, they are good read!!
the car have a Honda AT and so i think leaving it in P is good enough. is there adventages in moving in different gear during flush? i mean, will there be fluid stuck somewhere if i don't shift to D or R? but even i do, would not move to 2nd or 3rd gear if i shift to D in AT.
the car have a Honda AT and so i think leaving it in P is good enough. is there adventages in moving in different gear during flush? i mean, will there be fluid stuck somewhere if i don't shift to D or R? but even i do, would not move to 2nd or 3rd gear if i shift to D in AT.
- Status
Similar threads
