Bendix Severe-Duty, Fleet/Pursuit Rotors????????

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46
Location
KY
My 2008 F150 crew cab 4x4 eats rotors. Of course it is a heavy truck with limited stopping power. I might also be hard in it. Warped the oem rotors at 5k miles when the dealership did not torque the wheels after changing the tires. Had them turned twice but they were trash at 35k. Replaced the oem rotors with Wagner’s and thermo quite pads but they seemed slightly warped out of the box. At 68k it is now time for another set of rotors or turn the Wagner’s. While not having good luck with turned rotors lately I thought I might try the Bendix severe-duty fleet pursuit rotors. http://www.bendix-brakes.com/bendix_fleet_metlok.php Anyone had any experience with these?
 
Messages
11,162
Location
USA
Turning modern rotors is useless, labor intensive, and almost as expensive as just replacing the rotors. The Bendix rotors will probably be a decent quality rotor, my choice would be the Wagner E-coated rotors so that they don't rust so fast. Another good choice is EBC Premium rotors. If you're just looking for daily driver pads, get either Akebono ProACT or EBC Ultimax pads. If you want a little more braking power, if you actually use your truck like a truck, consider EBC Greenstuff 6000, Wagner Severe Duty, Hawk LTS, or perhaps EBC's Extra Duty (but the Extra Duty pads are *very* expensive!)
 
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4,234
Location
Central Maryland
Please give the before and after runout measurements of these warped rotors. If you don't have them, chances are very good "warped rotor" is not the problem. If you are having brake pulsation issues, chances are good that good, flat rotors are being mounted eccentrically on your truck, build up pad material on the high spots, and give you that wubba-wubba feeling when you brake. Every Factory Service Manual gives instructions and limits on how to measure on-vehicle rotor runout. Every dealer technician ignores them, does the pad/rotor slap thing and gets on to the next job ASAP. Your Dealer or shop Service Writer will happily tell you they follow FSM procedures and/or "all that is set at the factory" "cannot adjust" "that's not the problem" etc. etc. etc. I've had problems with my first pickup until I read the FSM and figured all this out. Now I get years out of a set of pads and rotors without having to put up with the wubba-wubba feeling.
 
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6,237
Location
Kalifornia Kollective
My F-150 ate brakes. Rears went just as I bought it (83,000 miles) and fronts went shortly there after. I ask myself how a "lightly driven truck" eats brakes? Was talking to BIL (retired professional HD mechanic). He said to check the bullet in the booster. Ford has been setting them on the tight side because new customers don't want any peddle travel ... Sure enough, took the master loose and backed the bullet down a 1/2 turn. No more brake drag and only modest peddle travel smile Prolly picked up 1/2 MPG too smile
 
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Messages
2,227
Location
Lyndhurst NJ
If you have the 6 lug option, Bosch and Brembo both make rotors for the front, Id consider a set from them. I see even ATE makes a set, these are OE quality and would probably be a nice upgrade to the factory Motorcraft. Akebonos rotors are also high quality.
 
Messages
263
Location
Michigan
We started using them on the police package Tahoes that we had at work just before I retired. From what I was told they did make a difference but since I didnt do the work I couldnt say how much.
 
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25,437
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Originally Posted By: pburchett
My 2008 F150 crew cab 4x4 eats rotors. Of course it is a heavy truck with limited stopping power. I might also be hard in it. Warped the oem rotors at 5k miles when the dealership did not torque the wheels after changing the tires. Had them turned twice but they were trash at 35k. Replaced the oem rotors with Wagner’s and thermo quite pads but they seemed slightly warped out of the box. At 68k it is now time for another set of rotors or turn the Wagner’s. While not having good luck with turned rotors lately I thought I might try the Bendix severe-duty fleet pursuit rotors. http://www.bendix-brakes.com/bendix_fleet_metlok.php Anyone had any experience with these?
The Bendix are probably fine but you must make sure the hubs are clean of any rust and scale the cleaner the better then check the runout with a dial indicator, this is the step most people miss and it is one of the most important parts of the job. Also clean off the rotor face where it meets the hub.
Edit: If you are running aluminum wheels make sure to clean the inside of the wheel where it mounts on the hub. You can use a wire brush in a drill or on bigger wheels use an 5 or 6 inch orbital sander on low with 150 grit paper holding it flat and just moving it enough to get all the crud off.
 
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pburchett

Thread starter
Messages
46
Location
KY
Yep. Cleaned the hub/rotor/wheel mating surfaces before putting new rotors on. Had the OEM rotors machined with Fords on the axle resurfacing machine (think it was a Hunter brand). Then after they warped again I had them turned off the axle and they were so bad I just threw them away and purchased a set of Wagner's. Always had good luck with the Wagner brand till this set of rotors. Just got off the phone with Wagner and they said everyone had trouble with rotors a little while back but now it is straightened out and they all have better quality now. I think this translates to they got their over seas manufacturing straightened out now. I will test the run out before I remove the old Wagner's and then test the run out with whatever set I replace them with which is probably going to be the Bendix Severe Duty and if those don't work out I will go with some cyro treated rotors.
 
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