Best synthetic for High Rpm v-8 Corvette ??

[toocrazy2yoo]

What, you mean Wally-World 10W-40 isn't good enough?

With a nice E-core ST filter?

Sounds like a waste of money going any better than THAT!

ST oil and E-Core...Can it get ANY better?

 

[5abi6r]

ttt like short circuit.. 'need input' ..

 

[brucelee]

The highest HTST I know of is Redline 20-50. If this is the critical factor, use that oil!

 

[5abi6r]

i read somewhere a thinner oil can flow faster which would help keep parts cooler.. I just can't seem to get any info to help lean me towards a certain viscosity.. im hearing everything from 0-50

i think i am definitely going to submit a sample of the oil in the car before i choose a synthetic. But it wont be indicative of how hard the car 'will' be driven. I'd really like to wring it out After i switch to synthetic.

 

[dbvettez06]

I am running 800 HP with my supercharged Z06...Mobil 1 works for me, i do change it between 4500 and 5000 miles, just for the extra peace of mind...

 

[5abi6r]

dbvettez06 mind if i ask what viscosity you chose with mobil 1? I spoke to my builder today and he insists to stick with mobil 1 i just want to know which viscosity might be best for my application.

As for valve springs they are custom single beehives and we are not running high spring pressure at all. In fact he says he has people with hydraulic rollers running more spring pressure. the valve train consists of custom lightweight one-off t&d machine rockers, titanium locks, titanium retainers, hollow lightweight pushrods and gundrilled lightweight stainless valves. He said its so lightweight that even double springs weren't needed.

I was thinking to go a thinner voscosity for better flow and free up some hp since this is pretty much a highway beast so it should always remain fairly cool.

 

[Jason8691]

quote:

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Originally posted by dbvettez06:
I am running 800 HP with my supercharged Z06...Mobil 1 works for me, i do change it between 4500 and 5000 miles, just for the extra peace of mind...

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Wow! The Z06 was fast enough! What times are you looking at with that?

Oh yea, along the lines of Redline is Cosworth - same mentality used when making that oil.

 

[carock]

My observations when tearing down racing engines is that Redline rocks. Street engines last too long for me to make accurate observations.

 

[dbvettez06]

I am using mobil 1 5 x 30......From every thing i have researched, it is a very good choice....I have not run the car yet since some 'tweeks' i did last fall..I anticipate the car should run 136+ the quarter, ET will depend on my ability to try and launch it properly...Before the recent mods, i had run 11.10 @ 131 with a little wheel spin..

 

[buster]

door pillar of a June 2007 Euro spec C6 Z06

 

[JAG]

That's interesting that 0W-40 is recommended for the Euro spec C6 Z06. Is that version NOT sold in North America?

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

that is interesting, euro alway like 40 for the long high speed sessions they do.

What did your builder recommend? stock LT1s spec'd 10W-30 and LT4 probably 10W-30 or 5W-30. i knew a guy who only ran 15W-40 in his LT1, didn't seem to hurt. i tried it and did notice a slight loss in autox. You have a nice pan though that should help

 

[azsynthetic]

I run Redline 10w30 in my 1995 ZR-1.

 

[steve20]

Hey Z
I think you've been looking at too many hula dancers. LT1 is speced for 5-30

 

[steve20]

I think I've had too many beers-checked the manual 5-30 and 10-30 are recommended for the LT1

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

roger that, my 94 Z28 M6 is specd for 10W-30, at some point they got the Mobil 1 deal and started putting 5W-30 on the oil caps, like my friend's 99 SS (LS1)

at any rate i'm running PP 5W-30

 

[pickled]

Running sso in mine (LT4 with comp cam custom grind)...it seems to enjoy it. Previously ran Mobil 10w30 grade that was slightly noisier to the well "calibrated ear". I'll be evaluating SSO more thoroughly in the months to come.

 

[BuickGN]

I doubt the manual has any relevence here since the motor has completely been gone through.

 

[ProStreetCamaro]

I am surprised nobody here has cought this and made mention of it.

Why in the heck if your engine is designed to make max power at 7,000 would you want to rev it out close to 8,000? That is well above your peak power and will not be doing you any good other than to harm the engine. If who ever built your engine set the valve springs up according to what the cam manufacture recommends you very well could float the valves. Not only that but unless you did splayed 4 bolt main caps and not just the standard factory caps I would be leary of 8,000. Heck for that matter I sure hope you used the best fasteners that ARP makes because thats going to be huge stress on the rod bolts.

I know alllllllll about 383 strokers. Mine is 13.5:1 compression with a .650 lift solid roller cam topped with fully ported brodix track 1 heads, victor jr intake and a 1050 dominator carb.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: 5abi6r
dbvettez06 mind if i ask what viscosity you chose with mobil 1? I spoke to my builder today and he insists to stick with mobil 1 i just want to know which viscosity might be best for my application.

As for valve springs they are custom single beehives and we are not running high spring pressure at all. In fact he says he has people with hydraulic rollers running more spring pressure. the valve train consists of custom lightweight one-off t&d machine rockers, titanium locks, titanium retainers, hollow lightweight pushrods and gundrilled lightweight stainless valves. He said its so lightweight that even double springs weren't needed.

I was thinking to go a thinner voscosity for better flow and free up some hp since this is pretty much a highway beast so it should always remain fairly cool.


One of the points of double valve springs is insurance. I had beehives on my Mustang, and they are being swapped out for K-Motion K800's, which are a pretty heavy double spring. This was based on the recommendation of my cam grinder. He said it's insurance. Simply because the beehives are "good enough" for the aggressive nature of the camshaft, if one of them DOES break, the inner spring will at least provide some insurance to prevent the valve from kissing a piston and buggering the engine. A spring is a lot cheaper to replace than a whole engine