Best stuff for in-situ TB/IAC cleaning?

[addyguy]

2003 Mazda Tribute 3.0 Duratec V-6 in sig.

Is getting the 'long cranking' hard start and stiff throttle pedal that indicate it most likely needs a good throttle body and IAC cleaning.

I know the 'best' way to do this is to take the TB and IAC off and clean by hand...etc..but because of time, money, and lack of space this just isn't going to happen. If I do any cleaning, it will be remove air intake hose, and spray a cleaner at/on the TB, and clean it that way.

What is the best product/way to do this? I was just gonna buy some average TB cleaner from my work, remove the air hose, and spray small shots of it down the TB while the engine was running to clean what I could out.

Any ideas on better products to do this? Is Amsoil or Seafoam better? I've read about folks using brake cleaner to do this, is it stronger without causing harm? I don't object to 'blending' a special mix in a spray bottle if that would work best...

Any thoughts, would love to hear them!

 

[danthaman1980]

Do NOT use Chlorinated brake cleaner.

Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner will work, but not nearly as well as a dedicated carb/choke/throttle body cleaner. Brake cleaners are designed for fast evaporation, not for carbon removal.

I usually clean as much of the TB as possible with the engine off first (spray can of carb cleaner and a rag). Then start the engine and use the rest of then can to clean the manifold/valves.

 

[Ramblejam]

Just used the CRC product a few days ago for an in situ cleaning -- did a great job: http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05078

"With engine off, remove air intake duct to expose the throttle body. It may be necessary to remove the MAF Sensor. Place a rag under the throttle body to collect runoff. Attach straw to spray button. Manually move butterfly valve back and forth while spraying-do not spray continuously. Be sure to clean throttle linkages as this product will leave a lubricating residue."