Best way to change ATF this weekend

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I have 30K miles on my current ATF fill and I am do for a change in my 2005 Ford Ranger. The problem is I have never done any transmission work and I am not even quite sure how to change the fluid. Luckily, I do consider myself mechanically inclined and with a little help, I know I can do it.

My Haynes manual just says to drop the pan, about 8 quarts of ATF will drain, change filter, and you are good to go. But my owner's manual says the transmission holds something like 11 quarts of fluid (I can't remember the exact amount).

So with this method, I am leaving about 3 quarts of old ATF in the transmission. Where is that 3 quarts at that it is not emptying out the drain pan? I assume it is just hiding in the internals of the transmission.

Is this Haynes method sufficient to try?
 
Most of the rest is hiding in the torque converter.

If you are getting 8/11ths (72%) of the oil with a pan drop then I doubt it's worth chasing the rest out.

Pan drop and clean is good way to go if you don't have a drain plug and while the pan is off a drain plug would be easy to add.
 
If your old fluid is realitively clean then just drain the pan, replace the filter (if not lifetime) and refill and do this every 30K miles in your Ford and you will not have to worry.

If your fluid is overspent already then I would do a flush via the cooler lines. IMO this isn't necessary if the fluid is good looking at time of change.
 
Your Ranger should already have a drain bolt installed on the transmission pan, my brother has an 05 and he has one. Just pull the bolt and drain all that comes out, then replace the same amount through the oil dipstick tube.

Consider using a high quality synthetic, Amsoil/Redline/Schaeffers are all premium products that improve shift function and longevity.
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work

Your Ranger should already have a drain bolt installed on the transmission pan, my brother has an 05 and he has one. Just pull the bolt and drain all that comes out, then replace the same amount through the oil dipstick tube.

Consider using a high quality synthetic, Amsoil/Redline/Schaeffers are all premium products that improve shift function and longevity.


Replace transmission fluid through the transmission dipstick tube, not the oil dipstick tube.
 
Here's a little trick if you don't have a drain plug and are afraid to disconnect a line from the radiator. Get a suction pump, it looks like a grease gun, and get a longer hose. The total cost about $15 or less with the longer hose. Put the hose into the dipstick fill tube on the transmission, and suck out as much fluid as you can. You'll be surprised how much fluid comes out. If you are lucky enough to own a Miti-Vac then you're golden! Use the Miti-Vac instead. This beats tipping the pan, especially if you're working on your back.

OR

If you can disconnect a line going to the radiator, you can run the engine and pump out fluid via the line. Once the flow of fluid slows down shut the engine off. Reconnect everything, then drop the pan. Makes for a cleaner easier job. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: hate2work

Your Ranger should already have a drain bolt installed on the transmission pan, my brother has an 05 and he has one. Just pull the bolt and drain all that comes out, then replace the same amount through the oil dipstick tube.

Consider using a high quality synthetic, Amsoil/Redline/Schaeffers are all premium products that improve shift function and longevity.


Replace transmission fluid through the transmission dipstick tube, not the oil dipstick tube.


Good catch, my mistake. Hopefully the OP knew what I meant
blush.gif
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: hate2work

Your Ranger should already have a drain bolt installed on the transmission pan, my brother has an 05 and he has one. Just pull the bolt and drain all that comes out, then replace the same amount through the oil dipstick tube.

Consider using a high quality synthetic, Amsoil/Redline/Schaeffers are all premium products that improve shift function and longevity.


Replace transmission fluid through the transmission dipstick tube, not the oil dipstick tube.


Good catch, my mistake. Hopefully the OP knew what I meant
blush.gif



Not to worry...he will find out soon if he fills his engine with ATF and leaves the trans dry. The real question will be which will grenade first...
crazy2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: PT1

Not to worry...he will find out soon if he fills his engine with ATF and leaves the trans dry. The real question will be which will grenade first...
crazy2.gif



Sounds like a fun test to me!
cheers3.gif
 
the ranger I owned for 2 months before my girlfriend wrecked it ( it tested my love for her) had a drain plug and it was a 2005.
 
I'll have to check again for a drain plug.

Now about the residual fluid left in the torque converter...what if I got a Mityvac and used it to suck that extra fluid from the trans filler tube under the hood? Do you think that would work? I have been wanting to get one of those for a while and this just might be the excuse I need.
 
No, the mityvac will not remove the couple of quarts left in the torque converter. The best way is to do a cooler line flush. This way there will be 99% new fluid in the trans and no mixing to speak of. After that you can do drain and fills if you like, before the fluid ever get's close to being exhausted.
 
If it has a drain plug I would do this procedure. Pull the plug (4 qts is the usual that the pan holds) refill with 6 quarts. Pull the cooler line and pump out 4 qts. Repeat once only adding and pumping out 2 qts. On the last refill only add 2 qts. In all that should be 10 qts.. you could pump out one more quart on the last to make sure all is out but I doubt it's necessary.Now if the pan capacity isn't 4 qts just adjust the quantity a bit.
 
Even though its not quite as thorough as draining via a plug, I will usually just pump out most of the fluid in the pan if Im not taking it off, until air bubbles appear in the flush line. Then top it off and start the flush procedure. Its not ideal but it works.
 
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I had an 05 2wd w/ a 3.0 and an auto no drain plug but that was the least of its trans problems lol. but droping the pan every 15-30k changing filter everytime should be good thats what I do with my F-150. It gives me a warm fuzzy feeling because people go 150-200k on the factory fill imagine how far people like us can go
 
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Originally Posted By: defektes
the ranger I owned for 2 months before my girlfriend wrecked it ( it tested my love for her) had a drain plug and it was a 2005.


Not to hijack...BUT if my girlfriend/sig other/wife/ex-wife/one night stand/fbuddy wrecked my truck...it would be over.
31.gif


The only exceptions being Christie Brinkley or Pamela Anderson.
20.gif
 
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(imagining "Tater" on the working class comedy tour)

Quote:
It gives me a warm fuzzy feeling because people go 150-200k on the factory fill imagine how far people like us can go


Oh ..probably 75-100ft after the failure event. Probably beat the wrecker to the spot by 1-2 hours.
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
Originally Posted By: defektes
the ranger I owned for 2 months before my girlfriend wrecked it ( it tested my love for her) had a drain plug and it was a 2005.


Not to hijack...BUT if my girlfriend/sig other/wife/ex-wife/one night stand/fbuddy wrecked my truck...it would be over.
31.gif


The only exceptions being Christie Brinkley or Pamela Anderson.
20.gif



Oh beleive me i don't let her drive anymore.
 
Okay, another newbie question:

Do you have to do a full flush if you switch to synthetic? I don't know what the dealership put in it last time but if it is not synthetic, and I put synthetic in it now, will I be okay mixing synthetic and conventional?
 
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