Battery Recommendations ?

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Lately my truck (2004 GMC Sierra 1500) has been starting a little slower than normal. Not surprisingly since I've been plowing with it this week and its taken a beating. The plow draws quite a few amps, and it was getting to the point that the guage would dip to 9 volts when lifting or angling the plow.

One of the respected mechanics on a plow forum suggested an Interstate battery (I think MT 78).

Any of you guru's know what brand and size would be an appropriate replacement? Obviously it needs to be durable and be able to handle the cycling of the plow.

Thanks!
 
Group 78 is the size.
Walmart has a '78' Maxx suitable that would be easy enough to locate and not overpriced.

You'll just kill the new battery. What you need is a bigger alternator. What alternator(amps) size do you have now?

Other options are bigger batteries(use a tape measure) or isolated dual batteries.
 
The truck has a 110 amp alternator. It will be on the list of upgrades too, but not in the cards right now. Along with dual batteries. Actually I have the list of parts to add a factory dual battery setup to the truck, but I planned on doing this upgrade with a alternator. With the winter we're having, I won't be plowing much more anyway, so if I replace the battery it will last through the year.

Who makes Wally Worlds batteries? The local parts store that I frequent sells Douglas brand batteries, any good?
 
How about you get the largest marine deep cycle battery that will fit. A deep cycle of the same size normally has less CCA than a starting battery, but it can get fully discharged and not have problems. Some marine batteries only have wing nuts but many have both posts and wing nuts. Few if any have side terminals.
 
I doubt Interstate batteries are any bettter that the rest, just more expenive.

I may be mistaken but I was sure Johnson Controls makes WM brand batteries and also is the same who makes Interstate.

When you plow, have you been driving the truck around later so the battery gets charged back up?
 
Its the alternator.

Ebay has the GM 145 amp alternators for ~$100.

Check you local auto salvage for the heavy duty alternator.
 
Your truck came with a 770 amp battery. (if it's a 5.3) An 875 amp battery will fit in the same space. You should also invest on an automatic trickle charger. Those plow pumps suck up power like crazy.
 
get the largest battery that you can fit. Who makes it doesn't really matter, there's nothing special to auto lead-acid batteries. The best thing you can do is bring a digital volt meter with you and grab the ones with the highest voltage, preferably 12.6 volts and higher. If they're < 12.50 to 12.55 consider not getting it because it's discharged 25%-50%. Also look at the manufacture date and the ship date! You want to get the latest manufacture date. If it doesn't have a manuf. nor ship date on it then don't get it because there's no telling how old it is. I also recommend putting the new battery on charge properly before installing it to get it back to 100%. Otherwise, if you throw a new battery in your truck that's already discharged 25% or more, you may never recharge it to 100% running the truck, then the battery will sulfate, become weak, and fail earlier than it should.

Don't buy a deep cycle battery, they are not meant to discharge high current rapidly, as in starting a motor or running a plow. Get a regular old starting battery.

unless you're running the plow hydraulics with the motor not running, you shouldn't hurt the battery. You're only drawing heavy for a brief amount of time, even if it is more than the alternator can put out and that energy is coming from the battery, the battery is getting recharged all the time you're not hitting the plow buttons which is like 97% of the time. Would be no different than starting the truck from the batteries point of view.

It's normal for the lights to dim and the voltage gauge to drop a few volts. For a 2004, more than likely your alternator is fine.
What rpms is the engine at when you run the plow? If you're idling at 600-700 rpms then no alternator in the world will put out the power you need. The rpms need to be 1500-2000 or greater for the alt. to put out significant amperage, unless you change the alternator pulley so it spins faster. Factor in the rpms, whether you're running the radio, heat on high, high beams, and any other accessories and that might simply be the problem. Do you know the amperage draw of the plow? I wouldn't expect it to be more than 40 amps. An easy way to check things is cycle your plow while in neutral and holding the engine at 2000-2500 rpms. If you still get a massive voltage drop then it's a weak alternator or batteries or both.
 
Walmart MAXX 1N came in first for your group size, when Consumer Reports tested batteries (Oct 06). Interstate and Costco Kirkland came in towards the bottom. I own two 1N's and they have been doing fine for four years in two separate vehicles.
 
I was very happy to learn that Volvo's replacement batteries are now made by Varta. Several years ago that was not the case, and they weren't holding up. We just replaced one with one of these Vartas. A very nice battery.

Otherwise, East Penn Manufacturing (Deka) is at the top of my replacement list, and their factory is within driving distance. I consider them a notch better than Interstate.
 
Quote:


who makes the walmart batteries guys?




I can happily confirm Walmart EverStart batteries are made by JC. At 8 years and 170k miles, I am still waiting for my 99 Civic OEM (Panasonic) battery to give up the ghost. When it does, EverStart is only $49 and has more CCAs than factory (435 vs. 410). There were essentially no physical difference between EverStart and AutoZone's Duralast, another JC product. Even saw the same date sticker on both brands.

http://www.autobatteries.com/brands/index.asp
 
upgrade the alternator.iirc you want a delco cs144.
get the largest optima yellowtop that will fit your tray.
good starting battery that wont suffer badly from deep cycling due to the plow.
 
Quote:



What rpms is the engine at when you run the plow? If you're idling at 600-700 rpms then no alternator in the world will put out the power you need.




Ford's 130-amp 3G alternators put out 80 amps at idle. They were specifically designed to put out more amperage at idle compared to the previous 2G alternators.

I had a 75-amp 2G alternator. It's output at idle was pretty poor. I replaced it with a rewound 130-amp 2G alternator. Same deal, in fact it might have been worse. (Interestingly, I had emailed a guy who bought one of these rewound 2G alternators for his snow plow truck and he said it helped. Guess he didn't run at idle much?)

Finally I put a 130-amp 3G alternator in and I have all of the power I could want at idle. The voltage gauge never drops at idle like it used to, not even with every accessory in the car turned on.

The point is, there are alternators out there that have pretty good output at idle, but they have to be designed for that. In the case of the 3G alternator, I believe it was designed to provide large amounts of power at idle for vehicles with electric cooling fans. Some of these electric cooling fans use a LOT of current.
 
Thanks for the great info!

Over the summer I'll upgrade the electrical system with the 145 amp GM alternator and dual batteries. But for now I'll try the Wally World MAXX battery.

As far as how I plow, the last storm was a killer anyway. Most times the truck would not be plowing that long. I plow in first gear and use low range, partly for the snow load and partly to keep the RPMs up for the charging system. But lifting the plow is almost always combined with backing up, so the point of greatest current draw is the point at which the charging is weakest. Oh and don't forget the needed defrost, lights and radio. It really doesn't surprise me that the battery is getting weak.

However, with some nomal driving this week, it seems the battery is recharging slowly too. It started better each day this week. I guess the trickle charger / maintainer is needed in my upgrades too.
 
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