Battery Charger Testing Results

I was talking about those super cheap harbor freight chargers maintainers as that's what I thought you were referring to. I actually trust those more than my larger chargers as they don't have enough current to boil the batteries easily at 13.4-ish volts.
Admittedly, only a very few brands of battery tenders/chargers offer temperature compensation. I'm uncertain it is a "must have" feature, but it certainly doesn't hurt. My Pulse Tech and two each, Granite Digital "save a battery" battery tenders do not have temperature compensation...only my four Battery Minder brand. But the feature can prevent overcharging in hot weather and under charging in very cold weather. But even in "mild" Seattle, I can get temps in the upper 20's in winter in my garage and I can monitor the float voltage creep up to 14vt and drop below 13vt went it is over 100F
 
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But even in "mild" Seattle, I can get temps in the upper 20's in winter in my garage and I can monitor the float voltage creep up to 14vt and drop below 13vt went it is over 100F
Today the temperature range from the weather service is 64F to 93F. However, the Prius 12V is below the cargo deck in the rear of the car, and even with all the windows open, with the car parked in direct sun in the driveway, the 12V would see something more like 70F to 110F. The Battery Tender Jr. isn't temperature compensated, and even if it was, the convenient spot to attach it as at the jump point under the hood. This makes charging the 12V during the summer problematic. Probably I should do it only at night where the temperatures are more modest and much closer to 70F than during the day. However, I don't like leaving a live 120V extension cord, or the hood open, unattended overnight in the driveway.

It would be a little easier in the garage, where the whole car would be close to the ambient temperature within that volume, so that temperature compensation could apply even without a sensor right on the battery. Unfortunately clearing out enough space to put a car in there would require the services of both Hercules and a divorce lawyer.
 
Today the temperature range from the weather service is 64F to 93F. However, the Prius 12V is below the cargo deck in the rear of the car, and even with all the windows open, with the car parked in direct sun in the driveway, the 12V would see something more like 70F to 110F. The Battery Tender Jr. isn't temperature compensated, and even if it was, the convenient spot to attach it as at the jump point under the hood. This makes charging the 12V during the summer problematic. Probably I should do it only at night where the temperatures are more modest and much closer to 70F than during the day. However, I don't like leaving a live 120V extension cord, or the hood open, unattended overnight in the driveway.
The jump connections on one of my BMWs is located under the hood, and I'm not going to repeatedly open the hood to charge the car (I've replaced the hood cable on one of my BMWs twice over the past 20 years, lesson learned). My solution was the lengthen the ring terminal/SAE plug and run it up to the windshield wiper opening on the passenger side. Now I can plug in anytime I want, very easily.

I also purchased a 20ft SAE extension cord that runs under my garage door out to the driveway.

M550iX battery set up.webp
 
I pulled my 2011 Delco battery off its BatteryMinder yesterday to put into my pop up camper to power its lights. Yes 2011 factory battery from my old Tahoe. I pulled the battery out of it in 2016 as not to trust it for sub zero winter starts when up north snowmobiling.
Put an Odyssey in it, truck has since been traded in back in '23. Delco battery sticker says 6 yr. on it.
Put my HF resistor pack style load tester on it out of BITOG curiosity and it still read 600 amps. After the load test voltage was at 12.65.
I pried open the cell caps, levels were just a hair over the plates, topped off with distilled water and into the camper it went for its once a year trip.
IMO the BM maintainer / conditioners are the best for the money, hands down. 1A and 1.5A temp. comp. units I've gotten from Northern Hyd. on sale.
I am dumbfounded that this battery is still hanging in. Yes its on the BM 24/7 for 359 days a year and its seen zero temps in the garage for the last 2 years.
 
There is an interesting article here:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/fighting-sulfation-in-agms

where a bunch of marine AGM batteries are tested and it is shown that if they are significantly discharged and are not then fully recharged they all lose capacity. (One LFP battery was also tested and it didn't have this problem.) This paragraph from the article pretty much sums it up:

What was striking in our tests was the speed at which the AGM batteries began walking down when put through partial state of charge conditions. On the first charge cycle, every single AGM battery we tested took the full charge rate (46 percent of amp-hour capacity) for the entire hour. The batteries remained in the bulk charging stage for the entire hour, allowing for very efficient charging. By the second cycle, some batteries were already beginning to walk down, and were attaining the absorption voltage by the end of the hour. Within a few cycles, all of the AGM batteries were attaining absorption voltage near the end of the one-hour recharge. With each successive PSOC cycle, absorption voltage was attained earlier and earlier in the short one-hour charge cycle, and the batteries began slowly walking down. This walking down effect in usable capacity was caused by sulfation.

So if a person drives a taxi with an AGM battery, and the battery is being charged all day, it will probably remain at full capacity for a very long time. However, for cars which are not driven frequently or only on short trips each day, a charger is the only way to maintain full capacity. That is probably too broad a statement. The OEM 45 Ah AGM battery in our 2007 Prius states that it should not be charged at more than 4.2A and the charging system no doubt has that wired in. On other cars with less fussy batteries it may be that short drives are sufficient to recharge fully because they can push more current into the battery in the same time.
 
There is an interesting article here:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/systems-propulsion/fighting-sulfation-in-agms

"This walking down effect in usable capacity was caused by sulfation"
All AGM and flooded acid batteries are subject to sulfation, and to varying degrees based on their use. None seem immune.

I have been impressed with the Battery Minder 2012 and 128CEC2 and their ability to restore batteries that were maintained on other brand maintainers I own. In two cases the batteries started showing the CCA falling off. I switched to plugging them into Battery Minders several times a week for several weeks and they improved significantly...to the point of meeting or exceeding their CCA ratings. I can only assume the desulfation "pulse" algorithm they use is what is bringing them back.

Its clear that all car batteries can benefit from a couple overnight uses a week of a Battery Minder battery tender with its desulfation ability. And cars that sit for weeks or months between use should be connected continously. I have stuck to this for several years now, and its working great. Only in the past two or three years did I switch to Battery Minder from other brands of battery tenders.

My 2018 BMW M550ix has two factory original AGM batteries, one starting and one aux battery. I don't fully understand how the cars charging system ECU works, but my work around has been to get a Battery Minder Y adapter and charge both batteries of a single Battery Minder 128CEC2 tender. It is very simply to connect up and sits on a tender in my garage whenever parked. Been doing this for about three years now and the main starting battery tests at well over its rating (1000 CCA+) and the aux battery tests at around 90%. Not bad for 7.5 year old factory BMW/Varta batteries.
 
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Yesterday I tested a BatteryMinder 1500 on the "no maintenance" flooded battery in our 1998 Accord. This is a pretty new battery, made in 2/2024 and purchased and installed in 3/2004. This charger is a "wall wart" type of design, but here I wanted to see how it would work when placed close to the battery. (The instructions say not to do that because of possible corrosion from battery fumes.) Here is how it was oriented:

battery_1.webp


Note that the temperature sensor is sitting right on the negative post clamp, and is extended away from the charger itself. Voltage measurements were made on the post clamps with a UT210E multimeter, and current measurements were made around the negative charger lead using that multimeter's DC clamp ammeter function. Measurements were for the most part made on the half hour. When the sulfation check was (probably) running an extra reading at 15 minutes was made. Temperature readings on the battery and the charger were made with a Centech infrared thermometer. The charger was turned on at 13:00, there was one battery reading made shortly before that, and there was a 5 minute delay before the first readings during charging were made. The temperature readings start late because I only thought of it part way through the charge cycle.

Here are the measured values:

accord_battery_test_2025_08_27.webp


The car had been in the sun and then shade extended over it front to back starting at 14:30. The temperature compensation is evident in the absorption phase, where the voltage is slowly going up (would be fixed at a fixed temperature) while the battery temperature goes down. There are two current values because at some points it was oscillating over a range of currents and the ones shown are (near) the low and high points of that range. The voltage didn't vary enough to matter while those rapid current changes were taking place.

Overall the charger behaved mostly as expected. It did get quite warm, and since the temperature sensor is close to it, that might be an issue if the sensor wasn't just dangling down below it, or if there was air motion in the room blowing air down from the charger over the sensor. I am going to put the temperature sensor out on an extension, so it will be far from the charger. The charger only has 3 LEDs and there was no way to see the change from bulk to absorption, both were green solid, blue flash, green flash. Maintenance was green solid, blue flash, green solid. During the sulfation test the last LED is supposed to be off (where the current dips down to zero), but I never observed that. It might have only been in that state briefly. As mentioned before in this thread, the charger is desulfating all the time, that is what the blue flash LED indicates.
 
I don't believe there is a sulfation check with Battery Minders. They don't have a specific desulfation step. They claim it is continously run throughout.
 
There is one documented in the manual for this device:

https://www.batteryminders.com/content/manuals/BatteryMINDer-Plus-1500-Series-072415-RevC.pdf

You can see in the measurement where it dropped the current to zero briefly, and that only happens during that check. See page 13.

Not sure WHY it checks though, because as you have noted before, the "desulfating" LED is flashing all the time.
Thanks for pointing that out.
Yup, I noticed the voltage drop about ever 12 hours on my 2012AGM and 128CEC2s...but was unsure of their purpose. In the manuals for them, it states it is a "battery test" and lasts about 10 minutes.
 
Here is a comparison of the Battery Minder wall wart from Northern Tool (1 amp) then I switched over to the Battery Minder 2012AGM. You can see the difference in the algorithm. The NT version does not do the battery test every 12 hours, and its temperature compensation is more mild, compared to the 2012agm. Battery Minder admits the NT version wall wart does not use the same algorithm as their other products.


IMG_5598.webp
 
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I was curious what the thermal sensor was on the BatteryMinder 1500 (seems to be the same one used on all models). It seemed likely that it was an NTC Thermistor, so measured its resistance at 3 different temperatures

1. In the fridge after 10 minutes (wires out the closed door to meter).
2. At room temperature in an air conditioned house
3. In a closed car slowly cooling off after being in the sun, after 10 minutes.

The measurements were:

1: 21500 Ohm @ 7.8C (a separate fridge thermometer read 3.5C)
2: 9230 Ohm @ 26C
3: 7130 Ohm @ 34C

Those are consistent with an NTC Thermistor, but which one?

Used this calculator:

https://www.thinksrs.com/downloads/programs/therm calc/ntccalibrator/ntccalculator.html

to figure out its resistance at 25C and its beta value. Which came to:

9643 Ohm, Beta 3905

but use 3.5C instead of 7.8C and it becomes instead 9557 Ohm, beta 3110.

It turns out that this is a lot harder to do accurately in practice than one would think. Issues: the sensor takes a while to come to thermal equilibrium with its environment and I don't know what that time constant is (it is embedded in a fairly large block of plastic), some of the environments didn't have a temperature which was actually stable to 1 degree C (the car was slowly cooling, the air conditioning was cycling in the house), the instant read thermometer I was using turned out to not be accurate at low temperatures (disagreed by 4.3C with the analog fridge thermometer) and perhaps was not accurate enough at any temperature for this method (in cooking 25C or 27C are usually equivalent, but not so here), and the Steinhart-Hart method of calculating beta is very touchy about slight changes in temperature readings. So this is probably a 10 kOhm NTC thermistor but the beta value isn't nailed down at all well, it could be anywhere from 3000 to 4000. If I had to guess it would be that it is near 3950, but just because that is a very commonly used value. The manufacturer could well have picked a device with some other beta.

Perhaps I will buy a few NTC thermistors in that range and just test them side by side in my garage. That space has no AC and it heats up and cools down slowly. If nothing else, one of these devices can be used to accurately measure the temperature.
 
Obtained two thermistors Vishay NTCALUG01T103FL and NTCALUG02A103F161L from Digikey which were supposed to be beta 3984 and 3435 respectively. Except when I read the spec sheet for the first one I missed that all of the units were 3984 except one, which was also 3435, and guess which one I clicked on? Anyway the two thermistors are actually slightly different physically, most evidently by the first having much thicker wires coming out, whereas the wires for the .*161L unit are very thin, almost as small as headphone wires. To minimize temperature variation measurements were made in the (closed) garage, on top of the (long inactive) dryer. First a sealed furnace filter was put down then two brown paper shopping bags (so that they thermistors would track air temperature rather than the case temperature of the heavy metal dryer), then these two thermistors and the one from the BM1500 were placed close together. Those and the wires with clips to attach to them were left in the garage at all times so that they would be at the same temperature. At semiregular intervals I would go out to the garage, quickly measure the resistance of each thermistor by attaching one end of each prewarmed clip wire to the thermistor and the other to the UT210E multimeter lead, and then measure the temperature of the same spot on a bag (brown paper, no ink) near them with an IR thermometer from about the same distance. When the temperature peaked and then started falling (by a fraction of a degree) in the late afternoon measurements were stopped. Data were then plotted using gnuplot along with the theoretical curves for a perfect thermistor 10K@25C with beta 3435 and 3950. Here is that plot:

thermistor_curves.webp


This shows that the BatteryMinder 1500 sensor is 10k@25C, beta 3950 (or very close to it, possibly 3984). Two types of experimental errors are visible. In one the IR thermometer measurement is off, and that drags all 3 data plots off the theoretical lines. See for instance the points at 36.1 C. I believe the thermometer was having systematic problems operating near 40C, which is why all the points there diverged a little from the theoretical curve. Additionally, the tiny wires on the .*161L thermistor seemed to sometimes make a poor connection, adding a little bit of resistance. I don't know if that was a purely mechanical thing or if there was some sort of coating on it, perhaps a thin layer of insulation left after it was stripped.

The thermistor that came with the charger is embedded in a block of plastic, and it responds somewhat slowly to temperature changes. However, these lug thermistors are much smaller and the lug is metal and conducts heat well. When air blows over them their resistance changes swiftly. For that reason, if one is going to be used with the BatteryMinder instead of the supplied thermistor the lug needs to be fastened tightly, for a good thermal connection, to one of the battery posts or possibly the thick cables coming off them. (Ideally it would be embedded in the battery case, as is done with lithium batteries, but doing that after the fact with a lead acid battery is more likely to break the battery than it is to give better temperature measurements. I strongly suspect that if they are not firmly attached their readings could easily be off 2 or 3 degrees C, or more. That wouldn't be the end of the world (look at the temperature curves for float/charge vs. temperature), but if one is going to temperature compensate the charger, it really should be for the temperature of the battery, which is the only temperature which matters.
 
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I haven't worried too much about the battery temperature as all but my truck, the batteries are located in the trunk and not subject to engine heat. And since they are garaged, the battery and Battery Minders share the same environment. I can't see them differing by a significant amount to worry about...My opinion is "close enough". Plus I like making a single connection to the battery pig tail...not interested in running another cord to each vehicle. :)

Battery Minder sells remote thermistors, but the cords are much too short to be useful for me. (6ft) It appears you make a connection to the negative battery terminal.
https://www.batteryminders.com/at-the-battery-temperature-sensor-abs-248

"The ABS-248 At-the-Battery Temperature Sensor remotely informs the BatteryMINDer® of the batteries’ ambient temperature if they are not in the same ambient temperature as the BatteryMINDer®. This is necessary to ensure the correct Charging Profile to prevent over- or under-charging."
 
The battery in our Prius has been on the BatteryMinder 1500 charger for a total of 38h and 47 minutes so far, and I'm not seeing a positive trend anywhere in the battery test data. I was hoping to see the SOH and the voltage go up, and maybe the resistance go down a little. (Battery tester being used is this one:

https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-digital-battery-and-system-tester-58759.html
)

It is only being charged during the day at the moment as I have not yet obtained the right thermistor and drilled a hole for "remote" (no doors open) charging. On each run it reaches the float stage, where it sits for hours at 13.16V with a current of around .07A to .09A (of which around .015A goes right back out for the parasitic load). It is a Toyota OEM AGM battery, part number 00544-21181-320, size S46B24R, and is about 4 years old. SOH is wandering around in the 85-90% range, SOC is 99-100% when tested but the voltage is 12.60 - 12.74V, which is a little low for an AGM. Resistance is maybe trending upwards, from ~8.35 to ~8.55 mOhms (and no, I don't believe that data is significant yet.) I think most of the variation is just from changes in temperature and waiting slightly different lengths of time after, at the start of each run, unlocking the doors, opening the hatch and triggering the receiver side, then relocking the doors. Just that action is enough to pull the voltage down into the 12.40V range, and it takes around 4 minutes to fully "relax" back to its resting voltage.

While I'm sure the battery is sulfated to some extent, a bigger problem is likely that it is dried out. It gets quite hot in Southern California. Toyota doesn't list the weight of this battery, but on an Accuteck All-in-1 Series W-8250 50 lb scale it came in at 10638 g. Externally the most similar looking battery I could find in pictures on the Web was the Walmart Everstart Maxx

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStar...Group-Size-S46B24R-12-Volt-410-CCA/1247321234

Other than the stickers the two batteries seem to be identical externally. They have the same sorts of "fins" on the body of the battery, both are stamped "made in Korea", and both have the same tamper proof cell covers. (Like tamper proof screws. There are triangular cross section spokes coming out of the center such that one top face of each spoke is vertical and the other is at a shallow slope. The cap could be screwed in using the flat side of the spoke, but it could not be screwed out because the tool will slide up the slope in that direction.) Even that Walmart battery weighs more though, at "26 lb" (surely an approximation) or 11793 gm. Seems unlikely this battery has lost 1 kg of water though and is still operating, so the Toyota one probably has less lead in it than the Walmart one. Or the "26 lb" in the Walmart specification is just wrong.
 
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