I sprayed some tb cleaner and used an old toothbrush while working the throttle. I also sprayed a can through the air intake with the engine running. I had to spray pre map/maf sensor as the ecu would not let me spray tb cleaner directly on the throttle body with the engine running. Any harm in getting the sensor a bit wet? Is removal of the throttle body necessary to do a decent job of cleaning? How does a manual tb cleaning compare to just running some Amsoil PI or Redline S1 through the fuel system? Is a foaming solution such as Seafoam a better alternative?
Throttle Body Cleaning
- Thread starter byez
- Start date
- Status
I like to pull the TB off to clean it. Makes it a lot easier to get all the gunk out. Generally it's not too hard, even for a DIY'er. Once it's off, you can also give the intake manifold a good shot of cleaner.
Beware that some TB's have paper gaskets that come apart when removed. If you take it off it may be a good idea to just replace the gasket anyway, unless it's a heavy duty re-usable design.
The TB/Intake cleaner shouldn't harm the MAF sensor. If you look at the can, it generally says safe for MAF/MAP sensors.
Redline or comparative fuel system cleaners are just that. On modern fuel injected cars the fuel gets sprayed directly behind the valve. It never touches the upper intake manifold. The gunk in your throttle body/intake comes from incoming air and EGR passages. The gunk on your injectors/valves comes from low-quality, low-detergent, ethanol laden gasoline - which is ubiquitous today. Both intake and fuel systems need to be perodically cleaned.
Beware that some TB's have paper gaskets that come apart when removed. If you take it off it may be a good idea to just replace the gasket anyway, unless it's a heavy duty re-usable design.
The TB/Intake cleaner shouldn't harm the MAF sensor. If you look at the can, it generally says safe for MAF/MAP sensors.
Redline or comparative fuel system cleaners are just that. On modern fuel injected cars the fuel gets sprayed directly behind the valve. It never touches the upper intake manifold. The gunk in your throttle body/intake comes from incoming air and EGR passages. The gunk on your injectors/valves comes from low-quality, low-detergent, ethanol laden gasoline - which is ubiquitous today. Both intake and fuel systems need to be perodically cleaned.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2003
- Messages
- 23,587
Originally Posted By: AcuraTech
Beware that some TB's have paper gaskets that come apart when removed. If you take it off it may be a good idea to just replace the gasket anyway, unless it's a heavy duty re-usable design.
Polyperse wax/paper gaskets can easily be made out of old milk cartons. It's the exact same material.
Beware that some TB's have paper gaskets that come apart when removed. If you take it off it may be a good idea to just replace the gasket anyway, unless it's a heavy duty re-usable design.
Polyperse wax/paper gaskets can easily be made out of old milk cartons. It's the exact same material.
Residue from the cleaner can change the MAF readings.
That is why there is dedicated MAF cleaner.
Who knows how your sauce affected it?
Anyway, a manual cleaning of the TB is best - get that bore and plate down to the metal.
Any additive put in the tank won't do anything for the TB. It never sees it.
That is why there is dedicated MAF cleaner.
Who knows how your sauce affected it?
Anyway, a manual cleaning of the TB is best - get that bore and plate down to the metal.
Any additive put in the tank won't do anything for the TB. It never sees it.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2003
- Messages
- 23,587
My sauce? "Are you talkin' to me?" *says it in Travis Bickle voice*
Are there intakes in which the MAF is downstream of the TB?
Are there intakes in which the MAF is downstream of the TB?
Just to reiterate, some throttle bodies have deposit resistant coatings. Be careful of what you scrub off a TB. Cleaning it down to the metal could cause problems. I don't think I have ever removed a TB to clean it, to each his own. I have found a shotgun swab, soaked in TB cleaner, makes a nice gentle tool to get the gunk out.
Use only approved cleaners on MAF sensors. Cleaners that attack rubber or plastic or leave any residue can kill a MAF.
Use only approved cleaners on MAF sensors. Cleaners that attack rubber or plastic or leave any residue can kill a MAF.
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Are there intakes in which the MAF is downstream of the TB?
None that I am aware of. Although sometimes the MAF is basically clamped onto the TB, so if you just shoot some cleaner in without taking the MAF off, it will get on the MAF wires.
Are there intakes in which the MAF is downstream of the TB?
None that I am aware of. Although sometimes the MAF is basically clamped onto the TB, so if you just shoot some cleaner in without taking the MAF off, it will get on the MAF wires.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2003
- Messages
- 23,587
On my car the TB is way downstream of the MAF:
intake snorkel -> air filter -> MAF -> intake plenum -> throttle body
In order to clean the TB, the plenum has to be pulled off the TB. I'm one of those who removes the TB to clean it, because any other method is half-arsed. And no, punisher, my TB is does not contain any coatings.
intake snorkel -> air filter -> MAF -> intake plenum -> throttle body
In order to clean the TB, the plenum has to be pulled off the TB. I'm one of those who removes the TB to clean it, because any other method is half-arsed. And no, punisher, my TB is does not contain any coatings.
Originally Posted By: byez
I had to spray pre map/maf sensor as the ecu would not let me spray tb cleaner directly on the throttle body with the engine running.
The one vehicle I encountered that wouldn't run with the air intake duct disconnected, unplugging the MAF's electrical connector allowed it to run with the intake duct disconnected.
I had to spray pre map/maf sensor as the ecu would not let me spray tb cleaner directly on the throttle body with the engine running.
The one vehicle I encountered that wouldn't run with the air intake duct disconnected, unplugging the MAF's electrical connector allowed it to run with the intake duct disconnected.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2003
- Messages
- 23,587
Why anybody would want to wash down the TB deposits partially and have the engine ingest that automotive equivalent of snot is beyond me. Anybody who has removed a dirty TB knows how much cleaner and how much scrubbing is required to to a thorough job.
Would this "snot" just end up getting burnt off in the combustion process? I'm going to go buy a tb gasket and do a real job of cleaning it when I get some free time.
Thanks for all the great advice.
Is MAF cleaner overkill or can it just be cleaned off with some water?
Thanks for all the great advice.
Is MAF cleaner overkill or can it just be cleaned off with some water?
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2003
- Messages
- 23,587
Throttle body deposits appear resinous and cling tenaciously. I'm not sure if all of the dissolved deposits will even make it to the combustion chamber. A good amount of deposits may just be relocated into the intake manifold.
MAF cleaner or residue-less electronic parts cleaner works for cleaning a MAF. Using water is a no-no. Cleaning a MAF can prolong the service life of the part, but it can't repair damage. Pitting occurs invariably, and all the cleaning in the world won't help.
MAF cleaner or residue-less electronic parts cleaner works for cleaning a MAF. Using water is a no-no. Cleaning a MAF can prolong the service life of the part, but it can't repair damage. Pitting occurs invariably, and all the cleaning in the world won't help.
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Throttle body deposits appear resinous and cling tenaciously.
The throttle body cleaners I've used dissolve those deposits quite well, in the very rare case they are that bad. What you find in the throttle body is also, most likely, what's in the intake manifold.
I do know that using throttle body cleaner with the engine running makes the catalyst work more efficiently, based on manufacturer-specific values I've seen (with a scantool). Vehicles that were giving the P0430 or P0420 catalyst efficiency code stopped after using throttle body cleaner with the engine running. (The effect wasn't permanent, the code would come back after 10K to 15K miles, after which time another throttle body cleaning with the engine running made the code go away for another 10K to 15K miles).
What do you suppose they do during an "induction service"?
Throttle body deposits appear resinous and cling tenaciously.
The throttle body cleaners I've used dissolve those deposits quite well, in the very rare case they are that bad. What you find in the throttle body is also, most likely, what's in the intake manifold.
I do know that using throttle body cleaner with the engine running makes the catalyst work more efficiently, based on manufacturer-specific values I've seen (with a scantool). Vehicles that were giving the P0430 or P0420 catalyst efficiency code stopped after using throttle body cleaner with the engine running. (The effect wasn't permanent, the code would come back after 10K to 15K miles, after which time another throttle body cleaning with the engine running made the code go away for another 10K to 15K miles).
What do you suppose they do during an "induction service"?
Last edited:
dnewton3
Staff member
I prefer to remove the TB and clean it away from the engine. Don't want to wash the stuff down into lower intake and cylinders; the point to cleaning is getting stuff OUT of the engine, not deeper into it.
I've had good success (ignoring the Ford TB label) and cleaning it with brake cleaner.
Did the same procedure on a friend's 4-cylinder Camry. He got CEL codes for a couple days, then they cleared up and went away.
Both of us did this cleaning procedure to get that sticky stuff away from the butterfly plate, which was causing drivability problems.
I've had good success (ignoring the Ford TB label) and cleaning it with brake cleaner.
Did the same procedure on a friend's 4-cylinder Camry. He got CEL codes for a couple days, then they cleared up and went away.
Both of us did this cleaning procedure to get that sticky stuff away from the butterfly plate, which was causing drivability problems.
I remove and clean my TB every to every other oil change, so I am really getting quick at it. I just use the CRC branded TB cleaner in the red can and available at any auto part store and the carbon melts off easily. I use a nylon bristled gun cleaning brush and I am good to go in less than five minutes over some newspapers.
- Status