Ball Joint Separation Tools

[JHZR2]

Hi,

Im looking to replace all my tie rods and maybe some upper control arms on my cars. What I need is to be able to separate the balljoints from what they are attached to.

I have a pickle fork, and Ive heard about the two-hammer approach. However there are puller devices which may also make the job simpler. Im not afraid to get some good tools if it will let me do jobs better.

So Im specifically looking at this type of unit:

But Ive seen fork sizes from 17mm to 27mm. Dont know what I need. Would like to minimize number of tools bought, but maximize utility across my cars.

Im not trying to pull ball joints out of where they are pressed into, Im just trying to pull the tapered threaded connection off of whatever it was screwed onto via locknut or castle nut. Hope that makes sense...

So how do I select the right one????

Thanks!

 

[Trav]

The OTC unit i posted a picture of in your other thread is probably the best.
The ones you have pictured work fine on tie rod ends and inverted ball joints (nut under the knuckle e.g. Ford F150)
but don't help much where a regular knuckle is used.

This set is inexpensive but great quality.It should cover almost any joint you will run into.
Pickle forks damage boots,fine if your changing the part but not friendly.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O

 

[JHZR2]

Thanks! Too bad OTC offshores everything. Is there an SK kit like that is US made?

Still, what is the deal with "fork size"? Is there any commonality? What size should I be looking for if servicing small to midsize cars from the last 30 yrs?

Thanks!

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Trav
The OTC unit i posted a picture of in your other thread is probably the best.


I re-reviewed the parts from the other thread. Yes, one of each of those types is what is in the factory service manual... What gets md is that the fork/opening/length differs quite a bit depending upon model/part. Reading through forums, and the part descriptions, there is some indication that the parts are more or less universal, and some indication that there are sizes associated with aspects of the design that may be important. I've seen no good answers to that or what works best all around. I'm happy to buy a kit like linked, but what's the deal? Are most of these pitman/tid rod joints the same size or within a small range of sizes? Willa few items enable service on most cars, or is the diversity enough that you really need a wide selection?

Thanks again!

 

[Trav]

The 2 forks i have are 15/16 and 1 1/8.
I don't know about SK,since they got taken over by Ideal i wonder if they aren't producing off shore also.
I have not seen a set like the one from OTC from them.

I bought an OTC ball joint press,the press and adapters are all stamped made in U.S.A. the plastic box was made in China.
I was told last year by an OTC rep that the ball joint remover was U.S. made.
Never had any problems with OTC/SPX stuff no matter how hard i worked them.

Edit: From what i understand the black and stinger tools from OTC are Chinese,their main product SPX/OTC line is also branded Kent Moore for OEM manufacturers,most are U.S. made.

 

[JHZR2]

Just talked with OTC, country of origin is Taiwan...

 

[Trav]

The smaller sized Hazet in the picture is a small opening and sees very little use here in the U.S. Its just for small joints.
The larger tool does 99% of the work i do.I have used it on everything from Toyota,MB,BMW to large Ford F350's with no problems.

 

[The_Jeff]

If you have a pickle fork or even an open end wrench try slipping that in over your boot and under the knuckle. See what sizes fit well.

A "too big" one would probably work unless there were some part of the knuckle that gets in the way.

Can you buy these on amazon? Read the reviews and see if everyone is talking about 3/4 ton trucks or regular cars? Do they make the things in 19mm? That's about what I'd get for your w123s, just based on a visual memory of the stuff down there on mine.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Trav
The smaller sized Hazet in the picture is a small opening and sees very little use here in the U.S. Its just for small joints.
The larger tool does 99% of the work i do.I have used it on everything from Toyota,MB,BMW to large Ford F350's with no problems.


When you say the smaller one, do you mean this:

That one, made by sir tools, is listed as 25mm, and for most all MB, VW, Audi, Porsche, etc. I guess 25mm would equate to your 15/16".

The Klann and BMW ones at the bottom are apparently 27mm.

Cant say I've seen a push type separator like this in 19mm. The two jaw type I've seen with different "mouth" openings, 17, 19mm, 3/4", etc.

Thanks all for helping me through my confusion on this!!!

 

[Trav]

This seems common these days.
I spoke with the rep about this and he said the 2 pig iron adapters and the box are China made.
The precision machined adapters came in a separate box with Made in U.S.A. on it.

So as can be seen in the pictures even if the box says Made in China it may not be the whole story.

 

[Trav]

No like the one on the left.It also has a 1 1/8-15/16 tapered jaw opening but is very shallow,it will not clear most knuckles.
Fine for small tie rod ends but the larger one fits that bill also.

 

[JHZR2]

So really one can't go too big unless there is some practical reason due to the car's specific set-up?

 

[oilboy123]

Made in the USA with Globally sourced parts? That's a good one.
So it's not made in the USA, it's assembled in the USA.

 

[Trav]

That pretty much sums it up.Large trucks or some speciality applications of course need larger/specific tools but that's a whole different game e.g. a pitman arm puller for Ford Expeditions and F150 is a one off tool.
That OTC set or one similar will do almost anything you are likely to run into.

The only reason i use OTC as my main example is quality and price they are a real good value for money even when worked hard.Sure you could go high end like Hazet that have a absolute pedigree but it wont perform any better and if I'm totally honest the OTC has a better finish and judging from the way i use them are just as durable.

 

[JHZR2]

Understood. I'd prefer to buy first-world versus third, but besides that the OTC kit seems quite good.

 

[Trav]

NO. It would have to say assembled in U.S.A. It says " made " in U.S.A. i had this clarified by OTC.
Some almost irrelevant components that just don't need to be machined or made to a high tolerance are imported.
The 2 pig iron adapters are just bulk iron spacers,no machining on the castings whatsoever.
Personally i could care less if they make the box in Timbuktu or even if it had a box.
The parts that must hold out or need a lot of precision i was told by more than one rep are made here.

 

[Trav]

I just saw your post.I believe the tools to be good even if they are.It seems they source from all over.Like you i would like first world stuff but if the quality is there i can live with it.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I just bought a OTC Silver Slapper slide hammer and the OTC bearing splitter set. I made several calls to OTC to make SURE that I was buying a "made in America" tool and they assured me that they were.

Both came in with "Made in the USA from globally sourced components". I was not very happy about that and WILL NOT be buying another OTC tool. Even if they are made here now (doubtful) any replacement tool will more than likely come out of China.

Having said that however, I have an OTC ball joint popper like the one on the right in trav's post. Works great and I hope it never breaks as mine is stamped "USA".

 

[JHZR2]

Well I got the OTC 6295 kit from amazon. Seems quite nice, bigger and heavier than I'd have thought.

The box wrapper says made in taiwan, which was what was claimed when I called OTC. Ive not seen any markings on any parts one way or another. Will send pictures tomorrow.

 

[Trav]

Let us know how the tools work and how you like them if you would.
I just bought OTC Stinger brake line flaring tools,the stinger line that i have seen were all "Made in China"
This one is Taiwan.No big deal but it seems stuff from Taiwan is better quality than China,there seems to be a lot of U.S. tool manufacturers making stuff there like a reamer i bought from KD,good quality but Taiwan made.

The flaring tool is a bit rough as i expected it would be on the non critical parts but the threads and dies were very well made.
It made nice uniform inverted flares and bubbles no problem at all,nice performance from a $20 tool.