Best Practices for Track/Street use - Lotus Emira

[JavierH19]

That is the filter.

So the hose would be a one time thing to make future oil changes easier?

3-4k makes sense. 2.5k seems overkill.

Yes you can reroute the drain bolt so you can dump the oil frequently without hassle. Could even put a valve on the end but is the drain bolt vertical or horizontal. If it's vertical you'll need a 90 deg fitting but if it's horizontal or horizontal enough then just a straight rubber oil hose is easier to get. You may be able to buy one but if not any hose place should be able to crimp the fittings on which you'll likely need to bring but i've had many custom hydraulic hoses made before and they don't charge much. As for the filter if you use something like a fram ultra cartridge and the engine is clean which I imagine yours is then I don't see why you can't run it for at least 3 or 4 short runs.

Some examples but they look short. I don't know what drain bolt thread that car has.

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Oil-Changing-Hose-M12x1-5/dp/B0C6XMBF26

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Oil...d7-a6b0-684079ca56ff&pd_rd_i=B0C6XP69S6&psc=1

 

[edyvw]

The factory spec is 0w40. I wonder why they do that? I'm always leery about going out of spec.

Cold starts, daily driving.
Unless you are driving it daily and starting vehicle at temperatures below -35, you don’t need it.
0W40 oils such as Mobil1 are superb oils fir street and light track use. But my understanding is that you are using this vehicle a lot on track and trying to avoid frequent changes.
Generally, all things equal (same family of oils such as 300V) less spread between Xw and XX, more shear stable oil is.
Motul offers 300V 0W40 too that showed excellent UOA in 5k OCI and numerous track days (I will try to find UOA somewhere here). But 10W40 is better choice.
Or you can go HPL that is recommended too. Redline is another good one.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

0W40 is a grade. A 5W40 effectively is the same viscosity...they are 40 grades falling within the 40 grade range at 100 deg C so 12.5 to ~16 cSt. The 0 winter rating part really isn't material unless it's very cold where you are. Looks like they call for an A3/B4 so basically a Euro 40 with VW502 Porsche A40 etc. You can use any grade meeting that requirement so not locked in to a 0W40 even though that's fine. Again..HPL 5W40 Euro would be perfect here and has slightly higher HTHS than their 0W40 product and is great for track use with longer drains. Note that while HPLs products are intended to act like oils with the actual approvals in terms of their specifications they have no formal approvals. This shouldn't be an issue or concern by someone tracking a performance car, these products are top of the line and will exceed the performance of the Castrol you are using (not that there is anything wrong with that oil).

This makes sense. I'm in Miami, so the 0 for cold is not a concern.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

This filter is brutal. It only leaked after the 5 and 6th track day. It was a bumpy track - Sebring International. I took it all apart. 3 hours with a test drive. I still need to put it back together.

The filter canister butts up against the block. So you can't even tighten it more. Fine if it didn't leak. If I was doing a car I know, I'd be 1/2 to 3/4 turn away from being dine. *** is that about?

I think the little door is for access to the drain plug. But not the filter. A C8 has a little hole for the filter maintenance.

 

[TiGeo]

This makes sense. I'm in Miami, so the 0 for cold is not a concern.

Exactly. You can certainly use that grade but it's not necessary vs. say a 5W40 like I've recommended. Likewise, VW says I should run a VW502 oil in the 5W40 grade and I can certainly run one (that has the VW502 approval) that is a 0W without issue.

 

[scrllock]

Not sure how different these are from the Evora GT, I assumed the motor was almost identical to the V6 Emira. My main track buddy has one and I've spent a lot of time in/around it.

Both of his Lotus dealers have used M1 0w40, it was never an issue. He's moving to a dry sump this year but that's only to run full slicks. The lotus pan, or at least the one he has, is very nicely baffled with trapdoors. No issues with oil pressure on super 200tw tires. The oil filter is quite easy to change, at least with the proper toyota filter socket. Must be the emira has way more bolts? The evora is maybe 15, not really hard to get to.

Practically speaking the main benefit to M1 0w40 is it's a little cheaper/easier to find here than Castrol 0w40. Either are suitable for a stock power car on track, Lotus expects you to take it to the track and use it. Only dealer that's ever given me keys to a loaner and let me do some laps, no paperwork needed.

If you added power or start modifying the engine I could see the value in changing grades, or if you want to ball out, 300V is certainly a very good option. But it sounds like oil changes are a hassle, so I'd probably stick with the pedestrian stuff.

 

[edyvw]

This filter is brutal. It only leaked after the 5 and 6th track day. It was a bumpy track - Sebring International. I took it all apart. 3 hours with a test drive. I still need to put it back together.

The filter canister butts up against the block. So you can't even tighten it more. Fine if it didn't leak. If I was doing a car I know, I'd be 1/2 to 3/4 turn away from being dine. *** is that about?

I think the little door is for access to the drain plug. But not the filter. A C8 has a little hole for the filter maintenance.

View attachment 271653View attachment 271654

It is a typical 2GR-FE filter. There is nothing special about it.
That little "door" is access to drain oil from the filter so you don't get soaked. I realized when I had this engine in Toyota that half a time it makes things worse. But it is potentially a place where if you do play with it, you must make sure you put a new gasket and tighten it properly.

 

[edyvw]

This makes sense. I'm in Miami, so the 0 for cold is not a concern.

You can use 15W40 if you want all year round.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

It is a typical 2GR-FE filter. There is nothing special about it.
That little "door" is access to drain oil from the filter so you don't get soaked. I realized when I had this engine in Toyota that half a time it makes things worse. But it is potentially a place where if you do play with it, you must make sure you put a new gasket and tighten it properly.

The car was leaking from the filter. But not for the first 3000 miles. I don't get it. The way it setup, you can't really tighten it more.

Basically a 4 hour job without a lift. Dealers charge 500-1500.

So I swapped the filter. But is it just going to start leaking in a few thousand miles?

 

[chriscpmtmp]

You can use 15W40 if you want all year round.

My post back in the day was for our ski boats. The spec was 15w-40. But some guys would buy m1 5w-30. The consensus was 15 was better. We floor it, drive at 3500 rpm for 25 seconds. Stop. Repeat 6-8 times for a set. St least two skiers. Sometimes 3-4.

So my brain says if 5 is better than 0, the 10 or 15 is better than 5. Right?

 

[chriscpmtmp]

Not sure how different these are from the Evora GT, I assumed the motor was almost identical to the V6 Emira. My main track buddy has one and I've spent a lot of time in/around it.

Both of his Lotus dealers have used M1 0w40, it was never an issue. He's moving to a dry sump this year but that's only to run full slicks. The lotus pan, or at least the one he has, is very nicely baffled with trapdoors. No issues with oil pressure on super 200tw tires. The oil filter is quite easy to change, at least with the proper toyota filter socket. Must be the emira has way more bolts? The evora is maybe 15, not really hard to get to.

Practically speaking the main benefit to M1 0w40 is it's a little cheaper/easier to find here than Castrol 0w40. Either are suitable for a stock power car on track, Lotus expects you to take it to the track and use it. Only dealer that's ever given me keys to a loaner and let me do some laps, no paperwork needed.

If you added power or start modifying the engine I could see the value in changing grades, or if you want to ball out, 300V is certainly a very good option. But it sounds like oil changes are a hassle, so I'd probably stick with the pedestrian stuff.

My buddy has two Evora's. It is the same basic engine. A few tweaks.

On his street car, he did a mod to the supercharger. 80-100 more hp. I'd worry about that. It's 400 stock.

I'm trying to avoid mods. I'll spend on track time, brakes and tires.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

I did make it to track day. No more oil leaks.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

It is a typical 2GR-FE filter. There is nothing special about it.
That little "door" is access to drain oil from the filter so you don't get soaked. I realized when I had this engine in Toyota that half a time it makes things worse. But it is potentially a place where if you do play with it, you must make sure you put a new gasket and tighten it properly.

The filter swap was easy. It's the big metal piece. 35 bolts. Front tires propped with boards. Back side with jack stands. Not much room. I have a cordless impact. A long job.

 

[Rand]

My post back in the day was for our ski boats. The spec was 15w-40. But some guys would buy m1 5w-30. The consensus was 15 was better. We floor it, drive at 3500 rpm for 25 seconds. Stop. Repeat 6-8 times for a set. St least two skiers. Sometimes 3-4.

So my brain says if 5 is better than 0, the 10 or 15 is better than 5. Right?

depends on the oil
you can make a 15w40 with "cheaper components" so all things arent equal when comparing a 5w40 and 15w40 for example.
IIRC: @OVERKILL posted a chart that showed delvac 1300 15w40 is group II for example.

Now delvac extreme 15w40 syn vs 5w40 maybe.

 

[chriscpmtmp]

Mobil1 0W40 is good.
However if you are out of warranty, switch to track specific, more robust oil if you are tracking a lot.
Motul 300V 10W40 would be my go to oil. Expensive? Yes.
If that is too much money ($40 for 2ltr) try Motul Power 5W40 (not sure does it exist in 10W40).
HPL is another good one for track and extended OCI. Euro 5W40 or BAS 5W40.
What is your oil temperature on track?

It's crazy, but no oil temp on this car. Not even through the OBD. Annoying.

I'm curious what the oil report says. I have 6 or do track days on that batch. If it's bad, then I'll get better oil.

 

[edyvw]

depends on the oil
you can make a 15w40 with "cheaper components" so all things arent equal when comparing a 5w40 and 15w40 for example.
IIRC: @OVERKILL posted a chart that showed delvac 1300 15w40 is group II for example.

Now delvac extreme 15w40 syn vs 5w40 maybe.

This!

 

[edyvw]

The car was leaking from the filter. But not for the first 3000 miles. I don't get it. The way it setup, you can't really tighten it more.

Basically a 4 hour job without a lift. Dealers charge 500-1500.

So I swapped the filter. But is it just going to start leaking in a few thousand miles?

Gasket? Housing? Which filter you used? Personally, I would go OE Toyota if filter is the same.

 

[scrllock]

The car was leaking from the filter. But not for the first 3000 miles. I don't get it. The way it setup, you can't really tighten it more.

Basically a 4 hour job without a lift. Dealers charge 500-1500.

So I swapped the filter. But is it just going to start leaking in a few thousand miles?

How is it 4 hours? That must be luxury tax on book rate.

We've done it in about 30-40 mins on ramps, not including watching it drain. With the proper tools it's nothing special. Electric ratchet/impact for the tray bolts, toyota oil filter wrench, and a funnel with a flexible hose to get past the body.

 

[CarlB]

That looks expensive. I'm leaning now though.

Ok, be mindful of long sweepers. I know a few folks that have blown-up that V6.