best synthetic oil

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

It's application specific.

Doug is technically correct (which you alluded to) in a warmer ambient location.

Look at BuickGN's car. He's had his lowest wear numbers with 20w50.

BUT, it's a high-horsepower turbocharged app..... Much like the scenarios Doug alluded to with Porsche.

Application seems to play a key role.


Even better, my results are from teardowns. All of my clearances are within stock range, on the loose end but still in range. The one exception would be piston to wall with the forged JEs. Remember, this is just a 2-bolt stock block.

The engine just beats the rod bearings out and I had piston scuffing problems with thinner stuff. Running mostly stock cast parts, I have seen evidence that my main caps walk a little and I'm getting a little crank flex. Maybe that's why I need a bigger cushion of oil.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

It's application specific.

Doug is technically correct (which you alluded to) in a warmer ambient location.

Look at BuickGN's car. He's had his lowest wear numbers with 20w50.

BUT, it's a high-horsepower turbocharged app..... Much like the scenarios Doug alluded to with Porsche.

Application seems to play a key role.


Even better, my results are from teardowns. All of my clearances are within stock range, on the loose end but still in range. The one exception would be piston to wall with the forged JEs.

The engine just beats the rod bearings out and I had piston scuffing problems with thinner stuff. Running mostly stock cast parts, I have seen evidence that my main caps walk a little and I'm getting a little crank flex. Maybe that's why I need a bigger cushion of oil.


Exactly. Your results do a great job of illustrating why there is no "one best grade" of oil.

 

[Trvlr500]

put driveway sealer in the motor

Personally, I don't see where 15-50 could be construed as driveway sealer. Furthermore, this hysteria of using water to lubricate an engine is, IMO, for the most part pure B.S. based on the hoax of man-made climate change which, of course doesn't exist. Unfortunately, many have fallen for this scheme and we are paying dearly by not using our own unlimited oil supplies here at home forcing people to by go-karts and use water for lubrication to save on gas.

Newer engines are designed with far tighter tolerances than relics of the 70's and before. They also rev much higher where an old Caddy never really gets much past around 2500 RPM even at 70 mph so I don't see where thinner oil is going to affect fuel mileage at all in a car of this vintage.

The other reason I use thicker oils is that the 472/500 Caddy motors run very hot by design. 230 degrees is not our of the ordinary. I just use what works in the particular engine I own and if you notice I agreed with every poster here that he should run the 5-30 and not go thicker than 10-30 or 10-40 even in the summer time.

I may also add that one of the biggest reasons to use thinner oils in cold weather is that many people hop in their car, fire it up, throw it into gear and take off driving before giving it a chance to warm up. Proper warm up will allow the use of thicker oils and IMO you get better protection under load once proper operating tempurature is reached.

I think this "thin hysteria" is overblown but it really doesn't hurt anything. The new cars are designed for it. Old cars aren't. I might also point out that timing chains which are almost obsolete these days in newer engines are hard on oil when it comes to shearing.

In addition to all of the above. Thicker oil clings to engine parts better once the engine cools down. I have noticed my oil light is only on for about 1 second (if that) when I start to crank the engine where as with the 10-30 it would stay on for 2-3 seconds as I crank the engine.

15 weight is thin enough for starting in 20 to 30 degree weather as far as I'm concerned. So 15-50 or 15-40 is what I use.

 

[Trvlr500]

AWESOME car!!!!!!!! How many miles and what engine?

The car has about 185,000 on it. The engine is the 472 but was rebuilt about 75,000 miles ago. It's stock except for dual exhaust, a stouter cam, MSD ignition, custom-built quadrajet, hyperttunetic cast pistons, ARP rod bolts and other upgraded parts. I have an Edelbrock manifold I haven't put on yet.

It's been my only car for about 12 or 13 years. I can't seem to part with it. It's reliable as an anvil too. Starts right up no matter what the temperature. I can drive it anywhere at the drop of a hat.

It cruises nice between 80 and 90 and gets about 14 mpg if I keep it between 80 and 90. Anywhere from 9 to 14 around town depending on my right foot. I have heard of more than one person getting well over 400,000 miles out of a 472/500 motor. They last forever.

I'd post an image but I don't know how.

 

[HARTZSKY]

Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
put driveway sealer in the motor

Personally, I don't see where 15-50 could be construed as driveway sealer. Furthermore, this hysteria of using water to lubricate an engine is, IMO, for the most part pure B.S. based on the hoax of man-made climate change which, of course doesn't exist. Unfortunately, many have fallen for this scheme and we are paying dearly by not using our own unlimited oil supplies here at home forcing people to by go-karts and use water for lubrication to save on gas.

Newer engines are designed with far tighter tolerances than relics of the 70's and before. They also rev much higher where an old Caddy never really gets much past around 2500 RPM even at 70 mph so I don't see where thinner oil is going to affect fuel mileage at all in a car of this vintage.

The other reason I use thicker oils is that the 472/500 Caddy motors run very hot by design. 230 degrees is not our of the ordinary. I just use what works in the particular engine I own and if you notice I agreed with every poster here that he should run the 5-30 and not go thicker than 10-30 or 10-40 even in the summer time.

I may also add that one of the biggest reasons to use thinner oils in cold weather is that many people hop in their car, fire it up, throw it into gear and take off driving before giving it a chance to warm up. Proper warm up will allow the use of thicker oils and IMO you get better protection under load once proper operating tempurature is reached.

I think this "thin hysteria" is overblown but it really doesn't hurt anything. The new cars are designed for it. Old cars aren't. I might also point out that timing chains which are almost obsolete these days in newer engines are hard on oil when it comes to shearing.

In addition to all of the above. Thicker oil clings to engine parts better once the engine cools down. I have noticed my oil light is only on for about 1 second (if that) when I start to crank the engine where as with the 10-30 it would stay on for 2-3 seconds as I crank the engine.

15 weight is thin enough for starting in 20 to 30 degree weather as far as I'm concerned. So 15-50 or 15-40 is what I use.

Good point
Good Point

 

[DragRace]

Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
The car has about 185,000 on it. The engine is the 472 but was rebuilt about 75,000 miles ago. It's stock except for dual exhaust, a stouter cam, MSD ignition, custom-built quadrajet, hyperttunetic cast pistons, ARP rod bolts and other upgraded parts.

It's been my only car for about 12 or 13 years. I can't seem to part with it. It's reliable as an anvil too. Starts right up no matter what the temperature. Cruises nice between 80 and 90 and gets about 14 mpg if I keep it between 80 and 90. Anywhere from 9 to 14 around town depending on my right foot.

I'd post an image but I don't know how.




upload the picture a free picture hosting site like tinypic.

Then copy the IMG code

on here using the code they supplied,which they will give you after the picture has been uploaded.

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: sprintman
What an absolute load of [censored]! North Americans seem to have this idea that going from say 30W to 40W means going from olive oil to bhoney. This is absolute cr#p. I ran 25W70 for over 5 years in the coldest part of Australia. I could go and run 40W70 without a problem in an engine North Americans run 5W70, and still no problems. You guys have serious viscosity phobia, get over it.


I don't think that 5W-70 is even available here.

I think it is the Australians who have the viscosity phobia. You are afraid of running anything that flows faster than peanut butter.

 

[Trvlr500]

Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
The car has about 185,000 on it. The engine is the 472 but was rebuilt about 75,000 miles ago. It's stock except for dual exhaust, a stouter cam, MSD ignition, custom-built quadrajet, hyperttunetic cast pistons, ARP rod bolts and other upgraded parts.

It's been my only car for about 12 or 13 years. I can't seem to part with it. It's reliable as an anvil too. Starts right up no matter what the temperature. Cruises nice between 80 and 90 and gets about 14 mpg if I keep it between 80 and 90. Anywhere from 9 to 14 around town depending on my right foot.

I'd post an image but I don't know how.




upload the picture a free picture hosting site like tinypic.

Then copy the IMG code

on here using the code they supplied,which they will give you after the picture has been uploaded.


OK, I'll give that a try. Computer's are not my strong suit.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2ryjzac.jpg[/IMG
[IMG]http://i43.tinypic.com/2njio49.jpg

 

[Trvlr500]

Here is another one.

 

[Riptide]

Sweet cadillac man. And NV? How many bodies have been in that trunk?

 

[Trvlr500]

Originally Posted By: Riptide
Sweet cadillac man. And NV? How many bodies have been in that trunk?


Thanks, Riptide. No bodies that "I" know of but it was originally a New Jersey car so it's possible that maybe one or two have been in there.

Yes it's aNevada car but I am in the process of re-locating to UT.

 

[Trvlr500]

Thanks for the tip on "Tinypic", Dragrace. That solves a dilemma I've had for a long time.

 

[Trvlr500]

As we ALL know the off-road handling of Cadillacs is legendary

 

[Pablo]

Now THAT'S a CAR. In Nevada - 20W-50, no doubt.

There is no doubt that North America has much colder extremes than Australia, in case anyone is interested.

Australia Temp extremes:

AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE

* Canberra 42.2 C (108.0 F) on the 1st February, 1968

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE

* Canberra -10.0 C (14.0 F) on the 11th July, 1971

NEW SOUTH WALES

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Wilcannia 50.0 C (122.0 F) on the 11th January, 1939

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Charlotte Pass -23.0 C (-9.4 F) on the 29th June, 1994

NORTHERN TERRITORY

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Finke 48.3 C (118.9 F) on the 2nd January, 1960

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Alice Springs -7.5 C (18.5 F) on the 12th July, 1976

QUEENSLAND

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Birdsville 49.5 C (121.1 F) on the 24th December, 1972

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Stanthorpe -11.0 C (12.2 F) on the 4th July, 1895

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Oodnadatta 50.7 C (123.3 F) on the 2nd January, 1960

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Yongala -8.2 C (17.2 F) on the 20th July, 1976

TASMANIA

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Hobart 40.8 C (105.4 F) on the 4th January, 1976

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Shannon -13.0 C (8.6 F) on the 30th June, 1983

VICTORIA

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE

* Mildura 47.2 C (117.0 F) on the 10th January, 1939

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Mt Hotham -12.8 C (9.0 F) on the 13th August, 1947

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

HIGHEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Mardie 50.5 C (122.9 F) on the 19th February, 1998

LOWEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE:

* Booylgoo Springs -6.7 C (19.9 F) on the 12th July, 1969


UNITED STATES TEMPERATURE EXTREMES

ALABAMA
Centerville 44.4 C (112.0 F) on the 5th September, 1925
New Market -32.8 C (-27.0 F) on the 30th January, 1966

ALASKA
Fort Yukon 37.8 C (100.0 F) on the 27th June, 1915
Prospect Creek -62.2 C (-80.0 F) on the 23rd January, 1971

ARIZONA
Lake Havasu City 53.3 C (128.0 F) on the 29th June, 1994
Hawley Lake -40.0 C (-40.0 F) on the 7th January, 1971

ARKANSAS
Ozark 48.9 C (120.0 F) on the 10th August, 1936
Pond -33.9 C (-29.0 F) on the 13th February, 1905

CALIFORNIA
Death Valley 56.7 C (134.0 F) on the 10th July, 1913
Boca -42.8 C (-45.0 F) on the 20th January, 1937

COLORADO
Bennett 47.8 C (118.0 F) on the 11th July, 1888
Maybell -51.7 C (-61.0 F) on the 1st February, 1985

CONNECTICUT
Danbury 40.6 C (105.0 F) on the 21st July, 1991 *
Falls Village -35.6 C (-32.0 F) on the 16th February, 1943

DELAWARE
Millsboro 43.3 C (110.0 F) on the 21st July, 1930
Millsboro -27.2 C (-17.0 F) on the 17th January, 1893

FLORIDA
Monticello 42.8 C (109.0 F) on the 29th June, 1931
Tallahassee -18.9 C (-2.0 F) on the 13th February, 1899

GEORGIA
Louisville 44.4 C (112.0 F) on the 24th July, 1952
CCC Camp -27.2 C (-17.0 F) on the 27th January, 1940

HAWAII
Pahala 37.8C (100.0 F) on the 27th April, 1931
Mauna Kea -11.1 C (12.0 F) on the 17th May, 1979

IDAHO
Orofino 47.8 C (118.0 F) on the 28th July, 1934
Island Park Dam -51.1 C (-60.0 F) on the 18th January, 1943

ILLINOIS
East St. Louis 47.2 C (117.0 F) on the 14th July, 1954
Elizabeth -37.2 C (-35.0 F) on the 3rd February, 1996 *

INDIANA
Collegeville 46.7 C (116.0 F) on the 14th July, 1936
New Whiteland -37.8 C (-36.0 F) on the 19th January, 1994

IOWA
Keokuk 47.8 C (118.0 F) on the 20th July, 1934
Elkader -43.9 C (-47.0 F) on the 3rd February, 1996 *

KANSAS
Alton 49.4 C (121.0 F) on the 24th July, 1936 *
Lebanon -40.0 C (-40.0 F) on the 13th February, 1905

KENTUCKY
Greensburg 45.6 C (114.0 F) on the 28th July, 1930
Cynthiana -36.7 C (-34.0 F) on the 28th January, 1963

LOUISIANA
Plain Dealing 45.6 C (114.0 F) on the 10th August, 1936
Minden -26.7 C (-16.0 F) on the 13th February, 1899

MAINE
North Bridgton 40.6 C (105.0 F) on the 10th July, 1911 *
Van Buren -44.4 C (-48.0 F) on the 19th January, 1925

MARYLAND
Cumberland 42.8 C (109.0 F) on the 10th July, 1936 *
Oakland -40.0 C (-40.0 F) on the 13th January, 1912

MASSACHUSETTS
New Bedford 41.7 C (107.0 F) on the 2nd August, 1975
Chester -37.2 C (-35.0 F) on the 12th January, 1981

MICHIGAN
Mio 44.4 C (112.0 F) on the 13th July, 1936
Vanderbilt -46.1 C (-51.0 F) on the 9th February , 1934

MINNESOTA
Moorhead 45.6 C (114.0 F) on the 6th July, 1936 *
Tower -51.1 C (-60.0 F) on the 2nd February, 1996

MISSISSIPPI
Holly Springs 46.1 C (115.0 F) on the 29th July, 1930
Corinth -28.3 C (-19.0 F) on the 30th January, 1966

MISSOURI
Warsaw 47.8 C (118.0 F) on the 14th July, 1954 *
Warsaw -40.0 C (-40.0 F) on the 13th February, 1905

MONTANA
Medicine Lake 47.2 C (117.0 F) on the 5th July, 1937
Rogers Pass -56.7 C (-70.0 F) on the 20th January, 1954

NEBRASKA
Minden 47.8 C (118.0 F) on the 24th July, 1936 *
Camp Clarke -43.9 C (-47.0 F) on the 12th February, 1899

NEVADA
Laughlin 51.7 C (125.0 F) on the 29th June, 1994
San Jacinto -45.6 C (-50.0 F) on the 8th January, 1937

NEW HAMPSHIRE
Nashua 41.1 C (106.0 F) on the 4th July, 1911
Pittsburg -43.3 C (-46.0 F) on the 28th January, 1925

NEW JERSEY
Runyon 43.3 C (110.0 F) on the 10th July, 1936
River Vale -36.7 C (-34.0 F) on the 5th January, 1904

NEW MEXICO
Waste Isolat Pilot Plt 50.0 C (122.0 F) on the 27th June, 1994
Gavilan -45.6 C (-50.0 F) on the 1st February, 1951

NEW YORK
Troy 42.2 C (108.0 F) on the 22nd July, 1926
Old Forge -46.7 C (-52.0 F) on the 18th February, 1979 *

NORTH CAROLINA
Fayetteville 43.3 C (110.0 F) on the 21st August, 1983
Mt. Mitchell -36.7 C (-34.0 F) on the 21st January, 1985

NORTH DAKOTA
Steele 49.4 C (121.0 F) on the 6th July, 1936
Parshall -51.1 C (-60.0 F) on the 15th February, 1936

OHIO
Gallipolis 45.0 C (113.0 F) on the 21st July, 1934 *
Milligan -39.4 C (-39.0 F) on the 10th February, 1899

OKLAHOMA
Tipton 48.9 C (120.0 F) on the 27th June, 1994 *
Watts -32.8 C (-27.0 F) on the 18th January, 1930

OREGON
Pendleton 48.3 C (119.0 F) on the 10th August, 1898
Seneca -47.8 C (-54.0 F) on the 10th February, 1933 *

PENNSYLVANIA
Phoenixville 43.9 C (111.0 F) on the 10th July, 1936 *
Smethport -41.1 C (-42.0 F) on the 5th January, 1904

RHODE ISLAND
Providence 40.0 C (104.0 F) on the 2nd August, 1975
Greene -31.7 C (-25.0 F) on the 5th February, 1996

SOUTH CAROLINA
Camden 43.9 C (111.0 F) on the 28th June, 1954 *
Caesars Head -28.3 C (-19.0 F) on the 21st January, 1985

SOUTH DAKOTA
Gannvalley 48.9 C (120.0 F) on the 5th July, 1936
McIntosh -50.0 C (-58.0 F) on the 17th February, 1936

TENNESSEE
Perryville 45.0 C (113.0 F) on the 9th August, 1930 *
Mountain City -35.6 C (-32.0 F) on the 30th December, 1917

TEXAS
Seymour 48.9 C (120.0 F) on the 12th August, 1936
Seminole -30.6 C (-23.0 F) on the 8th February, 1933 *

UTAH
Saint George 47.2 C (117.0 F) on the 5th July, 1985
Peter's Sink -56.1 C (-69.0 F) on the 1st February, 1985

VERMONT
Vernon 40.6 C (105.0 F) on the 4th July, 1911
Bloomfield -45.6 C (-50.0 F) on the 30th December, 1933

VIRGINIA
Balcony Falls 43.3 C (110.0 F) on the 15th July, 1954
Mtn. Lake Bio -34.4 C (-30.0 F) on the 22nd January, 1985

WASHINGTON STATE
Ice Harbor Dam 47.8 C (118.0 F) on the 5th August, 1961 *
Mazama -44.4 C (-48.0 F) on the 30th December, 1968

WEST VIRGINIA
Martinsburg 44.4 C (112.0 F) on the 10th July, 1936 *
Lewisburg -38.3 C (-37.0 F) on the 30th December, 1917

WISCONSIN
Wisconsin Dells 45.6 C (114.0 F) on the 13th July, 1936
Danbury -47.8 C (-54.0 F) on the 24th January, 1922

WYOMING
Basin 45.6 C (114.0 F) on the 12th July, 1900
Riverside -54.4 C (-66.0 F) on the 9th February, 1933

 

[DragRace]

Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
Thanks for the tip on "Tinypic", Dragrace. That solves a dilemma I've had for a long time.

 

[demarpaint]

20W50 would work fine in the big Vintage Caddy, especially in the desert during the summer. Those engines aren't as tight as the ones today. I would still probably use a 10W30 or 10W40 in the winter though..

JMO
Frank D

 

[Trvlr500]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20W50 would work fine in the big Vintage Caddy, especially in the desert during the summer. Those engines aren't as tight as the ones today. I would still probably use a 10W30 or 10W40 in the winter though..

JMO
Frank D


Yes, you may be right. I have been using 10-30 in the winter but recently I was thinking about it and I thought, if 15-50 is 15 weight when it is cold then why wouldn't it work in 20 degree weather.

I talked to the guy that runs the shop at the trucking company where I work and his thinking was the same as mine. Keep in mind trucking companies are VERY in tune with oils.

So, after 5 years of switching to 10-30 in the winter I decided to go back to 15-50 year round this time. I'll see how it works out. I may go back to what I was doing. The probelm is the wasted money. I change to 15-50 in the summer and then after MAYBE 3000 miles I have to change back to 10-30.

It doesn't make sense which is why I am considering 15-40 Amsoil year round. For an engine that runs this hot I just think 10-30 is too thin when I get in it on a 100 degree day and drive from Salt Lake City to Sacramento or Reno at 85 mph.

My other consideration in that the wider the viscosity range the quicker the oil will shear. Even if I owned a new car I would NEVER put something like 5-40 or 0-30 in it. That may not be the case with Amsoil and other premium oils but I wouldn't feel comforatable taking the chance.

10-40 is an option for year round but then you have the wide viscosity spread again. I would just like to put one in that will do it all year. I'm thinking 10-40 or 15-40 Amsoil may be what I need.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20W50 would work fine in the big Vintage Caddy, especially in the desert during the summer. Those engines aren't as tight as the ones today. I would still probably use a 10W30 or 10W40 in the winter though..

JMO
Frank D


Yes, you may be right. I have been using 10-30 in the winter but recently I was thinking about it and I thought, if 15-50 is 15 weight when it is cold then why wouldn't it work in 20 degree weather.

I talked to the guy that runs the shop at the trucking company where I work and his thinking was the same as mine. Keep in mind trucking companies are VERY in tune with oils.

So, after 5 years of switching to 10-30 in the winter I decided to go back to 15-50 year round this time. I'll see how it works out. I may go back to what I was doing. The probelm is the wasted money. I change to 15-50 in the summer and then after MAYBE 3000 miles I have to change back to 10-30.

It doesn't make sense which is why I am considering 15-40 Amsoil year round. For an engine that runs this hot I just think 10-30 is too thin when I get in it on a 100 degree day and drive from Salt Lake City to Sacramento or Reno at 85 mph.

My other consideration in that the wider the viscosity range the quicker the oil will shear. Even if I owned a new car I would NEVER put something like 5-40 or 0-30 in it. That may not be the case with Amsoil and other premium oils but I wouldn't feel comforatable taking the chance.


I'd go Delvac 1/M1 TDT 5w40. That's what I'm running in my old 302's. They seem to love it.

My grandmother had a '72 Eldorado, those cars are awesome!

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: endeavor to persevere


I thought about that. Off hand I can't think of a truck that has a 3.8.

Don


Dodge Dakota

 

[Trvlr500]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20W50 would work fine in the big Vintage Caddy, especially in the desert during the summer. Those engines aren't as tight as the ones today. I would still probably use a 10W30 or 10W40 in the winter though..

JMO
Frank D


Yes, you may be right. I have been using 10-30 in the winter but recently I was thinking about it and I thought, if 15-50 is 15 weight when it is cold then why wouldn't it work in 20 degree weather.

I talked to the guy that runs the shop at the trucking company where I work and his thinking was the same as mine. Keep in mind trucking companies are VERY in tune with oils.

So, after 5 years of switching to 10-30 in the winter I decided to go back to 15-50 year round this time. I'll see how it works out. I may go back to what I was doing. The probelm is the wasted money. I change to 15-50 in the summer and then after MAYBE 3000 miles I have to change back to 10-30.

It doesn't make sense which is why I am considering 15-40 Amsoil year round. For an engine that runs this hot I just think 10-30 is too thin when I get in it on a 100 degree day and drive from Salt Lake City to Sacramento or Reno at 85 mph.

My other consideration in that the wider the viscosity range the quicker the oil will shear. Even if I owned a new car I would NEVER put something like 5-40 or 0-30 in it. That may not be the case with Amsoil and other premium oils but I wouldn't feel comforatable taking the chance.


I'd go Delvac 1/M1 TDT 5w40. That's what I'm running in my old 302's. They seem to love it.

My grandmother had a '72 Eldorado, those cars are awesome!

Yes, I have thought about the Delvac 5-40 and you're right. The Eldo's were awesome. I ran into an 80 year old woman in a bar in Wells, NV one time. She knew more about cars than most men I know. She had a '76 Eldo with 260,000 miles on it and it had never had a head off. She was puttin' away the brew, too.