best coolant choice for iron block, brass radiator and Al trans cooler?

I think Bmw blue has more silicates than g05. It definitely leaves more crust when it leaks
 
And they don't answer the phone...
However I did find a well done Extended Life CorGuard (blue) test 2012 Ford Fusion fleet with "brass" analysis, but no mention of lead. 2012 has Al radiators.

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Whatever you decide on, make sure it's widely available years down the road if you have to do a repair on the road and need a compatible coolant.
 
I think Bmw blue has more silicates than g05. It definitely leaves more crust when it leaks
Years ago I was comparing and I thought the main difference was the addition of 2-eha. Not silicate concentration.
 
I don't know much about coolant chemistry, so I tend to always use the OEM rather than risk any issues. Having said that, at one time Honda marketed their Type 2 coolant stating it was appropriate for older vehicles that have brass heater cores (and aluminum heads and radiators) like my old Accord. I've used that coolant for many years in the Accord and it still has the original heater core. The insides of the head look pristine as far as you can see.
 
When those manifolds warp from heat they will break off the studs that hold them to the head.The end ones go into the water jackets.

I have pulled many of those heads off to have a shop remove the broken studs. Used to have a head off in about 30 minutes
 
I don't know much about coolant chemistry, so I tend to always use the OEM rather than risk any issues. Having said that, at one time Honda marketed their Type 2 coolant stating it was appropriate for older vehicles that have brass heater cores (and aluminum heads and radiators) like my old Accord. I've used that coolant for many years in the Accord and it still has the original heater core. The insides of the head look pristine as far as you can see.
+1
My 3 old Hondas all had brass cores and aluminum heads and tubes. I now see another quote
For Hondas (and Toyotas) they use an ethylene glycol base with a specially formulated OAT which is similar to GM's DEX-COOL, but removes the 2-EHA component and relies exclusively on sebacate for corrosion protection. For Honda's, either use the OEM coolant (regardless of color) or Zerex Asian Vehicle Antifreeze (once again, regardless of color); I've compared the chemical makeup of the coolant to Honda's specs and they are virtually identical.
which sounds reasonable. To that end I also see this 2-EHA free Ravenol

The plethora of variants boggles.
 
When those manifolds warp from heat they will break off the studs that hold them to the head.The end ones go into the water jackets.

I have pulled many of those heads off to have a shop remove the broken studs. Used to have a head off in about 30 minutes
? This style? Very different than other 413/440s, and no headers made in the pattern...

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I don't know much about coolant chemistry, so I tend to always use the OEM rather than risk any issues. Having said that, at one time Honda marketed their Type 2 coolant stating it was appropriate for older vehicles that have brass heater cores (and aluminum heads and radiators) like my old Accord. I've used that coolant for many years in the Accord and it still has the original heater core. The insides of the head look pristine as far as you can see.
An OAT without 2-EHA is likely ok for old stuff. I’ve had the HD diesel truck version running in my 1982 MB 300cd when I bought it.

That said, anything OEM for this vehicle in OP’s post is obsolete. But we know it would have been a silicated AF, this Id run an HOAT.
 
An OAT without 2-EHA is likely ok for old stuff. I’ve had the HD diesel truck version running in my 1982 MB 300cd when I bought it.

That said, anything OEM for this vehicle in OP’s post is obsolete. But we know it would have been a silicated AF, this Id run an HOAT.
Not only obsolete, but complicated by my adding 2015 RAM aluminum tubing and trans heater.
 
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