I was also denied an MSDS for Slide Glide. I don't really like snot in my guns anyway.
Best gun oil?
- Thread starter DrDusty86
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Any guess as to what is in it? Just curious.
Gentlemen, I come bearing information! I saw people mentioning the absence of an MSDS for Slide Glide, and I managed to snag one while I was searching for Wipe-Out Patch-Out's. From what I've pieced together, someone else is formulating Slide Glide for Mr. Enos, who did not have an MSDS for the product until ~2007.
For future reference, if one is having trouble getting an MSDS from the manufacturer, the distributors (i.e. Brownells) are usually happy to cough one up. Remember though, consumers are not entitled to an MSDS by law. Anyone in possession of one (which is not restricted by a NDA) can give you a copy, but they don't have to unless you're an employer or an employee of a company using the product.
You can find both the Slide Glide MSDS and the MSDS for Wipe-Out Patch-Out, among others I've collected, here: (link)
I have no interest in Slide Glide so I'll leave the analysis up to others.
Patch-Out is a good product in my experience and I've conversed with Mr. Paul before. He never got back to me about the MSDS though. I'm not sure why, as it looks alright to me. N-Methyl 2 pyrrolidone (WHO report.
California reports NMP as a potential reproductive hazard (at least, in rats and possibly people who work with the pure stuff daily, though there have been no studies).
Most (all?) solvents have nasty side effects, but this doesn't seem to be too bad in comparison (at least if you're not a pregnant woman using it daily). I can't find much human related information though, as everything either comes back to "studies seem to suggest" (rats) or anecdotal references to a possible single case of a problem.
Patch-Out seems to be a big favorite in the bench-rest crowd, and I've never heard of somebody claiming a superior general bore cleaner. The MSDS makes me wonder though--at the end of the day, is it just a paint stripper and alcohol? Thoughts?
For future reference, if one is having trouble getting an MSDS from the manufacturer, the distributors (i.e. Brownells) are usually happy to cough one up. Remember though, consumers are not entitled to an MSDS by law. Anyone in possession of one (which is not restricted by a NDA) can give you a copy, but they don't have to unless you're an employer or an employee of a company using the product.
You can find both the Slide Glide MSDS and the MSDS for Wipe-Out Patch-Out, among others I've collected, here: (link)
I have no interest in Slide Glide so I'll leave the analysis up to others.
Patch-Out is a good product in my experience and I've conversed with Mr. Paul before. He never got back to me about the MSDS though. I'm not sure why, as it looks alright to me. N-Methyl 2 pyrrolidone (WHO report.
California reports NMP as a potential reproductive hazard (at least, in rats and possibly people who work with the pure stuff daily, though there have been no studies).
Most (all?) solvents have nasty side effects, but this doesn't seem to be too bad in comparison (at least if you're not a pregnant woman using it daily). I can't find much human related information though, as everything either comes back to "studies seem to suggest" (rats) or anecdotal references to a possible single case of a problem.
Patch-Out seems to be a big favorite in the bench-rest crowd, and I've never heard of somebody claiming a superior general bore cleaner. The MSDS makes me wonder though--at the end of the day, is it just a paint stripper and alcohol? Thoughts?
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Quid Quo, Thanks for all the good information and good job gathering all that for us.
Another over priced, over hyped, weapon's care product debunked! Slide Glide = Lithium complex based bicycle bearing grease... lol
You are right about patch out also, you could probably mix this stuff yourself and make it for less than $10 per gallon.
The above information EXACTLY why I stress staying away from the expensive "wonder" gun care products that claim to be the end all, be all product of the century. As we can see, some simple studying of MSDS and research proves there are very few products that are actually worth the asking price. This just furthers my argument that price to performance ratio of weapon related products really DOES matter and should be carefully considered unless you are made of money.
My answers for what the "best" gun oils are:
Corrosion X- $82/Gallon
Breakfree CLP- $65/Gallon
Ballistol- $65/Gallon
The "best" gun greases:
Super lube synthetic grease with syncolon- $6/3 oz
Pro shot Pro gold grease- $4/1oz
Rig +P Stainless Steel grease- $4/1.5 oz
Another over priced, over hyped, weapon's care product debunked! Slide Glide = Lithium complex based bicycle bearing grease... lol
You are right about patch out also, you could probably mix this stuff yourself and make it for less than $10 per gallon.
The above information EXACTLY why I stress staying away from the expensive "wonder" gun care products that claim to be the end all, be all product of the century. As we can see, some simple studying of MSDS and research proves there are very few products that are actually worth the asking price. This just furthers my argument that price to performance ratio of weapon related products really DOES matter and should be carefully considered unless you are made of money.
My answers for what the "best" gun oils are:
Corrosion X- $82/Gallon
Breakfree CLP- $65/Gallon
Ballistol- $65/Gallon
The "best" gun greases:
Super lube synthetic grease with syncolon- $6/3 oz
Pro shot Pro gold grease- $4/1oz
Rig +P Stainless Steel grease- $4/1.5 oz
QuidQuo..... you rock.... thanks!!!
Brad
(you too AMC!)
Brad
(you too AMC!)
I'd like to add:
Simple Green Aircraft cleaner $17/gallon.
http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html
Aeroshell Fluid 18 $36/gallon
http://www.skygeek.com/aeroshell-fluid-18-gallon.html
Aeroshell Grease 33 $17/14oz.
Be careful using household Simple Green on anything aluminum. It's a base and will eat anodizing and the bare aluminum that's under the anodizing. The Aircraft cleaner I linked to is aluminum safe, cuz that's what planes are made out of.
BSW
Simple Green Aircraft cleaner $17/gallon.
http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html
Aeroshell Fluid 18 $36/gallon
http://www.skygeek.com/aeroshell-fluid-18-gallon.html
Aeroshell Grease 33 $17/14oz.
Be careful using household Simple Green on anything aluminum. It's a base and will eat anodizing and the bare aluminum that's under the anodizing. The Aircraft cleaner I linked to is aluminum safe, cuz that's what planes are made out of.
BSW
Originally Posted By: engineerscott
Originally Posted By: Lost1
Originally Posted By: engineerscott
Originally Posted By: Lost1
To clean the bore- WD-40 & Hoppes #9
To clean the action- WD-40 & Hoppes #9
Lubrication- WD-40 & Rem Oil
Corrosion prevention- WD-40
Long term storage- Hoppes Gun Grease
Got to slightly disagree with you. WD-40 isn't much of a lubricant. It's got plenty of solvent in it so it cleans pretty well. It displaces water (hence the "WD" (Water Displacing) in WD-40) so it good for things that have gotten wet, but lubrication isn't its strong suite. If you are using Remington oil after WD-40 then I suppose you're ok on lubrication but it is an unnecessary step.
I agree that WD-40 isn't the best lube in a high-stress area, but I've been using it for over 40 years in low-friction/low-stress areas (parts of the action) and for corrosion control and it works great for me. Hoppe's & Rem Oil handle the rest.
Hard to argue with success. You're right, in low stress areas the lubricity of WD-40 is probably fine. I just get a little sensitive about people who use WD-40 as a general purpose lubricant when it really wasn't designed for that task, but obviously it is working as you are using it.
completely off topic but this reminds me of many conversations ive had with other motorcyclist: AND WD-40 is not considered a chain lube, but i know many that swear by it.. and a motorcycle chain is a high stress test.. now if i can get 25,000 out of my chain using brand x and you can get 25,000 out of your chain using WD-40, who's right ? Ive used wd on some firearms before and been satisfied with the results.. 2 pennies.. I also agree in many situations its not the chemical so much as the attention the item being serviced gets and how often.
Originally Posted By: Lost1
Originally Posted By: engineerscott
Originally Posted By: Lost1
To clean the bore- WD-40 & Hoppes #9
To clean the action- WD-40 & Hoppes #9
Lubrication- WD-40 & Rem Oil
Corrosion prevention- WD-40
Long term storage- Hoppes Gun Grease
Got to slightly disagree with you. WD-40 isn't much of a lubricant. It's got plenty of solvent in it so it cleans pretty well. It displaces water (hence the "WD" (Water Displacing) in WD-40) so it good for things that have gotten wet, but lubrication isn't its strong suite. If you are using Remington oil after WD-40 then I suppose you're ok on lubrication but it is an unnecessary step.
I agree that WD-40 isn't the best lube in a high-stress area, but I've been using it for over 40 years in low-friction/low-stress areas (parts of the action) and for corrosion control and it works great for me. Hoppe's & Rem Oil handle the rest.
Hard to argue with success. You're right, in low stress areas the lubricity of WD-40 is probably fine. I just get a little sensitive about people who use WD-40 as a general purpose lubricant when it really wasn't designed for that task, but obviously it is working as you are using it.
completely off topic but this reminds me of many conversations ive had with other motorcyclist: AND WD-40 is not considered a chain lube, but i know many that swear by it.. and a motorcycle chain is a high stress test.. now if i can get 25,000 out of my chain using brand x and you can get 25,000 out of your chain using WD-40, who's right ? Ive used wd on some firearms before and been satisfied with the results.. 2 pennies.. I also agree in many situations its not the chemical so much as the attention the item being serviced gets and how often.
For lubricating Breakfree CLP.
Hoppes #9 for cleaning.
Hoppes #9 for cleaning.
I have tried all kinds of fancy gun lubes and what I find works the best:
CLP for oil
Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease, for when you need grease.
Mobil 1 ATF for when you need something a bit more than CLP.
I was shooting my Sig rifle in -5 temps last winter with this combo and had no issues.
CLP for oil
Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease, for when you need grease.
Mobil 1 ATF for when you need something a bit more than CLP.
I was shooting my Sig rifle in -5 temps last winter with this combo and had no issues.
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Hey guys, i found a grease that scores really high on all points on the data sheets and is inexpensive. Just ordered a 14oz can for only $6.37 shipped from amazon. Sta-lub sta-plex extreeme pressure premium red grease. http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/content/prod_detail.aspx?S=Y&PN=SL3191
I found out about it from this website: http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/maintenance/greasegun.html
Apparently this guy emailed their technical dept and got more specific technical data from them. If those numbers are correct, this grease seems the the deal of the century. What do you guys think?
I found out about it from this website: http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/maintenance/greasegun.html
Apparently this guy emailed their technical dept and got more specific technical data from them. If those numbers are correct, this grease seems the the deal of the century. What do you guys think?
It appears to be a very good grease. I've seen this at many different retailers. I think that NGLI #2 grease is much thicker than is needed on a gun. A #1 would be much better.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
It appears to be a very good grease. I've seen this at many different retailers. I think that NGLI #2 grease is much thicker than is needed on a gun. A #1 would be much better.
A word of caution on using automotive grease for firearms. Make sure the grease has a smooth, creamy texture rather than a tacky, sticky, stringy/leggy texture if you are going to use it for guns. A grease that has a tacky texture and is over applied can actually cause a malfunction in weapons that require reciprocating mass to function properly. If you over apply a a tacky grease, you will actually INcrease friction between the moving parts and tighten up tolerances at the same time, almost like gluing the parts together. In the case of auto pistols, this will make the slide noticeably harder to rack and slower during its movement. This means any semi auto and rimfires especially.
Another thing to consider is that most automotive grease is designed to be used in a mostly sealed environment and replaced at intervals. Most greases will dry out badly if left in the open air and not worked frequently, like they would be if applied to a firearm.
I made this mistake with my cz-75 once. I applied dabs of lithium complex wheel bearing grease everywhere I normally applied oil, put the gun back together and put it back in the safe. A few days later I went to rack the slide to load it and found the slide [censored] near glued to the frame. After giving it a quick jerk, the slide opened normally but it felt much harder to rack than usual. I knew this wasn't right and immediately cleaned all the grease off and re-applied oil. Once I did that, everything was back to normal and the slide was very easy to rack again.
In general, my advise is simply to not use grease on semi-autos unless you have a garand operating system. Examples being the garand, m1a, mini-14 series etc.
It appears to be a very good grease. I've seen this at many different retailers. I think that NGLI #2 grease is much thicker than is needed on a gun. A #1 would be much better.
A word of caution on using automotive grease for firearms. Make sure the grease has a smooth, creamy texture rather than a tacky, sticky, stringy/leggy texture if you are going to use it for guns. A grease that has a tacky texture and is over applied can actually cause a malfunction in weapons that require reciprocating mass to function properly. If you over apply a a tacky grease, you will actually INcrease friction between the moving parts and tighten up tolerances at the same time, almost like gluing the parts together. In the case of auto pistols, this will make the slide noticeably harder to rack and slower during its movement. This means any semi auto and rimfires especially.
Another thing to consider is that most automotive grease is designed to be used in a mostly sealed environment and replaced at intervals. Most greases will dry out badly if left in the open air and not worked frequently, like they would be if applied to a firearm.
I made this mistake with my cz-75 once. I applied dabs of lithium complex wheel bearing grease everywhere I normally applied oil, put the gun back together and put it back in the safe. A few days later I went to rack the slide to load it and found the slide [censored] near glued to the frame. After giving it a quick jerk, the slide opened normally but it felt much harder to rack than usual. I knew this wasn't right and immediately cleaned all the grease off and re-applied oil. Once I did that, everything was back to normal and the slide was very easy to rack again.
In general, my advise is simply to not use grease on semi-autos unless you have a garand operating system. Examples being the garand, m1a, mini-14 series etc.
Agree, you don't want a heavy grease. A light synthetic #2 is the thickest I would go in the summer. Grease with tackifier is not needed. Amsoil spray grease works great on an AR bolt carrier for example.
Used to use various solvents, oils and greases. I guess I'm getting old but a good CLP (Breakfree, Eezox, RemOil or my favorite FP-10) and I'm good to go. One product, swab and wipe. Done.
Thanks for your replies!
If that grease is too viscous or sticky, could I mix it with synthetic motor oil?
Also, What gets your vote for best clp (or just LP)? What out there do you think offers the very best lubrication that's not a grease?
I've read good things about these products I've listed below but please feel free to suggest anything else. Thanks!
Corrosion x Aviation
Weaponshield
Slip 2000 ewl
G96 synthetic clp
Militec
break free LP
Mpro7 LPX
Eezox
If that grease is too viscous or sticky, could I mix it with synthetic motor oil?
Also, What gets your vote for best clp (or just LP)? What out there do you think offers the very best lubrication that's not a grease?
I've read good things about these products I've listed below but please feel free to suggest anything else. Thanks!
Corrosion x Aviation
Weaponshield
Slip 2000 ewl
G96 synthetic clp
Militec
break free LP
Mpro7 LPX
Eezox
Best general purpose CLP- Ballistol- with emphasis on cleaning
Corrosion x- with emphasis on corrosion protection
Super lube liquid- With emphasis on wear prevention / high flashpoint
Do a search for my posts on these topics to find out more. In general, I believe that products that cost more than $1 per oz (when purchased in large quantity) are too expensive and don't offer any REAL advantages. Gun butter and Frog Lube are some of the examples I use to show over priced, over hyped, over exaggerated lube products that are not worth their high price tag. IMO, there is no reason weapon maintenance has to be an expensive affair.
Be careful when talking about this though, it is almost like talking about religion and very few people agree on things. lol Goodluck!
Corrosion x- with emphasis on corrosion protection
Super lube liquid- With emphasis on wear prevention / high flashpoint
Do a search for my posts on these topics to find out more. In general, I believe that products that cost more than $1 per oz (when purchased in large quantity) are too expensive and don't offer any REAL advantages. Gun butter and Frog Lube are some of the examples I use to show over priced, over hyped, over exaggerated lube products that are not worth their high price tag. IMO, there is no reason weapon maintenance has to be an expensive affair.
Be careful when talking about this though, it is almost like talking about religion and very few people agree on things. lol Goodluck!
Originally Posted By: Laico
Pablo, where do you get Amsoil spray grease. I don't see it anywhere on their website.
Amsoil doesn't make it anymore. Which sucks.
Pablo, where do you get Amsoil spray grease. I don't see it anywhere on their website.
Amsoil doesn't make it anymore. Which sucks.
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