Best way for brake fluid flush without pads change

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What's the best practice for flushing the brake fluid without changing brake pads at the same time?

Probably when the pads get changed (in the fututre) the level of the brake fluid will rise, so is it better to fill till the "Max" line and remove fluid after the pads change or to mark the current level of the fluid and fill the reservoir up to it?

(I'm asking because currently my car's pads are about 50% worn but the fluid is already almost 3 years old).
 
I see a fe different solutions..

Leave the pads untouched, fill to the full line and suck some out with a turkey baster when you put new pads in

Or

Push the pistons all the way back and hold them with a C clamp, then bleed and fill to the max mark

Or

Bleed and only fill up to the level that the fluid is at now (a little sharpie mark on the reservoir should do it)
 
On each caliper in turn, I crimp each hose with round nose pliers, open the bleeder and push the piston back. That pushes a significant amount of nasty fluid out. I then put the motive pressure bleeder on and flush it through, pump up the brakes with the pedal and call it done.
 
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
On each caliper in turn, I crimp each hose with round nose pliers, open the bleeder and push the piston back. That pushes a significant amount of nasty fluid out. I then put the motive pressure bleeder on and flush it through, pump up the brakes with the pedal and call it done.


The way to do it, right here....
Most amount of crud removed, as possible. Least amount of "moving" of any contamination back thru the system if there is any in the wheel ends (cylinders/calipers) !

BurrWinder
 
Personal challenge to relate...
I have even, in a pinch, had broken bleeder on a caliper on a beater car and was able to save it with this procedure...
Fill caliper and get fluid filled in offending corner to the caliper.
Bleed out as best possible with a fairly thin block of wood placed between the old pads or in the caliper just thick enough to prevent piston ejection - bleeding out of the hose mount bolt with it as high as possible to remove as much air as possible thru there.
Once this is done, "push back" the pistons carefully with the hose entry point as the highest point to remove any final, residual air back to the master reservoir.
Reinstall brakes properly as needed and ck for proper pedal feel and road test vehicle.
Day saved for the caliper with the broken bleeder !

BurrWinder
 
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
On each caliper in turn, I crimp each hose with round nose pliers, open the bleeder and push the piston back. That pushes a significant amount of nasty fluid out. I then put the motive pressure bleeder on and flush it through, pump up the brakes with the pedal and call it done.
----this is not a good idea. You run the risk of damaging the inner structure of the flexible brake hose by crimping it. The flexible line is not designed to be crimped or kinked in any way. I have seen hoses rupture from being clamped off while replacing calipers, flushing fluid, piston seal replacement, etc.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mehullica
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
On each caliper in turn, I crimp each hose with round nose pliers, open the bleeder and push the piston back. That pushes a significant amount of nasty fluid out. I then put the motive pressure bleeder on and flush it through, pump up the brakes with the pedal and call it done.
----this is not a good idea. You run the risk of damaging the inner structure of the flexible brake hose by crimping it. The flexible line is not designed to be crimped or kinked in any way. I have seen hoses rupture from being clamped off while replacing calipers, flushing fluid, piston seal replacement, etc.


This can be done... it just needs to be only done gently enough to seal, not clamped down like trying to remove a broken bolt. Good to use a shop towel to "cushion" the pressure point on the hose as well. Better yet, they make "pinch off" pliers that have smooth edges and a pinch point designed just for this purpose - for coolant hoses and brake hoses, etc.

So no harm, no foul if done properly...



BurrWinder
 
Changing the pads is not required to do a brake fluid flush.

Depending on how worn your pads are, just make a note of where the fluid is in the reservoir. When you complete your flush, just make sure the fluid is at the same level.
 
Originally Posted By: stchman
Changing the pads is not required to do a brake fluid flush.

Depending on how worn your pads are, just make a note of where the fluid is in the reservoir. When you complete your flush, just make sure the fluid is at the same level.

Many drivers never change their brake fluid. Flush brake fluid when change the pads is to save time. You're already remove the wheels to access the pad and bleeder valve is right there why not flush the brake ?
 
I usually make it a habit to lower the level of fluid in the reservoir before I do a brake job. However if I am flushing the fluid without changing linings, I will mark the fluid level on the reservoir before I start and then just refill to that level. On my personal car I will keep it at the MAX mark.

I try to make it a habit and loosen the bleeders on the calipers when I compress the pistons, a lot comes out on a Brembo caliper when you compress the pistons.
 
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
Hmm, I always just suck the fluid out with a turkey baster and refill. Wonder if thats thourgh enough???


No circulation. The fluid in the calipers won't be changed by this.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I usually make it a habit to lower the level of fluid in the reservoir before I do a brake job. However if I am flushing the fluid without changing linings, I will mark the fluid level on the reservoir before I start and then just refill to that level. On my personal car I will keep it at the MAX mark.

I try to make it a habit and loosen the bleeders on the calipers when I compress the pistons, a lot comes out on a Brembo caliper when you compress the pistons.

I do the same, this way old brake fluid comes out of bleeder valve instead of goes back to the brake system and reservoir, and possible overflow reservoir and spill into the engine.
 
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