Did a search here and could not find the answer. I assume this is not a critical application compared to ball joints so maybe any multi-purpose lube would be ok? Thanks.
Some grease have a dedicated purpose, keep that in mind. A good quality grease will resist water wash out and chassis grease should have a GC/LB rating. I prefer a tacky grease because it stays in there longer. Some grease has moly added for a better EP rating to resist wear.
Bargain grease is just that and not the best choice if you are concerned about wear. Synthetic grease is what I have used the past ten years and it does a good job for the difference in price.
Use a grease that is GC-LB rated. I prefer a GC-LB grease with added moly.
Just remember that some types of grease are incompatible with others. Whatever type you use now, remember to use that type any time you re-grease the joint.
Thanks for all of the responses. Moog says to use a premium quality lithium or synthetic grease. I called and asked them about moly. They said it would be ok but it really does not matter what grease you use as long as you grease it on a regular basis.
Sounds like they already got it covered. Any decent NLGI 2 CG-LB rated grease. Lithium vs synthetic isn't really a valid comparison as lithium is the thickener type and synthetic refers to the base oil.
I am using Valvoline Synpower but after more researching I'm pretty sure you can get better for cheaper. I still like it and believe its a great grease, just maybe a little pricey for what you get.
The Rat gets Ford spec black grease, BMWs aren't grease-able. Except , I've used the Ford grease to re load the center drive shaft bearing. and the recycled tie rods on the last BMW. I drilled the crowns on the TREs and used a needle to get the grease into them. I sealed the holes with a smear of RTV.