Battery cranking test

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May 21, 2021
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Long story short: 2020 Escalade. Check engine light randomly went on 3x in 2 weeks from different computer systems. Across different systems and so they lead to low voltage at startup being the cause.

The battery SOC and CCA's still showed good, but the cranking test showed ~8.5v minimum during crank which supposedly is well below the 9.6v+ it should be. AI says it's either battery, cable's, or starter is going and pulling way too much power. I have not had any issues with the car starting and it fires up every time. Trusted mechanic friend says cables going bad are common. I replaced the negative cable, the short positive cable going to the distribution fuse box, and the distribution fuse box. The only cable I didn't replace is from the distribution fuse box to the starter b+ terminal. I did check the connections and they look good and I did a votlage drop test on the cable and it checked out good at ~220mV.

I redid a crank test and it showed the same ~8.5v minimum. No check engine lights, but that doesn't mean anything since they would come randomly, give issues, then go away. I ended up replacing the battery as well, and it didn't help the the crank test.

My trusted mechanic friend says I replaced the most important parts and at this point to just drive it and see if it comes back. AI says thats bad advice because the 8.5v low is well below standards and something is still wrong so it's got to be the starter going bad and needs replacement. But I also know AI is wrong all the time, and while that is in fact low, maybe it's normal for power hungry escalades? (Or my consumer grade tester isn't up to par?)

Obviously I can just drive it, but the wife is very hesitant as it has had us stranded before. (the system that threw the code refused to put the car into gear until it fully timed out and reset).

Anyone have any advice?
 
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I can't tell, but have you done a load test on the battery separate from being connected to the vehicle? That would give you the information you seek.

I can tell you this, just like on my Tiguan it triggered about 8 codes, everything from some goofy HVAC problem to a burned out left tail light, none of which were legitimately bad. Nary a "bad battery" code, but that was the problem. I replaced it with new and magically everything was corrected.

So if you haven't done it I would run a load test on the battery and see what you get.
 
I can't tell, but have you done a load test on the battery separate from being connected to the vehicle? That would give you the information you seek.

I can tell you this, just like on my Tiguan it triggered about 8 codes, everything from some goofy HVAC problem to a burned out left tail light, none of which were legitimately bad. Nary a "bad battery" code, but that was the problem. I replaced it with new and magically everything was corrected.

So if you haven't done it I would run a load test on the battery and see what you get.
Sorry, I forgot to include that before posting this I did replace the battery as well just now and crank test shows the same thing.
 
Sorry, I forgot to include that before posting this I did replace the battery as well just now and crank test shows the same thing.
Oh well then that narrows it down a bit. Can you perform a starter draw test? The repair manual might give acceptable amperage values.
 
Oh well then that narrows it down a bit. Can you perform a starter draw test? The repair manual might give acceptable amperage values.
Just tested. it is a steady 157-162 amps draw over a 4 second long crank (held it that long on purpose). From my understanding that is within acceptable range.
 
Why can't they do a voltage drop test on the powers and grounds to determine if it's an actual wiring problem?
 
Sounds like a dying starter IMO, but, it's only 6 yrs old. That's pretty sad. Perform a starter draw test if you can, or take it to a shop and let them do it. That will narrow it down before you spring for a new starter. You already probably spent a decent amount of money on a battery that you didn't need yet -(
 
Sounds like a dying starter IMO, but, it's only 6 yrs old. That's pretty sad. Perform a starter draw test if you can, or take it to a shop and let them do it. That will narrow it down before you spring for a new starter. You already probably spent a decent amount of money on a battery that you didn't need yet -(
Luckily I was able to have the guy replace the last battery under the battery warranty..... I did just do a starter draw test . It is a steady 157-162 amps draw over a 4 second long crank (held it that long on purpose). From my understanding that is within acceptable range.

For reference to everyone, here is the battery crank test results that I am talking about.

20260331_092733.webp
 
If you don't have a voltmeter in your gauges get a cigarette lighter plug in voltmeter for $10 from Amazon or the parts store and watch your voltage output as you drive around. If it suddenly drops out it can be the alternator
 
If you don't have a voltmeter in your gauges get a cigarette lighter plug in voltmeter for $10 from Amazon or the parts store and watch your voltage output as you drive around. If it suddenly drops out it can be the alternator
My dash shows it and it's never below 14.4.... Usually 14.8 or so.
 
I think this is one of those situations where a confirming load test with carbon pile (resistance) test may show a failing battery, but the conductance test on a digital tester can show it still "good".

I have been in this situation once several years ago and the carbon pile tester was more reliable. I prefer to use a digital tester, as it is not as hard on the battery. So whenever I am in a "gray" area like the situation above, I simply replace the battery if it is failing the cranking test on the digital tester. After all, the cranking test is more like the resistance test the carbon pile tester performs.
 
I think this is one of those situations where a confirming load test with carbon pile (resistance) test may show a failing battery, but the conductance test on a digital tester can show it still "good".

I have been in this situation once several years ago and the carbon pile tester was more reliable. I prefer to use a digital tester, as it is not as hard on the battery. So whenever I am in a "gray" area like the situation above, I simply replace the battery if it is failing the cranking test on the digital tester. After all, the cranking test is more like the resistance test the carbon pile tester performs.
Battery already replaced!
 
I think this is one of those situations where a confirming load test with carbon pile (resistance) test may show a failing battery, but the conductance test on a digital tester can show it still "good".

I have been in this situation once several years ago and the carbon pile tester was more reliable. I prefer to use a digital tester, as it is not as hard on the battery. So whenever I am in a "gray" area like the situation above, I simply replace the battery if it is failing the cranking test on the digital tester. After all, the cranking test is more like the resistance test the carbon pile tester performs.
+1
Have you had a test performed with a carbon pile tester yet?
+1
 
Happy that you got the battery replaced under warranty -), and glad the starter passed the draw test. That narrowed things down quite a bit. I'm out of suggestions here. But, there are probably over 50 computers / ECU's on that Escalade doing various different things. Hope it's not one of them. Too much technology going in nowadays. Best of luck finding this annoying problem. Let us know if you figure it out.
 
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