I saw a car lifted up at a tire shop (outside) by a floor jack on each front area and a single floor jack on the diff. All 4 tires were off. It must have been some RW vehicle, maybe it was a pickup, I did not focus on that. Seems dangerous to me.
bad/stupid jacking of a car/pickup
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When I read your post headline I thought you where talking about "Google Hot Wheels come to life" it will be your first hit.
I've seen that before when the vehicle in question is a rust-bucket. The shop doesn't want liability for rust repair if their lift punches a hole somewhere due to the lift points being rusted out.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: eljefino
That'll work fine. Jack the pumpkin last to minimize torsional stress.
Tire shop probably had all their bays/ lifts tied up waiting for parts or whatever. So they got stuff done.
Yep, and really not very dangerous, so long as no one was working BENEATH the vehicle.
That'll work fine. Jack the pumpkin last to minimize torsional stress.
Tire shop probably had all their bays/ lifts tied up waiting for parts or whatever. So they got stuff done.
Yep, and really not very dangerous, so long as no one was working BENEATH the vehicle.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2026
F-body guys do it all the time. Lift at the center of the rear using the rear diff. Then put jack stands underneath to hold the car up.
^ Yup. That's a pretty accepted method on any solid axle vehicle. I can't do it to the rear of the Jeep though, as the rear diff housing is aluminum, and it's possible to bend the tubes in the housing if you jack it up that way (unless you've trussed the axle).
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
I've seen this often at busy tire shops, when all the bays are occupied.
It's similar to how I just lifted my 2012 Subaru Legacy for a tire rotation.
I lifted the front by the center/front lift point (chocked rear first of course), then put jack-stands under each front subframe side rail, then lowered it down on the stands.
Rolled the jack under the rear diff and lifted up the back. Now all 4 are off the ground.
The 4 rocker panel pinch-point jack points are ridiculously small and flimsy, and really only seem to be meant for the OEM jack on this car.
It's similar to how I just lifted my 2012 Subaru Legacy for a tire rotation.
I lifted the front by the center/front lift point (chocked rear first of course), then put jack-stands under each front subframe side rail, then lowered it down on the stands.
Rolled the jack under the rear diff and lifted up the back. Now all 4 are off the ground.
The 4 rocker panel pinch-point jack points are ridiculously small and flimsy, and really only seem to be meant for the OEM jack on this car.
Sure beats a drive up lift in a tire shop!
This can be perfectly OK for some cars.
This can be perfectly OK for some cars.
This is common practice on trucks with solid rear axles, but nowhere else.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2026
Originally Posted By: artificialist
This is common practice on trucks with solid rear axles, but nowhere else.
It is common place on anyting with a solid rear axle to include, but not limited to Panthers, Mustangs, F-bodies and list continues.
This is common practice on trucks with solid rear axles, but nowhere else.
It is common place on anyting with a solid rear axle to include, but not limited to Panthers, Mustangs, F-bodies and list continues.
Originally Posted By: Spazdog
Do that on a Mazdaspeed 6 and they're buying a new set of diff mounts. The stockers are notoriously weak.
Same with my car. Many independent rear suspensions are not going to like this! Even if there's no apparent damage it can still cause issues, what about if you have an alloy rear end that's not just made out of cheap iron?
Do that on a Mazdaspeed 6 and they're buying a new set of diff mounts. The stockers are notoriously weak.
Same with my car. Many independent rear suspensions are not going to like this! Even if there's no apparent damage it can still cause issues, what about if you have an alloy rear end that's not just made out of cheap iron?
Yeah, even when it's a straight axle in the back I wouldn't want to put a jack onder an aluminum one. So far I've only ever seen that on Mustangs set up for drag. The IRS setups are so much neater. These alloy rear axle cars usually end up getting jacked by the subframe connectors or the shock mounts with a bit of rubber pushing up at the pumpkin.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
... Many independent rear suspensions are not going to like this! Even if there's no apparent damage it can still cause issues, what about if you have an alloy rear end that's not just made out of cheap iron?
Yes, I wouldn't use this method on all of them.
The rear subframe and cast iron differential housings are pretty substantial assemblies on Subarus, especially the way the diff is mounted into the subframe.
It's very common practice in Suby world to use the rear diff as a jack point.
... Many independent rear suspensions are not going to like this! Even if there's no apparent damage it can still cause issues, what about if you have an alloy rear end that's not just made out of cheap iron?
Yes, I wouldn't use this method on all of them.
The rear subframe and cast iron differential housings are pretty substantial assemblies on Subarus, especially the way the diff is mounted into the subframe.
It's very common practice in Suby world to use the rear diff as a jack point.
Originally Posted By: JTK
The rear subframe and cast iron differential housings are pretty substantial assemblies on Subarus, especially the way the diff is mounted into the subframe.
It's very common practice in Suby world to use the rear diff as a jack point.
The rear diff is the factory recommended jack point on Subarus. It's in the Service Manual. The diff mount bushings squish when you jack them up, but it doesn't cause any problems - they go right back to normal when you let it down.
Subaru also put a nice plate in the center of the front subframe for jacking the other end. Both jack points are handy for getting the whole car up in the air and onto 4 jack stands.
The rear subframe and cast iron differential housings are pretty substantial assemblies on Subarus, especially the way the diff is mounted into the subframe.
It's very common practice in Suby world to use the rear diff as a jack point.
The rear diff is the factory recommended jack point on Subarus. It's in the Service Manual. The diff mount bushings squish when you jack them up, but it doesn't cause any problems - they go right back to normal when you let it down.
Subaru also put a nice plate in the center of the front subframe for jacking the other end. Both jack points are handy for getting the whole car up in the air and onto 4 jack stands.
Great for you smaller lightweight car owners. My car ain't no Subaru!
Every carmaker supplies a diagram of jacking points. And it can vary wildly by make.
Every carmaker supplies a diagram of jacking points. And it can vary wildly by make.
I seen a newbie at a shop lift an FJ cruiser by the bodies pinch weld 3 feet off the ground for a tire rotation.....
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