What I have learnt from my own experience and from reading different forums is that there is no point to use anything but OEM filters. In certain applications aftermarket filters might be OK to use but you never know it for sure. For how long and how often the bypass valve opens are unknowns. For how long and to what extent the bearings starve for oil because of the filter are unknowns too. The filter build quality is a factor too. I have seen holes in the filter media in the aftermarket filters. Nothing like that in the OEM filters even if they are made by the same filter manufacturer.
Best oil filter from reading this forum.
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Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I compiled a list from 2012 what BITOG'ers were using, and the PureOne was very popular at #1 reported useage.
The number to the left is the ranking, the number to the right is the number of filters used on the BITOG oil change thread.
1 Pure One 147
2 Motorcraft 119
3 Puro Classic 97
4 Wix 64
5 Mobil 1 48
6 AC Delco 42
7 Napa Gold 41
8 Toyota OEM 32
9 Bosch D+ 31
10 K&N 27
11 Other OEM 26
12 Fram Extra Guard 25
13 Hyundai/KIA OEM 24
14 Mann 24
15 Other Store Brand 23
16 Bosch Premium 20
17 Fram Tough Guard 17
18 Amsoil 13
19 Royal Purple 13
20 Fram Ultra/Extended 12
21 Quaker State 12
22 Mopar 11
23 Baldwin 11
24 MicroGard 10
25 Honda OEM 8
26 Super Tech 8
27 BMW OEM 8
28 Napa ProSelect 7
29 Casite 7
30 Driveworks 5
31 DENSO 5
32 Mahle 5
33 Napa Silver 4
34 Hengst 4
35 Valvoline 4
36 Napa/Wix syn 3
37 STP 3
38 Purolator Synthetic 3
39 Hastings 2
40 Fram High Mileage 2
41 MicroGreen 2
42 Champ 2
43 Pennzoil 2
44 Fleetguard 2
45 Knecht 1
There's a lot to like with a PureOne, I can't use them on the Jeep they are bad for rattle but they work fine on our other vehicles. Tough Guards on the other hand filter just as well as a PureOne at 99% and start up problems disappear.
Down the line, how many folks will be left stranded along side the road with a worn out/ failed engine because they had chosen filter #12 over filter #1 ??
None I'd wager. That was entirely a popularity poll here on BITOG for curiousity's sake, and had nothing to do with function, longevity or anything of that nature.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I compiled a list from 2012 what BITOG'ers were using, and the PureOne was very popular at #1 reported useage.
The number to the left is the ranking, the number to the right is the number of filters used on the BITOG oil change thread.
1 Pure One 147
2 Motorcraft 119
3 Puro Classic 97
4 Wix 64
5 Mobil 1 48
6 AC Delco 42
7 Napa Gold 41
8 Toyota OEM 32
9 Bosch D+ 31
10 K&N 27
11 Other OEM 26
12 Fram Extra Guard 25
13 Hyundai/KIA OEM 24
14 Mann 24
15 Other Store Brand 23
16 Bosch Premium 20
17 Fram Tough Guard 17
18 Amsoil 13
19 Royal Purple 13
20 Fram Ultra/Extended 12
21 Quaker State 12
22 Mopar 11
23 Baldwin 11
24 MicroGard 10
25 Honda OEM 8
26 Super Tech 8
27 BMW OEM 8
28 Napa ProSelect 7
29 Casite 7
30 Driveworks 5
31 DENSO 5
32 Mahle 5
33 Napa Silver 4
34 Hengst 4
35 Valvoline 4
36 Napa/Wix syn 3
37 STP 3
38 Purolator Synthetic 3
39 Hastings 2
40 Fram High Mileage 2
41 MicroGreen 2
42 Champ 2
43 Pennzoil 2
44 Fleetguard 2
45 Knecht 1
There's a lot to like with a PureOne, I can't use them on the Jeep they are bad for rattle but they work fine on our other vehicles. Tough Guards on the other hand filter just as well as a PureOne at 99% and start up problems disappear.
Down the line, how many folks will be left stranded along side the road with a worn out/ failed engine because they had chosen filter #12 over filter #1 ??
None I'd wager. That was entirely a popularity poll here on BITOG for curiousity's sake, and had nothing to do with function, longevity or anything of that nature.
Originally Posted By: Prelude
What I have learnt from my own experience and from reading different forums is that there is no point to use anything but OEM filters. In certain applications aftermarket filters might be OK to use but you never know it for sure. For how long and how often the bypass valve opens are unknowns. For how long and to what extent the bearings starve for oil because of the filter are unknowns too. The filter build quality is a factor too. I have seen holes in the filter media in the aftermarket filters. Nothing like that in the OEM filters even if they are made by the same filter manufacturer.
Per Jim Allens on-board PSID instrumented "test truck", the oil filter rarely goes into bypass, and it only really occurs when the oil is cold and thick, and the driver revs the engine up pretty good when cold.
And if the filter does go into bypass mode, the engine is still getting the same oil flow volume (with a small part unfiltered) as long as the positive displacement oil pump is not in pressure relief (key point). In other words, when a positive displacement oil pump is below it's pressure relief point, all oil that it displaces/forces to the engine & filter must go through the engine & filter.
So, bottom line is keep you engine revs low until the oil temperature comes up some and you won't have to worry about the filter going into bypass or the oil pump going into pressure relief.
What I have learnt from my own experience and from reading different forums is that there is no point to use anything but OEM filters. In certain applications aftermarket filters might be OK to use but you never know it for sure. For how long and how often the bypass valve opens are unknowns. For how long and to what extent the bearings starve for oil because of the filter are unknowns too. The filter build quality is a factor too. I have seen holes in the filter media in the aftermarket filters. Nothing like that in the OEM filters even if they are made by the same filter manufacturer.
Per Jim Allens on-board PSID instrumented "test truck", the oil filter rarely goes into bypass, and it only really occurs when the oil is cold and thick, and the driver revs the engine up pretty good when cold.
And if the filter does go into bypass mode, the engine is still getting the same oil flow volume (with a small part unfiltered) as long as the positive displacement oil pump is not in pressure relief (key point). In other words, when a positive displacement oil pump is below it's pressure relief point, all oil that it displaces/forces to the engine & filter must go through the engine & filter.
So, bottom line is keep you engine revs low until the oil temperature comes up some and you won't have to worry about the filter going into bypass or the oil pump going into pressure relief.
ZeeOSix, I have read your opinion in multiple threads. And I think it makes sense as a theory if we assume there are no losses in the pump. In practice a low resistance OEM filter can make an engine to run quieter with a higher pressure in the system. According to your theory this is just impossible.
Originally Posted By: Prelude
ZeeOSix, I have read your opinion in multiple threads. And I think it makes sense as a theory if we assume there are no losses in the pump. In practice a low resistance OEM filter can make an engine to run quieter with a higher pressure in the system. According to your theory this is just impossible.
Not quite following you, but if an oil pump is weak and worn out (ie, lots of toroid leakage), then a more restrictive oil filter might have a slight effect. Not sure if you're fully understanding how a positive displacement oiling system works with a pressure relief valve, and the filter with it's own pressure bypass valve.
Keep in mind that in most automotive oiling systems the the oiling system itself is typically 15 times more restrictive than an oil filter. So, that being the case, why would an oil pump fall flat on it's face and not be able to handle a few more PSI of flow resistance when a different oil filter is use when it's already pushing against 40~50 PSI when going down the freeway? An oil filter is basically invisible to a positive displacement oil pump in good shape until the pump goes into pressure relief mode.
I don't know about other cars, but with my Z06 which has on-board oil temp and pressure sensors, I get the same exact oil pressure at same engine RPM and oil temp with 4 or 5 different oil filters that I've used on that car. If a car actually does have different oil pressure due to an oil filter, then that oiling system is sub-par or not a true positive displacement design ... or something else is going on that people are not fully understanding.
ZeeOSix, I have read your opinion in multiple threads. And I think it makes sense as a theory if we assume there are no losses in the pump. In practice a low resistance OEM filter can make an engine to run quieter with a higher pressure in the system. According to your theory this is just impossible.
Not quite following you, but if an oil pump is weak and worn out (ie, lots of toroid leakage), then a more restrictive oil filter might have a slight effect. Not sure if you're fully understanding how a positive displacement oiling system works with a pressure relief valve, and the filter with it's own pressure bypass valve.
Keep in mind that in most automotive oiling systems the the oiling system itself is typically 15 times more restrictive than an oil filter. So, that being the case, why would an oil pump fall flat on it's face and not be able to handle a few more PSI of flow resistance when a different oil filter is use when it's already pushing against 40~50 PSI when going down the freeway? An oil filter is basically invisible to a positive displacement oil pump in good shape until the pump goes into pressure relief mode.
I don't know about other cars, but with my Z06 which has on-board oil temp and pressure sensors, I get the same exact oil pressure at same engine RPM and oil temp with 4 or 5 different oil filters that I've used on that car. If a car actually does have different oil pressure due to an oil filter, then that oiling system is sub-par or not a true positive displacement design ... or something else is going on that people are not fully understanding.
Well stated ZeeOSix. I too have never seen any difference in oil pressure based on the oil filter used. I have seen differences in pressure between oil viscosity. PureOne seems to be the best bang for the buck in a high quality filter.
Found this and though it would be fun to bring it back to the top. What a difference a year makes.
Can't go wrong with Royal Purple or Mobil 1 Filters.
Again the best oil filter is a high quality air filter and well sealed intake plumbing. In real life decent quality mfg oil filter will be all that is needed. Buy name brand as they will be there if an oil filter fails and lunches your motor.
Still lots of good filters on the market today. FU may be the most highly touted on this forum in recent months, and for good reason too, but not many users ever utilize it to its full 15k potential. The best filter out there is the filter that will give you the best value for the miles you plan to put on a given OCI or two, which may or may not be the FU.
Not a FRAM fanboy, but given that the average price for a FU is $9 at Walmart, it really is a no brainer in terms of what filter delivers the best value (assuming you run the filter 12-15k).
Not a FRAM fanboy, but given that the average price for a FU is $9 at Walmart, it really is a no brainer in terms of what filter delivers the best value (assuming you run the filter 12-15k).
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