I wanna grease up my ball joints and control arm end links but here are no grease fittings on them. So I am guessing I should remove them and grease them manually? 1995 ALtima
Ball joints and control arms greasing
- Thread starter zeke1985
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They're sealed from the factory...lifetime lubrication!
Of course, that lifetime might be a bit shorter than the greasable kind...
JK, I've actually had them last a good long time on various cars with sealed balljoints and links...
Of course, that lifetime might be a bit shorter than the greasable kind...
JK, I've actually had them last a good long time on various cars with sealed balljoints and links...
I was a bit sceptical when I first encountered sealed u-joints on driveshafts but they seem to last for a very long time and they eliminate the labour-intensive process of crawling under a vehicle and greasing the u-joints.
Do you mean sway bar end links?
I don't know what a control arm end link is.
I don't know what a control arm end link is.
Sealed joints can last a long time, in my experience. Some fresh grease might help them last a little longer, but there's no way it's worth the effort of removing them. I don't even know how you'd adequately inject the grease once you did get them off.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Do you mean sway bar end links?
I don't know what a control arm end link is.
LOL I meant tie rod. Got in a hurry trying to post this before work. And I had control arm bushings on my mind...
Do you mean sway bar end links?
I don't know what a control arm end link is.
LOL I meant tie rod. Got in a hurry trying to post this before work. And I had control arm bushings on my mind...
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I can't see worrying about that on an Altima if you're not driving through a battlefield. Tie rod ends usually last at least until the rack needs a rebuild and original ball joints are likely enough to still be good after the body falls off.
Just leave them alone and they should last about 140,000-180,000 miles if you drive your Nissan Altima where there is no road salt.
You can lube them on the car. You need to obtain a package of "grese needles" they are avaliable at NAPA are only a few bucks for two and fit in the end of a manual ONLY grease gun. Simply insert the needle into the rubber boot and pump grease until the boot swells nicely then remove the needle. The puncture hole it leaves is far too small for the thick grease to come out.I have been using them for years with no issues.
Don't worry about it until it comes time to replace them. The replacement
ball joints and tie rod ends will likely come with grease zerks.
ball joints and tie rod ends will likely come with grease zerks.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Don't worry about it until it comes time to replace them. The replacement
ball joints and tie rod ends will likely come with grease zerks.
+1
or if you really are stuck on greasing the ones that are on the vehicle now... you could drill and tap and add grease zerks.
Don't worry about it until it comes time to replace them. The replacement
ball joints and tie rod ends will likely come with grease zerks.
+1
or if you really are stuck on greasing the ones that are on the vehicle now... you could drill and tap and add grease zerks.
If you puncture the seal to install grease, now there is a hole to let water in and grease out.
And the grease is siting on top of the bearing surfaces, where it does no good.
This is why no mfr ever uses this approach.
And the grease is siting on top of the bearing surfaces, where it does no good.
This is why no mfr ever uses this approach.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If you puncture the seal to install grease, now there is a hole to let water in and grease out.
And the grease is siting on top of the bearing surfaces, where it does no good.
This is why no mfr ever uses this approach.
^This.
I probably need to replace the ball joints on the Civic. Someone told me I should get aftermarket with the zerk fittings. I figure a sealed for life OE unit would work fine as well, though, or perhaps better?
If you puncture the seal to install grease, now there is a hole to let water in and grease out.
And the grease is siting on top of the bearing surfaces, where it does no good.
This is why no mfr ever uses this approach.
^This.
I probably need to replace the ball joints on the Civic. Someone told me I should get aftermarket with the zerk fittings. I figure a sealed for life OE unit would work fine as well, though, or perhaps better?
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Someone told me I should get aftermarket with the zerk fittings. I figure a sealed for life OE unit would work fine as well, though, or perhaps better?
I personally prefer ones with grease zerks. I feel that when the new grease pushes out the old, it also pushes out wear particles/contaminates which are in the old grease.
Someone told me I should get aftermarket with the zerk fittings. I figure a sealed for life OE unit would work fine as well, though, or perhaps better?
I personally prefer ones with grease zerks. I feel that when the new grease pushes out the old, it also pushes out wear particles/contaminates which are in the old grease.
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