Beater Car Detail

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Originally Posted By: qwertydude
Most detailers get their good results on soft paint with diminishing abrasive because they're locked into old habits of working the polish for far too long. Works with diminishing abrasives but not with SMAT.

SMAT does require a different technique. When working by machine you generally do single passes at a time, wipe off and reapply polish to the pad and do another pass if necessary. You don't want to get into the habit of overworking SMAT polishes because you actually reduce the quality of the finish. That's the trouble people have with SMAT they use diminishing polish techniques.

Basically you'll get the proper finish on the first pass, if the defects aren't corrected by then, then you simply reload more polish and go for a second pass. The technique is quite easy compared to diminishing polishes. If you can break the old school habits you'll end up with just as good a finish even on softer paints.

As for what works with microfiber any high lubricity SMAT polish will work very well with it on most any paints. People using microfiber and diminishing abrasives basically are pretty lucky to get the results they have and likely are working with more modern harder finishes.

This is an old beater with older paint technology But M105 or M101 on a single pass might have been the better route because you can control the amount of paint removal better which is important if the paint were already in an oxidized state and still leave an acceptable finish especially if you were going to two step it.

Microfiber while able to break down the FG400 you're locked into removing as much paint as is necessary to break down the polish.


Great post. Totally agree.

Nonetheless, great job Critic!
 
Originally Posted By: qwertydude
Most detailers get their good results on soft paint with diminishing abrasive because they're locked into old habits of working the polish for far too long. Works with diminishing abrasives but not with SMAT.

SMAT does require a different technique. When working by machine you generally do single passes at a time, wipe off and reapply polish to the pad and do another pass if necessary. You don't want to get into the habit of overworking SMAT polishes because you actually reduce the quality of the finish. That's the trouble people have with SMAT they use diminishing polish techniques.

Basically you'll get the proper finish on the first pass, if the defects aren't corrected by then, then you simply reload more polish and go for a second pass. The technique is quite easy compared to diminishing polishes. If you can break the old school habits you'll end up with just as good a finish even on softer paints.

As for what works with microfiber any high lubricity SMAT polish will work very well with it on most any paints. People using microfiber and diminishing abrasives basically are pretty lucky to get the results they have and likely are working with more modern harder finishes.

This is an old beater with older paint technology But M105 or M101 on a single pass might have been the better route because you can control the amount of paint removal better which is important if the paint were already in an oxidized state and still leave an acceptable finish especially if you were going to two step it.

Microfiber while able to break down the FG400 you're locked into removing as much paint as is necessary to break down the polish.


You do bring up some very good points that I had not considered. FG400, as a diminishing product, does indeed lock you into a fixed amount of cut per buffing cycle. OTOH, perhaps a single slow pass with M101 may have achieved the same results with less material removal. I will have to get this a try next time. Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Really nice job! I noticed gas is cheaper in CA. than NY. LOL

If you don't mind me asking, how much would someone expect to pay for a detail job like that? Thanks


I also did a full interior detail on this car.

Since this was a two-step paint correction, I would expect to pay somewhere in the $600-$800 range. Usually after a paint correction, I like to install CQuartz UK or Optimum Opti-Coat, but I did not feel like spending the money since I wasn't getting paid to detail this car.
 
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Really nice job! I noticed gas is cheaper in CA. than NY. LOL

If you don't mind me asking, how much would someone expect to pay for a detail job like that? Thanks


I also did a full interior detail on this car.

Since this was a two-step paint correction, I would expect to pay somewhere in the $600-$800 range. Usually after a paint correction, I like to install CQuartz UK or Optimum Opti-Coat, but I did not feel like spending the money since I wasn't getting paid to detail this car.


Thanks, I was figuring about $750 so I was in the ballpark. If someone was going to sell that car, that type of detail could easily fetch another $1,000-$1,500 on the sale price of that car vs. the typical car wash most sellers would do to get it ready. It would have been time or money well spent if the person who owned the car was planning on selling it.
 
Ditto.
Originally Posted By: Donald
For me a beater is a car I basically fill with gas and do the basic maint. to keep it going. Not too worried if my clothes are dirty when I drive it, leave some stuff on the seats or spill a few crumbs from a Big Mac that I eat while driving. Maybe used tires. The rain washes it.
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
Critic,

I have to say out of all the posts on this site, for detailing yours are the best. The proof is in your pictures.

What type of brushes do you use to clean the rims? Those rims must have been testing your patience.

Regards, JC.

Thanks. Wheel Woolies were used. I used the small one and the spoke-back one.

Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Thanks, I was figuring about $750 so I was in the ballpark. If someone was going to sell that car, that type of detail could easily fetch another $1,000-$1,500 on the sale price of that car vs. the typical car wash most sellers would do to get it ready. It would have been time or money well spent if the person who owned the car was planning on selling it.


Thanks. To be honest, I doubt any detail would fetch any car $1k unless it was very bad to begin with. For most used car details, a very clean interior and a simple wash/clay/wax on the outside would yield a tremendous improvement with minimal time investment.

My friend didn't even see a significant difference, and he is correct (to an extent) because it is tough to make this color look spectacular. I personally thought that compounding the paint removed all of the oxidation and 70-80% of the defects, and Reflect really brought out the paint's gloss. If anyone has used Menzerna SF4500 (85rd), Reflect brings out a near-identical finish.
 
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Originally Posted By: gregk24
Wish you lived in my area!

I was thinking if the Critic is tired of California weather, he could come up here for a few days change of venue. It's only -26 C and I could find a project or two for him.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Wish you lived in my area!

I was thinking if the Critic is tired of California weather, he could come up here for a few days change of venue. It's only -26 C and I could find a project or two for him.


Doesn't that G37 have the infamous Scratchshield paint? I may have to take a pass.
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
Doesn't that G37 have the infamous Scratchshield paint?

Paradoxically it does, yet is absolutely resistant to my (likely too gentle) polishing methods. I think the real problem is the previous owner was a little overzealous with a snow brush. And it's black. The low Saturday is -37 C, but I have a heated garage, in case you need a change of scenery.
wink.gif
 
Our 3 is now 7 years old. The car has been fantastic. It's been driven hard, well maintained and has seen some good winter weather over the last few years.

My wife took her car to this "Auto Spa" car wash the other day. 95% of the time I will not go to one of these places. However, when the car is old, and when you deal with winter conditions, going to one of these places is often the best option.

Her car came out looking very good. I was just looking at the paint and it's held up extremely well. I believe the last time the car was detailed was about a year ago. BlackFire CS is what I used.

I'll see if I can take some pics.

I like to keep my cars clean, but I've yet to take it to the next level with a polisher. I plan on it soon before we sell her car.

I have to say though, as much as I like to keep the car clean, I hate the process. Clean and having no scratches/perfect paint etc. are a different animal to me. For a daily driver, it's simply a waste of time to go to that level.

My Honda sold quick because it was clean and maintained. A pro would have seen many flaws with the paint. 99% of the public would not.

This type of process would only be worth it to me if i had a car that was garage kept. Or maybe something you do every 1-2 years?

Maybe I'll get hooked once I try it and find it to be not a big deal.
 
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