GDI is way more sooty.
The SMOG rating is 3 for all STATES . Not that impressive for air quality . This applies to other auto makers vehicles .
GDI is way more sooty.
Half the cylinders are DI (the sooty tips) and half are port injected.One of our German engineers has a C7 with the 4 exhaust tips … he’s got the best belly laugh telling how they hooked up on the wrong 2 outlets … Tester being very impressed with the American car
Honda don’t require 0w20. It is ‘recommended’ for fuel economy only. Not with best protection in mind.
Yes. As noted it’s not required. Grades are recommendations.This is found in FIT owners manual from '11 > '14 that shows 0w-20 ( Canada '14 , '13 for U.S. ) . The '09 + '10 owners manual states 5w-20.
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I mean how would it not? You got a better oil with better material that's got a high temperature high shear the competes with most general 5w30s. Startup in the colder weather with the red line 0w-20 was superb nothing had I used even comes close.Please explain how it held up better and how you measured better.
And says Honda brand motor oil is "highly recommended".Yes. As noted it’s not required. Grades are recommendations.
A guy I knew in Wichita he just loved working on the Honda fence and said they're the most reliable cars as long as you do all the services. His only complaint was the lack of horsepower they produced but everything was very easy to reach and repair. I would have liked to see one in a little bit bigger chassis like in an accord with maybe a little bit more power. I test drove the 2016 Honda fit sport and it was a hell of a lot of fun with paddle shifters and a sunroof. My only gripe was being almost six five and trying to get out of it. I think you could run them on just about anything except for maybe a 40 weight and they would just keep on ticking. It's a shame they get rid of all the good carsThis is found in FIT owners manual from '11 > '14 that shows 0w-20 ( Canada '14 , '13 for U.S. ) . The '09 + '10 owners manual states 5w-20.
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JC Whitney use to sell that tail pipe flame kit.Couldn't Honda just put ignitors in the tailpipe and burn this crap off, like they do on the Shockwave Jet Truck, and like kids do with their rice rockets? What's one more spark plug?
I’m a Honda guy but, they have their place. They are very reliable if services are kept up with. They are for efficiency, not speed. If speed or fast is wanted, go get you a BMW or something that is fast already.A guy I knew in Wichita he just loved working on the Honda fence and said they're the most reliable cars as long as you do all the services. His only complaint was the lack of horsepower they produced but everything was very easy to reach and repair. I would have liked to see one in a little bit bigger chassis like in an accord with maybe a little bit more power. I test drove the 2016 Honda fit sport and it was a hell of a lot of fun with paddle shifters and a sunroof. My only gripe was being almost six five and trying to get out of it. I think you could run them on just about anything except for maybe a 40 weight and they would just keep on ticking. It's a shame they get rid of all the good cars
You'd get very little soot on your finger that way from my tailpipe at >135k miles. Port injected, of course.Removed from tailpipe a few years ago . 1.6 Ltr. w/ G.D.I. at 20,000+ miles . It has been close to 8 months since last check of the tailpipe on the FIT.
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A guy I knew in Wichita he just loved working on the Honda fence and said they're the most reliable cars as long as you do all the services. His only complaint was the lack of horsepower they produced but everything was very easy to reach and repair. I would have liked to see one in a little bit bigger chassis like in an accord with maybe a little bit more power. I test drove the 2016 Honda fit sport and it was a hell of a lot of fun with paddle shifters and a sunroof. My only gripe was being almost six five and trying to get out of it. I think you could run them on just about anything except for maybe a 40 weight and they would just keep on ticking. It's a shame they get rid of all the good cars
The finger test...approved.Removed from tailpipe a few years ago . 1.6 Ltr. w/ G.D.I. at 20,000+ miles . It has been close to 8 months since last check of the tailpipe on the FIT.
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At the HPL Open House, the panel of experts deviated from this in their thoughts.The only way ti combat it is viscosity. It’s simple dilution. That or a short OCI.
Make sure you have it dilution first.
More viscosity doesn't alleviate fuel dilution, or impact the rate at which it occurs, it just gives you more buffer to start with.At the HPL Open House, the panel of experts deviated from this in their thoughts.
They posited that increasing viscosity did little to alleviate fuel dilution problems.
In their view, add packs were the key, specifically depletion of add packs.
Please reconcile.
Exactly. It gets back to people hearing things through an improper filter so that they hear what it is they want to hear. Plus a misunderstanding of physics.More viscosity doesn't alleviate fuel dilution, or impact the rate at which it occurs, it just gives you more buffer to start with.
I think Overkill “reconciled” it pretty well.At the HPL Open House, the panel of experts deviated from this in their thoughts.
They posited that increasing viscosity did little to alleviate fuel dilution problems.
In their view, add packs were the key, specifically depletion of add packs.
Please reconcile.
^^^ this ^^^ if you start with an xW-30 or xW-40 you will end up with an xW-20 or xW-30 versus something less than an xW-20 if you started with an xW-20.More viscosity doesn't alleviate fuel dilution, or impact the rate at which it occurs, it just gives you more buffer to start with.
The only helpful part about a better oil that HPL makes is that their viscosity modifiers are of high quality and are less prone to cleaving or degradation due to the chemical effects of gasoline. But that only prevents it from getting even worse than the physical dilution of the lower viscosity fluid.More viscosity doesn't alleviate fuel dilution, or impact the rate at which it occurs, it just gives you more buffer to start with.
Can I ask why don't you start it say 5 minutes before you leave and then it is hot?I live in southern Ontario and getting any heat on the coldest days takes a good 6-7 minutes of driving I avoid letting it idle for more than 30 sec., The heater hoses are quite long what do you think of putting furnace pipe around the hoses to reduce heat loss and bring the engine temp up faster?