Best air filters for F-Series trucks?
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Mann MA-1001 at Amazon.com for $14.7, buy 2 for less than $30 and free shipping. Air filter should lasted more than 20k miles, unless the truck is driven in very dusty area.
Huh, the box said 12,000 protection or something like that.
I paid extra for the Purolater pure one $26 and I struggled for 1/2 hour to try and fit it in (air box would not fit back into the hose)- I was so frustrated I took it back to Advance and got the
Motorcraft OEM and it only set me back $18 ---it slid right in with no sizing issues.
By the way, we run the same filter.
As an FYI I find this to be the same with Spark plugs as well- OEM is the way to go on certain items -despite my temptation to try and find something better..
Motorcraft OEM and it only set me back $18 ---it slid right in with no sizing issues.
By the way, we run the same filter.
As an FYI I find this to be the same with Spark plugs as well- OEM is the way to go on certain items -despite my temptation to try and find something better..
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Mann MA-1001 at Amazon.com for $14.7, buy 2 for less than $30 and free shipping. Air filter should lasted more than 20k miles, unless the truck is driven in very dusty area.
And I was paying $21 for a FRAM! May just do that
Mann MA-1001 at Amazon.com for $14.7, buy 2 for less than $30 and free shipping. Air filter should lasted more than 20k miles, unless the truck is driven in very dusty area.
And I was paying $21 for a FRAM! May just do that
I have a mann from Amazon on the Accord, a pretty nice filter. Fram actually makes some good air filters as well. I usually go 15,000 miles, though the schedule on either car is 30,000. Filter manufacturers recommendation is going to be as low as reasonable.
The filter manufactures want you to change their filters as often as possible so they can sell you more. For normal city/highway driving 12k miles is nothing to accumulate to clog the filter.
Well, Ill go longer than 12K, not driving in dust or anything. I think I will try the MANN filter, and maybe one of their oil filters, too.Thanks
Running the Amsoil EA version of this filter IIRC it was about $38 also but has a great lifespan and a nice fit.
Ask Pablo if he can hook you up, you wont be disappointed with this filter.
Ask Pablo if he can hook you up, you wont be disappointed with this filter.
Rockauto.com has the same Mann air filter MA-1001 for $8.69 and Mann oil filter ML-1005 for $2.54. If you buy 4 oil filters and 2 air filters, the shipping is $8.38 and the total to $35.92.
To me "best" implies some objective standard has been implemented to determine which filters the best, holds the most dirt, is, etc. Unless you have some objective data to compare, how can you proclaim one product "better" than another? Which is why I don't try to answer these sorts of questions and respectfully point out that it hasn't been answered here.
Best is a thick word.. We should be able to judge fit and build quality though. One can tell how well a filter is put together.. Right?
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
Best is a thick word.. We should be able to judge fit and build quality though. One can tell how well a filter is put together.. Right?
Yeah, that has to be true. Why would a company do a top notch filter with impeccable fit and materials and then put a substandard media in it?
Best is a thick word.. We should be able to judge fit and build quality though. One can tell how well a filter is put together.. Right?
Yeah, that has to be true. Why would a company do a top notch filter with impeccable fit and materials and then put a substandard media in it?
I would say that most paper filters are loaded with OK media. From all the tests I've seen.. the usual air filter issues are with gaskets failing, or things getting unglued. My Dad's truck came over with a "Speedy Lube" air filter of some sort where the gasket failed and it leaked. Ive seen some Fram cone shapes have the end cap come unglued rendering it useless.
Whenever I get a filter, I take it out of the box, and check the gasketing for plausible durability.. If it's got a good edge, no leaks, and it will glued (slight pressure doesn't cause it to pop apart..) I've marked it as satisfactory and used it in my car.
Filters I've seen fail: some model Fram, some generic Speedy Lube filters.
Filters I've not seen fail: Purolator, Hastings (Both made my Hastings/Baldwin) and Motorcraft.
Most of the time I buy Hastings or Federated by Hastings. If I need o keep late hours I'll go to Advance for a Purolator. The Driveworks filter there looked OK, and it was the ONLY one in stock, so it got put in one of our trucks. We'll inspect it at 3500Mi and see if the gasket is cracking at all.
I like taking a filter out at 12K miles and seeing that it's in as good of shape as it was when it was new... just with dirt in it now... That's what the Fed/Hastings filters have given me since I've used them. The "Lunchboxes" in some Ford vehicles (CV, TownCar, 500) can be hard on the rims on the square filters. The lunchboxes with snaps on one side and pegs on the other have "CUT" the rim on a cheapie square filter. Since I'm watching over 5 Fords, and 1 Dodge, along with many other stragglers that show up at my garage door... It's nice to have a filter maker that's shown good consitency and value.
Whenever I get a filter, I take it out of the box, and check the gasketing for plausible durability.. If it's got a good edge, no leaks, and it will glued (slight pressure doesn't cause it to pop apart..) I've marked it as satisfactory and used it in my car.
Filters I've seen fail: some model Fram, some generic Speedy Lube filters.
Filters I've not seen fail: Purolator, Hastings (Both made my Hastings/Baldwin) and Motorcraft.
Most of the time I buy Hastings or Federated by Hastings. If I need o keep late hours I'll go to Advance for a Purolator. The Driveworks filter there looked OK, and it was the ONLY one in stock, so it got put in one of our trucks. We'll inspect it at 3500Mi and see if the gasket is cracking at all.
I like taking a filter out at 12K miles and seeing that it's in as good of shape as it was when it was new... just with dirt in it now... That's what the Fed/Hastings filters have given me since I've used them. The "Lunchboxes" in some Ford vehicles (CV, TownCar, 500) can be hard on the rims on the square filters. The lunchboxes with snaps on one side and pegs on the other have "CUT" the rim on a cheapie square filter. Since I'm watching over 5 Fords, and 1 Dodge, along with many other stragglers that show up at my garage door... It's nice to have a filter maker that's shown good consitency and value.
I think pulling and inspecting a filter is the wrong way to determine filter condition because you can risk damaging the sealing apparatus in the process. The better way is to install a filter restriction gauge and don't touch the filter until it indicates approximately .75 HG over the baseline clean filter reading reading (often taken at WOT or some other arbitrary point in the higher rpm range), which indicates restriction due to the dirt load. Depending on the environment, that could be in 10K miles or 100K. Other folks have posted, and it makes sense, that there may be a time element to a filter where the materials deteriorate. I have no direct knowledge on that aspect but am observing the filters on the vehicles in my charge for clues.
At the risk of being a broken record, I once again make my point with this air filter study by the EPA which is a strong indicator that most of us are obsessive about air filter replacements.
Air Filters vs FE and Power
At the risk of being a broken record, I once again make my point with this air filter study by the EPA which is a strong indicator that most of us are obsessive about air filter replacements.
Air Filters vs FE and Power
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Not to be snarky, but without a visual inspection (not necessarily removing it from the vehicle), it may fail without you knowing it. The meter will not show restriction because the filter is bypassed and leaking. Especially that filter he's got in the picture, I've seen the black cap pop off.... Especially on those Frams.
My filter inspection I describe above is to be done on a NEW filter before you put it in... make sure its well assembled. All my cars have flat lunchbox filters... so we can easily have a look at them and see if they need an early change. Usually they fall at the 12K mark that's recommended.
My filter inspection I describe above is to be done on a NEW filter before you put it in... make sure its well assembled. All my cars have flat lunchbox filters... so we can easily have a look at them and see if they need an early change. Usually they fall at the 12K mark that's recommended.
You're not snarky at all. You make a good point.
I'd go on to clarify by saying that you'd have to balance the need for a visual inspection against the possibility of causing harm by molesting the filter. I'd contend that if you buy a well built filter in the first place, the odds of failure are so low as to be almost discountable. Using a cheezy brand, well, your odds would be lower and the need for a visual would be greater.
I also ask this. At 12K, how can you tell a filter needs replacement? Assuming no damage, of course. I've got about 60K and five years on one car filter now. I've looked at it a couple of times but the restriction indicator is still almost showing no restriction. It's gone a bit dark. There're some bugs on it. In my earlier days, I'd have replaced it based on that look. With no restriction showing, not today.
Since I got this new "religion" ( : < ) I've been comparing the amount of dirt on the filters in my farm tractors with the readings on the restriction meter. At the end of a season, I can literally knock enough dirt off the filter to plant something into, yet the filter is still showing only about 10 percent more restriction than the brand new filter. To me, that's a valuable observation.
When it comes to shops and scheduled maintenance on everyday people's cars, I understand and endorse the need to change the filter on a arbitrary schedule. The tech can't control when or if the car will come in for it's next service, so the filter is replaced. Makes sense in that context because the car is not being looked at often. With those of us that are doing our own maintenance and are hands-on with the equipment often, these arbitrary replacements/expenditures make less sense. I hate tossing something away that only 25 percent used up. Especially when there is no gain in doing so (as evidenced by the EPA tests).
I'd go on to clarify by saying that you'd have to balance the need for a visual inspection against the possibility of causing harm by molesting the filter. I'd contend that if you buy a well built filter in the first place, the odds of failure are so low as to be almost discountable. Using a cheezy brand, well, your odds would be lower and the need for a visual would be greater.
I also ask this. At 12K, how can you tell a filter needs replacement? Assuming no damage, of course. I've got about 60K and five years on one car filter now. I've looked at it a couple of times but the restriction indicator is still almost showing no restriction. It's gone a bit dark. There're some bugs on it. In my earlier days, I'd have replaced it based on that look. With no restriction showing, not today.
Since I got this new "religion" ( : < ) I've been comparing the amount of dirt on the filters in my farm tractors with the readings on the restriction meter. At the end of a season, I can literally knock enough dirt off the filter to plant something into, yet the filter is still showing only about 10 percent more restriction than the brand new filter. To me, that's a valuable observation.
When it comes to shops and scheduled maintenance on everyday people's cars, I understand and endorse the need to change the filter on a arbitrary schedule. The tech can't control when or if the car will come in for it's next service, so the filter is replaced. Makes sense in that context because the car is not being looked at often. With those of us that are doing our own maintenance and are hands-on with the equipment often, these arbitrary replacements/expenditures make less sense. I hate tossing something away that only 25 percent used up. Especially when there is no gain in doing so (as evidenced by the EPA tests).
At my Dad's shop, we would shoot the flat filters with the air compressor on one side, vac on the other in order to get the major bugs and seeds off of them. It used to be that the filters had the foam rubber beginning to deteriorate.. then it was definately time to change. Our mini-cleanings were helpful to extend the life.
You don't say which F series Donaldson has this kit for some of them.
Severe Duty Air Induction System Retrofit Kit
1999*-2003 Ford F250-550 or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke® Diesel Engine
Part # X007953
Ford also sells it as part #2U2Z-9K635-AA
or Motorcraft #FA-1759
Severe Duty Air Induction System Retrofit Kit
1999*-2003 Ford F250-550 or Excursion with 7.3L Power Stroke® Diesel Engine
Part # X007953
Ford also sells it as part #2U2Z-9K635-AA
or Motorcraft #FA-1759
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