Best Road Bikes Under 1000 Dollars

[Brons2]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX

I even tried to rebuild the cassettes/sprockets myself when I found out that between parts and tools I'd be looking at $200. Forget that. I paid $295 for a nearly new bike needing nothing.


Nonsense. An 8 or 9 speed cassette can be had online for less than $30, new chain $10-$13, new chainwheels about $20 each. Tools: lockring removal tool $9, chain breaker $7. The other tools like a crescent wrench, you already have. Total $99. Next time $83 because you'll already have the tools.

But wait if you actually change your chain in a timely manner, you won't need a new casette or chainwheels, go figure. I change mine about every 2000-2500 miles.

 

[CycleGremlin]

Originally Posted By: Alex_Wills

You said ""One downside of the higher speed bikes seems to be lesser chain life.""
Your point is noteworthy!


From a "high mileage" acquaintance I got a different info. His experience with new (Shimano Ultegra) 10 speed chains has been they last more than 8 speed ones on his other bikes. Said they are built with better quality. He does about 10.000 km per year, if not more.
At the price difference they'd have to last at least twice as long, but I'm putting that to the test these days. Put a cycle computer (speedo and, most importantly odometer) on my bike, doing about 5000 per year. First tested chain is a cheap KMC Z50 - 8 speed chain that costs about 4 euros.
Next one will be KMC X-8 - 8 speed chain that has lasted me a whole year in the past. Costs about 15 euros.
Then, I'll mount Shimano Ultegra 6701, that goes for about 26 euros.

Same bike, same lubing and cleaning regimen, riding conditions as similar as possible without a lab. My guess is in a few years time, I'll have some newer data for comparison.

As for the topic, I agree with Miro - good fit, good wheelset - the rest will work as long as it's any decent quality. Clothes, as well (even more importantly) contact points - saddle, bars and pedals - that's where I'd first look for upgrades and, except for the saddle, they are usually cheap (if fit, not the lowest possible weight is sought).

In my experience, lower, just not bottom end groupset of any renowned manufacturer works fine. Most problems with low end stuff come from poor setup, tuning and/or maintenance, not from the bad equipment. Then people buy new stuff, get it installed properly and get amazed at how well it works.

For the OP: Good list, good idea to make it. I have some "objections" and will explain them here:

I'd strip the GMC denali off the list, since it has a threaded for with a quill stem. For safety reasons. The bars are held in place by just one bolt with a quill at the end. Deep inside the fork. And it flexes - allowing the moisture intrusion, corrosion. Which is worse - it can break without any warning. The modern a-head (threadless) patent is held by 2 bolts at the fork, and (the good ones are) 4 bolts at the bar end. Much safer option - even if one bolt fails, it's clearly visible and can be replaced in time, checked.

Schwinn Phocus 1600 has the exotic spoke pattern that doesn't look very durable and I see no point in having that on a budget bike.
Schwinn Men's Phocus 1400 - same.

Kestrel Legend - too few spokes up front, radially laced. I'd not trust that. If racing and trying to reduce any drag - fine. As long as it's regularly inspected. For a beginner/recreation I see no point. One spoke breaking would cause that wheel to lock up - thinking of a fast windy descent (where most braking loads the front wheel with almost the whole weight). Wheels with 32+ spokes (my preference is 36) don't even scratch the brake pads when one spoke breaks.

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
Originally Posted By: 69GTX

I even tried to rebuild the cassettes/sprockets myself when I found out that between parts and tools I'd be looking at $200. Forget that. I paid $295 for a nearly new bike needing nothing.


Nonsense. An 8 or 9 speed cassette can be had online for less than $30, new chain $10-$13, new chainwheels about $20 each. Tools: lockring removal tool $9, chain breaker $7. The other tools like a crescent wrench, you already have. Total $99. Next time $83 because you'll already have the tools.

But wait if you actually change your chain in a timely manner, you won't need a new casette or chainwheels, go figure. I change mine about every 2000-2500 miles.


I added it all up for my 21 speed Raleigh Sport. It was $200. And that assumes I could get the crank/hub/drive apart. I tried that on my 1977 Raleigh and realized it was futile. Also add in new bearings, brakes, cables, spokes, rims(?), shifters/derailleurs, etc. and other parts that are worn out at 10,000 miles. Before you know it, you could have bought a nearly new bike for the same money. If I can buy a nearly new $200-$300 bike every 6-10 yrs, why even bother with a rebuild? I probably only have 5-10 years left of frequent riding as my back/hips/knees slowly degrade.

The fact is I did get 10,000 miles/8-10 yrs of my Raleigh Sport by not fixing anything mechanical. Had I kept up on all that stuff along the way, including tuneups at $60 each, you're looking at 2X the cost of the original bike. In the end, my bike cost me $50/yr which includes several tires/tubes. Good thing I didn't waste any time replacing wear parts along the way as it would have been money down the drain in retrospect. But, I have a feeling I will never get 10,000 miles on a road bike like this again without parts replacements.

I just took my "mountain" bike (only sees flat roads) in for a new chain after 2,000 miles and the new chain slipped. The tech said he thinks the Cassette is worn out....after 2000 flat pedaling miles? The old chain never slipped on me, not once. And it took over 8,000 miles on the Raleigh before I got my first chain slip. Maybe I should have just left the mountain bike alone! The chain/cassette ($60) will end up being over 1/3 the value of the bike ($150 bike value?). Everything keeps pointing to running them into the ground and then starting over.

 

[CycleGremlin]

Running it to the ground is the cheapest way for lower end bikes definitely.

Potential problems are: worn chain is more likely to break, which can be a nuisance during a climb for example (even a liability if it breaks while a car is overtaking you and you're going hard on the left pedal).

I've always serviced my own bikes, so the "tune up" cost was just the parts (and some grease). Even then, for a cheap bike used on flat roads, running it all to the ground is the cheapest option, at least for chain, sprockets and chainrings. As for hubs and other bearings, unless you put a high price on the time you spend servicing them - annual overhaul and one dollar change of new bearing balls makes them last very, very long time.

 

[dgunay]

Sorry for joining the party late, but I would like to share my opinions as well. I currently own two road bikes. 2017 Giant Defy Advanced 1 Disc (less than 30 miles) and 2015 Giant Defy 1 (around 1200 miles).

The bikes on the list are all [censored]. I am sure you can find a better bike under $1000.

Regardless of the price of a bike, you should know your body proportions well before purchasing bike. For instance, I am 6'1" with long torso/short legs and most people think you should get a L size if you are over 5'9. However, I don't feel comfortable with L size (size 56 for some bikes), so had to get 54/52. You can do the bike fit yourself, and save some money. However, you should take your time and do your research. Since you have been riding for 10 years, I assume you already know the basics of bike fitting.

Trek, Giant, Specialized, Scott, Cannondale etc.. are all top tier brands. I personally like Giant because you usually get the most bike for the money. It is also the largest bicycle manufacturer in the world. Just make sure that it fits you well. ALSO, you should choose a good local bike shop, as it is more important than the brand. Please avoid department store bikes, and support your local bike shop. If you pick a good LBS, you'd enjoy your bike even more.

In regards to the groupset, although you have a tight budget, I would not buy a bike with low end derailleurs. Try to get a bike with Tiagra groupset (or better one), it will last longer compared to entry level derailleurs.

Here is an example for almost $1000, which comes with the mid-range Tiagra groupset and disc brakes.

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/contend-sl-disc-2