Battery Testers ???

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Mar 30, 2015
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Lake Havasu City, Arizona
With electronic technology getting better and cheaper what seems like daily, these things are getting affordable enough to warrant the purchase. I'm looking at getting this one.


It is rated #1 of the top ten tested, and it tests everything. All types of batteries, (both in and out of the vehicle), charging system, (both 12 & 24 volts), both under load, and at idle, along with the starter.

They all require you to enter the CCA, (cold cranking amps), of the battery being tested. That could be somewhat of a PITA on my Jeep, because the battery is located under the seat. (It does have under the hood jumper posts to connect the unit). And I don't know if I'll be able to get that information without having to remove the battery. Which is another total PITA. Both my Toyota and my truck have easy under the hood access.

Have any of you guys bought one of these recently? If so what kind did you get, and how do you like it? One thing I noticed, is there's a big price jump on a lot of these things that come with a printer...... Which I have no need for. Besides, this unit will connect via Bluetooth to your PC printer, if you so desire it.

This just seems like one of those tools that has gotten cheap enough to allow most anyone to have one. It will allow you to check your entire battery and electrical system, so you don't have to worry about some unscrupulous shop raping you for things you don't need.
 
The CCA is needed to give you a pass or fail result, if you put any number in you will still get accurate CCA results but have to determine by yourself if it's a pass or fail

Still using an old midtronics device myself
 
The CCA is needed to give you a pass or fail result, if you put any number in you will still get accurate CCA results but have to determine by yourself if it's a pass or fail

Still using an old midtronics device myself
So...... Without entering the batteries CCA, (or just punch in what you guess it is), you'll still get the actual CCA the battery is producing during the test, but you won't be able to compare it to the advertised CCA because you don't know it...... Correct?

Another thing is my Jeep has a AGM battery. However, I have no idea if it's a "flat" or a "spiral" mat. (Something else this tester asks you). I'm just guessing here, but would a "spiral mat" be one of those Optima AGM batteries with the 6 round cells?
 
So...... Without entering the batteries CCA, (or just punch in what you guess it is), you'll still get the actual CCA the battery is producing during the test, but you won't be able to compare it to the advertised CCA because you don't know it...... Correct?

Another thing is my Jeep has a AGM battery. However, I have no idea if it's a "flat" or a "spiral" mat. (Something else this tester asks you). I'm just guessing here, but would a "spiral mat" be one of those Optima AGM batteries with the 6 round cells?

Yes, the spirals are like optima uses.

The testers don't actually measure CCA, they measure internal resistance and voltage. Then they calculate amps and adjust for temperature. Different battery types respond differently to lower temperatures so that's why they want to know flat or spiral AGM, flooded etc...

But in the end you get a fairly decent result, beats puttig the batteries in a freezer and using a carbon pile tester to get actual results...
 
I was thinking of getting one, but the garage I started going to did a check for me, didn’t ask either. Said it was getting low. 5 years old, leaking a bit, so I figured they weren’t lying. Easier and cheaper than getting a tester—usually I just go until it dies.

One wallyworld special out, one wallyworld special back in.

Not sure if I should just start replacing on a schedule. Also not sure what it means for my hybrid, it has a 12V but not sure what will happen when it starts to act up (other than bad things).
 
Supton, can't say with any certainty, but the last few weeks I've seen quite a few toyota hybrids on flatbeds or being towed, with lights flashing in erratic manner, I suspect a 12V battery issue. Roadside assistance will generally just tow, especially with the 5 year warranty. So I believe they are not immune to bad 12V batteries. Hyundais definitely need 12V to do some checks before attempting starting.

They were newer than your cars though.
 
I’m sure it will do bad things when it goes. Am hoping I can just swap without issue, have not looked into yet. Am hoping I don’t need a scanner just to change it, but who knows these days.

But I’m not sure if old school CCA matters here… its not cranking anything. Just a big filter cap I think.
 
Always cheaper directly from China, they can ship cheaper to the US than stores that stock it in the US and ship to you.

Unless it’s broken and you need to return for warranty work, or you just do not like it. I’ll stick to my methods.
 
if you're just looking for a battery tester (and not the OBD stuff) I have a few of these and have been very happy with them. I bought one for $40 on amazon and 2 more for about $25ea on aliexpress and they are identical. the cca measurement is an estimate, but I believe its pretty close based on comparing it to real load testing of many batteries in various states of health. it's also highly precise/repeatable so its very useful for tracking over time. one of the more useful tools I've come across recently.
 
I’ve expressed my like of the HF tester that implies an impedance value.

You either know impedance and capacity or you don’t.

Load testing gives you the impedance at least within close reason.

I’m not sure I’d spend $100+ on one of these systems.

I’d rather use a good multimeter that samples fast to get max/min when cranking the engine, and decide from there.
 
The carbon pile load testers give the most accurate evaluation of the battery condition. But the battery needs to be fully charged. The newer batter testers like a Midtronics are faster and can be used on a battery that is not fully charged.
 
I got it, and tested the battery in my Jeep, and it says it's a POS that needs replacement. The charging system is working fine.

Just for the hell of it, I bought the $6 one from Harbor Freight that plugs into the cigarette lighter, and it said it was DEAD! (It still cranks slowly, and starts the vehicle). So it's new battery time, to say the least.
 
I have a Solar brand one that I've used for years that seems to work well. I recently bought the Thinkcar battery tester that works with my Thinktool Pros scanner but have not used it yet.
 
Got the Autool BT360 off eBay, ~$40, after learning about internal resistance being an important measure, but there's likely someone here that can explain that better. Checks the starter and alternator too.
 
Got the Autool BT360 off eBay, ~$40, after learning about internal resistance being an important measure, but there's likely someone here that can explain that better. Checks the starter and alternator too.

I picked up an Autool BT460 on Amazon about a year ago for the fire sale price of $25. I use it multiple times a day, and have compared it's results to the much more expensive battery tester that our quick lube uses. The readings have always been within a few CCA's and ohms of each other.
 
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