Best 5W-30 dino oil for performance engine?

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Originally Posted By: Turbo_777
STi's come with synthetic in the sump from the factory, why not just follow the manufacturer’s advice?

Not the N. America bound scoobies.

For conventional oil, I would go with 10W30 or 10W40. SAE 30 or 40 is also allowed in "severe conditions".

350 hp? Did you buy a modded STI or is that a typo?
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-Dennis
 
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I don't recommend running conventional oil in a turbocharged gasoline engine. Synthetic blend, at least, and in 10w30 flavor. Full synthetic is fine in a new engine. Mobil 1 5w30 has Honda's HTO-06 approval.
 
I would go with GTX or Valvoline 10w30 conventional for break in. They have low Moly, which I think is good for break-ins. Then go with Full Synthetic Mobil 1 0w40 after that or any Full Synthetic with Moly in it.
 
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I have a 430 awhp STI, and I have run Motul XCess 5w-40, T6 5w-40, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40, Pennzoil Ultra 10w30, Pennzoil Ultra 5w30, and VR1 Synthetic 10w30, depending on the climate. They have all been great in the car with very little consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: gregoron
I would go with GTX or Valvoline 10w30 conventional for break in. They have low Moly, which I think is good for break-ins. Then go with Full Synthetic Mobil 1 0w40 after that or any Full Synthetic with Moly in it.


If low moly is good for engine break ins you better not tell Toyota, Honda or Mazda.....or any other manufacture that has a boat load of moly in the first fill. Moly has little effect on engine break in.
 
Originally Posted By: cp3
Hmmm...almost 5 years late to the party!

Maybe he can put a flux-capacitor in his Subie and go back to 2008?


That would've taken him wayyyy back to 1985 :P
 
Originally Posted By: ringmaster
I want to keep conventional oil in my new 350hp Subaru STI's engine for the first 4k miles (two oil changes) but I want the oil to be a strong one!

Can anyone suggest a good conventional 5w30 that won't shear down when it gets hot?

After the 4k mile mark I will change to Redline 5w30.


Suppose it shears down to 20 weight. This doesn't seem like a big deal over 2,000 miles. Moreover, it probably won't shear a lot over 2000 miles since you intend to change oil twice over the first 4,000 miles. I'd just use whatever is on sale or in my stash.
 
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Back when synthetics were not very popular and the consumer had very little knowledge on them, what were they using in their turbo equipped vehicles? I am going to go out on a limb here and say, dino?
I know, oils have evolved leaps and bounds since then but why not dino, even at a short OCI? And more specifically, why not a 5W30?
 
Originally Posted By: cp3
Hmmm...almost 5 years late to the party!

And STI's now come with synthetic from the factory.

-Dennis
 
That depends. My Audi 200 Turbo's oil temperatures were significantly lower under very hard driving than they are in something like a normally aspirated G37 or 370Z under even "normal" driving.
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan
Originally Posted By: Chris71
Go 10w30 if you are going dino. Conventional 5w30 has too much viscosity index improvers that will shear down and may put deposits on your rings. May I recommend Pennzoil 10w30?


Anybody else believe this? I'm skeptical yet curious. Perhaps 10w30 would be the best thing for my car (Saturn) which is a potential future oil burner (Stuck rings).


If your Saturn isn't using much oil, I've been told that synthetic usually heads-off any ring issues. I think one of the former posters at Saturnfans was a Saturn mechanic and used Mobil 1 10w30 in his, but 5w30 is fine too. Some used 0/5w30/40 syns to reduce consumption with decent luck...
 
As for the OP, "break-in" isn't much of an issue anymore and I'd definitely just use a syn like Pennzoil's offerings or Mobil 1 meeting the HTO-06 spec...
 
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