Kreen Kroil works well...
Best gun oil?
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Originally Posted By: Cujet
I recently discovered that Mobil 1 5W-40 is a great firearms lube for applications where something more than a very light lube is required. The slide on a 1911 is a great example.
Yup, I use M1 0w40 for pretty much everything, gun lube included.
I recently discovered that Mobil 1 5W-40 is a great firearms lube for applications where something more than a very light lube is required. The slide on a 1911 is a great example.
Yup, I use M1 0w40 for pretty much everything, gun lube included.
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Kreen Kroil works well...
How long have you been using it? My understanding is that one piece in the puzzle of how Kroil works it's magic is acidity too high to use it for this sort of thing.
I'm sitting here visualising little gremlins eating your gunz from the inside out like they would chew on airplane wings while William Shatner sits there watching...just watching and waiting.
Kreen Kroil works well...
How long have you been using it? My understanding is that one piece in the puzzle of how Kroil works it's magic is acidity too high to use it for this sort of thing.
I'm sitting here visualising little gremlins eating your gunz from the inside out like they would chew on airplane wings while William Shatner sits there watching...just watching and waiting.
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Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Kreen Kroil works well...
I use, and like, Kroil, but it's not at all a lubricant. Penetrant and cleaner is what the function is. Works great to soak my AR bolts, loosens up the carbonaceous crust. I rinse it off with WD-40 and lube with Amsoil MP.
Kreen Kroil works well...
I use, and like, Kroil, but it's not at all a lubricant. Penetrant and cleaner is what the function is. Works great to soak my AR bolts, loosens up the carbonaceous crust. I rinse it off with WD-40 and lube with Amsoil MP.
For cleaning: 1:1:1 ATF/MMO/SAE30 or just ATF.
For lubing: high temp wheel bearing grease.
That's what I use for any semi auto ( Glocks, AR's, AK's, etc.) because lubrication and cleaning are two different ideas. As finicky as the M16 is, something like wheel bearing grease works because it stays put. 1000 rnds at a time and nary a jam. Even in a desert with sand blowing about.
For lubing: high temp wheel bearing grease.
That's what I use for any semi auto ( Glocks, AR's, AK's, etc.) because lubrication and cleaning are two different ideas. As finicky as the M16 is, something like wheel bearing grease works because it stays put. 1000 rnds at a time and nary a jam. Even in a desert with sand blowing about.
Shooters choice FP-10 is the best
Originally Posted By: AVB
M-16's haven't been finicky in over 30 years now. Don't run them dry and they will work for a long time.
Exactly! I see-sawed on this one until I figured how to really run the thing. When I first deployed I got my butt chewed on for having a "wet" gun. I was told by an "experienced" NCO that it would collect dirt and jam. Well even after I was proven right I was still in the wrong. My biggest beef against the M16 is the fact that its just a big jumble of pins and springs. I've seen one come apart from a modest drop but then I've also seen quite a few take abuse like it was cool. Back to the topic at hand: if you pay more than dime for a thimble full you're getting hosed.
M-16's haven't been finicky in over 30 years now. Don't run them dry and they will work for a long time.
Exactly! I see-sawed on this one until I figured how to really run the thing. When I first deployed I got my butt chewed on for having a "wet" gun. I was told by an "experienced" NCO that it would collect dirt and jam. Well even after I was proven right I was still in the wrong. My biggest beef against the M16 is the fact that its just a big jumble of pins and springs. I've seen one come apart from a modest drop but then I've also seen quite a few take abuse like it was cool. Back to the topic at hand: if you pay more than dime for a thimble full you're getting hosed.
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Originally Posted By: yonyon
How long have you been using it? My understanding is that one piece in the puzzle of how Kroil works it's magic is acidity too high to use it for this sort of thing.
I'm sitting here visualising little gremlins eating your gunz from the inside out like they would chew on airplane wings while William Shatner sits there watching...just watching and waiting.
Last year I left Kroil for over 6 months all over a WW1 blued German artillery sight which had crusty rust in spots. Probably found in an attic or garage. The rust came off almost entirely but the blued portions were not affected at all. However, I don't use it as lube.
How long have you been using it? My understanding is that one piece in the puzzle of how Kroil works it's magic is acidity too high to use it for this sort of thing.
I'm sitting here visualising little gremlins eating your gunz from the inside out like they would chew on airplane wings while William Shatner sits there watching...just watching and waiting.
Last year I left Kroil for over 6 months all over a WW1 blued German artillery sight which had crusty rust in spots. Probably found in an attic or garage. The rust came off almost entirely but the blued portions were not affected at all. However, I don't use it as lube.
Originally Posted By: AMC
Originally Posted By: Tempest
It appears to be a very good grease. I've seen this at many different retailers. I think that NGLI #2 grease is much thicker than is needed on a gun. A #1 would be much better.
A word of caution on using automotive grease for firearms. Make sure the grease has a smooth, creamy texture rather than a tacky, sticky, stringy/leggy texture if you are going to use it for guns. A grease that has a tacky texture and is over applied can actually cause a malfunction in weapons that require reciprocating mass to function properly. If you over apply a a tacky grease, you will actually INcrease friction between the moving parts and tighten up tolerances at the same time, almost like gluing the parts together. In the case of auto pistols, this will make the slide noticeably harder to rack and slower during its movement. This means any semi auto and rimfires especially.
Another thing to consider is that most automotive grease is designed to be used in a mostly sealed environment and replaced at intervals. Most greases will dry out badly if left in the open air and not worked frequently, like they would be if applied to a firearm.
I made this mistake with my cz-75 once. I applied dabs of lithium complex wheel bearing grease everywhere I normally applied oil, put the gun back together and put it back in the safe. A few days later I went to rack the slide to load it and found the slide [censored] near glued to the frame. After giving it a quick jerk, the slide opened normally but it felt much harder to rack than usual. I knew this wasn't right and immediately cleaned all the grease off and re-applied oil. Once I did that, everything was back to normal and the slide was very easy to rack again.
In general, my advise is simply to not use grease on semi-autos unless you have a garand operating system. Examples being the garand, m1a, mini-14 series etc.
I own a lot of old European stuff that likes grease.
Automatenfett
The Swiss actually instruct their soldiers to run their rifles totally dry in the event of way. They learned a lesson in winter warfare from the Russian front.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
It appears to be a very good grease. I've seen this at many different retailers. I think that NGLI #2 grease is much thicker than is needed on a gun. A #1 would be much better.
A word of caution on using automotive grease for firearms. Make sure the grease has a smooth, creamy texture rather than a tacky, sticky, stringy/leggy texture if you are going to use it for guns. A grease that has a tacky texture and is over applied can actually cause a malfunction in weapons that require reciprocating mass to function properly. If you over apply a a tacky grease, you will actually INcrease friction between the moving parts and tighten up tolerances at the same time, almost like gluing the parts together. In the case of auto pistols, this will make the slide noticeably harder to rack and slower during its movement. This means any semi auto and rimfires especially.
Another thing to consider is that most automotive grease is designed to be used in a mostly sealed environment and replaced at intervals. Most greases will dry out badly if left in the open air and not worked frequently, like they would be if applied to a firearm.
I made this mistake with my cz-75 once. I applied dabs of lithium complex wheel bearing grease everywhere I normally applied oil, put the gun back together and put it back in the safe. A few days later I went to rack the slide to load it and found the slide [censored] near glued to the frame. After giving it a quick jerk, the slide opened normally but it felt much harder to rack than usual. I knew this wasn't right and immediately cleaned all the grease off and re-applied oil. Once I did that, everything was back to normal and the slide was very easy to rack again.
In general, my advise is simply to not use grease on semi-autos unless you have a garand operating system. Examples being the garand, m1a, mini-14 series etc.
I own a lot of old European stuff that likes grease.
Automatenfett
The Swiss actually instruct their soldiers to run their rifles totally dry in the event of way. They learned a lesson in winter warfare from the Russian front.
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
The Swiss actually instruct their soldiers to run their rifles totally dry in the event of way. They learned a lesson in winter warfare from the Russian front.
Lubricants have come a long way since then. There is no reason not to use a low temp gun lubricant.
The Swiss actually instruct their soldiers to run their rifles totally dry in the event of way. They learned a lesson in winter warfare from the Russian front.
Lubricants have come a long way since then. There is no reason not to use a low temp gun lubricant.
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
The Swiss actually instruct their soldiers to run their rifles totally dry in the event of way. They learned a lesson in winter warfare from the Russian front.
Technically the Swiss were not in WWII, or on the Russian Front.
The Swiss actually instruct their soldiers to run their rifles totally dry in the event of way. They learned a lesson in winter warfare from the Russian front.
Technically the Swiss were not in WWII, or on the Russian Front.
No really? Lots of military's learned from the Russian front, except ours as we found out in Korea.
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Does anybody worry about CLPs hurting your anodizing on your firearms? For example if you have aluminum frame rails. Read what it says here about if an anodized piece of aluminum treated with balistol is subjected to rubbing or scapeing (such as frame rails are by the slide rubbing back and forth)
http://www.firehawktech.com/Ballistol/aluminum.html
Do you think its just Balistol or do most CLPs have this affect due to the solvents and other agents that attack oxidizing/oxidation? How about
Weapon shield, breakfree, etc?
http://www.firehawktech.com/Ballistol/aluminum.html
Do you think its just Balistol or do most CLPs have this affect due to the solvents and other agents that attack oxidizing/oxidation? How about
Weapon shield, breakfree, etc?
Originally Posted By: Laico
Does anybody worry about CLPs hurting your anodizing on your firearms? For example if you have aluminum frame rails. Read what it says here about if an anodized piece of aluminum treated with balistol is subjected to rubbing or scapeing (such as frame rails are by the slide rubbing back and forth)
http://www.firehawktech.com/Ballistol/aluminum.html
Do you think its just Balistol or do most CLPs have this affect due to the solvents and other agents that attack oxidizing/oxidation? How about
Weapon shield, breakfree, etc?
Laico, No offense but I think you are interpreting that article incorrectly. It basically says that anodizing can be damaged by repetitive mechanical stress. The article goes on to say that ballistol IS one of the few oils that CAN protect bare aluminum or aluminum where the protective coating, such as anodizing is damaged.
The reason ballistol can protect bare aluminum is because of its high pH and lack of aggressive solvents/additives. Most other gun oils have a pH of 6.5 or less and do contain harsh solvents which could pit and erode aluminum.
All of this being said, I have never noticed any gun oil damaging aluminum (bare or otherwise) in any way. Ballistol does seem to clean aluminum surfaces very well and it does leave the surface very slick (more so than other gun oils) afterwards.
Does anybody worry about CLPs hurting your anodizing on your firearms? For example if you have aluminum frame rails. Read what it says here about if an anodized piece of aluminum treated with balistol is subjected to rubbing or scapeing (such as frame rails are by the slide rubbing back and forth)
http://www.firehawktech.com/Ballistol/aluminum.html
Do you think its just Balistol or do most CLPs have this affect due to the solvents and other agents that attack oxidizing/oxidation? How about
Weapon shield, breakfree, etc?
Laico, No offense but I think you are interpreting that article incorrectly. It basically says that anodizing can be damaged by repetitive mechanical stress. The article goes on to say that ballistol IS one of the few oils that CAN protect bare aluminum or aluminum where the protective coating, such as anodizing is damaged.
The reason ballistol can protect bare aluminum is because of its high pH and lack of aggressive solvents/additives. Most other gun oils have a pH of 6.5 or less and do contain harsh solvents which could pit and erode aluminum.
All of this being said, I have never noticed any gun oil damaging aluminum (bare or otherwise) in any way. Ballistol does seem to clean aluminum surfaces very well and it does leave the surface very slick (more so than other gun oils) afterwards.
That article is all over the place and not well written. Hard anodizing (as used on guns) is VERY hard but also very thin...only about .0015"-.002". This is brought about by an electo-chemical process that increases the natural tendency of aluminum to oxidize in air. Naturally occurring surface oxidation is measured in nm.
I've never heard of conventional solvents like those used in CLP and other products to attack anodize. It's aluminum oxide and basically a ceramic. Plus, most military weapons are aluminum and they don't seem to have a problem.
Alkaline chemicals (like Simple Green and most water based cleaners) will attack anodize and aluminum. I would not recommend their use on aluminum guns or parts.
One reason I really like Weapon Shield is that it contains no volatile solvents.
I've never heard of conventional solvents like those used in CLP and other products to attack anodize. It's aluminum oxide and basically a ceramic. Plus, most military weapons are aluminum and they don't seem to have a problem.
Alkaline chemicals (like Simple Green and most water based cleaners) will attack anodize and aluminum. I would not recommend their use on aluminum guns or parts.
One reason I really like Weapon Shield is that it contains no volatile solvents.
Originally Posted By: Laico
Does anybody worry about CLPs hurting your anodizing on your firearms? For example if you have aluminum frame rails. Read what it says here about if an anodized piece of aluminum treated with balistol is subjected to rubbing or scapeing (such as frame rails are by the slide rubbing back and forth)
http://www.firehawktech.com/Ballistol/aluminum.html
Do you think its just Balistol or do most CLPs have this affect due to the solvents and other agents that attack oxidizing/oxidation? How about
Weapon shield, breakfree, etc?
Breakfree CLP does not effect aluminum. It has been used in the U.S. Military for almost 30 years on their M-16 rifles, and Beretta pistols.
I personally don't like aluminum frame pistols because they wear more than steel frame, or steel insert (plastic), pistols.
Here are pictures of my Taurus with aluminum frame (unknown round count, but relatively low). I like to over-oil my guns as can be clearly seen. I used BF-CLP for many years, but have switched to my own concoction made with motor oil.
Balistol is soluble in water, so it might cause more problems to non-plated metals, but I would think they solved that problem with some type of corrosion inhibitor.
Does anybody worry about CLPs hurting your anodizing on your firearms? For example if you have aluminum frame rails. Read what it says here about if an anodized piece of aluminum treated with balistol is subjected to rubbing or scapeing (such as frame rails are by the slide rubbing back and forth)
http://www.firehawktech.com/Ballistol/aluminum.html
Do you think its just Balistol or do most CLPs have this affect due to the solvents and other agents that attack oxidizing/oxidation? How about
Weapon shield, breakfree, etc?
Breakfree CLP does not effect aluminum. It has been used in the U.S. Military for almost 30 years on their M-16 rifles, and Beretta pistols.
I personally don't like aluminum frame pistols because they wear more than steel frame, or steel insert (plastic), pistols.
Here are pictures of my Taurus with aluminum frame (unknown round count, but relatively low). I like to over-oil my guns as can be clearly seen. I used BF-CLP for many years, but have switched to my own concoction made with motor oil.
Balistol is soluble in water, so it might cause more problems to non-plated metals, but I would think they solved that problem with some type of corrosion inhibitor.
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Thank you AMC, Tempest & Loobed!
I went back and re-read it and it’s actually very clear. I was just exhausted when I read it. Sorry guys!
They are very specific in the article that anodizing can be damaged by repeated mechanical stress whether treated with balistol or not. That it has nothing to do with being treated with balistol and that balistol will not negatively affect good quality anodizing. I am glad to hear that because I really like Balistol.
I went back and re-read it and it’s actually very clear. I was just exhausted when I read it. Sorry guys!
They are very specific in the article that anodizing can be damaged by repeated mechanical stress whether treated with balistol or not. That it has nothing to do with being treated with balistol and that balistol will not negatively affect good quality anodizing. I am glad to hear that because I really like Balistol.
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