Bad Computer Signs?

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To do a dry compression test. Unplug the coil electrical connector or the fuel pump fuse. You don't really have to do both but if you don't have much experience with working on cars you might want to for safeties sake.

Check compression starting with #1 and working your way down the line. Write your readings down! Don't try to remember them in your head.

Install the gauge on the cylinder you are testing. Open the throttle and crank the engine 5 times (you will hear the sound of the engine change as it comes up on the compression stroke) and record the reading. Move onto the next cylinder.

The numbers should be within 10% of each other. Normal compression readings on an engine from that era will be about 130 psi to 180 psi. The absolute value of the number is insignificant, you are only looking for the cylinders being close to each other so don't freak out if they are out of that range. If one cylinder is lower than the rest, squirt a tablespoon of oil into that cylinder through the spark plug hole and rerun the test. If the reading comes up to the level of the other three then you know it is the compression rings that are at fault. If it does not come up then you know the problem somewhere else.

Post your readings when you have them and I can help further from there. Sorry it took a while for me to respond, i've been busy.
 
Hey Scott.
Thanks for responding.
I checked the spark last night by pulling th eplugs out 1 by 1 over the oil crank case and watching it spark with the motor running. Did the same with th plugs removed but inserted in the wire end over the crank case and got spark on all four cylinder for both the plugs and wires. I think it is safe to say that the: coil pack, wires, and plugs are not at fault.
Tonight I picked up a compression tester.
I removed the spark plugs and disable the coil pack.
I started with cylinder 1 and worked my way over to 2,3 & 4.
All cylinders have 180 PSI give or take. (2 of them have like 181 and other two have 180) None of them are low or different from each other.
I have replaced the following:
plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors, fuel rail, fuel rail wiring harness, EGR Valve, throttle position sensor.
I looked over the following:
Followed the wiring harness through the motor checked for burn or tears and their are none. Made sure everything was plugged in and snug. Then I proceeded to check all the grounds to make sure they were clean and tight.
What else is there left to do?
What other parts can I check?
Any ideas or should I just go to a shop?
Still think it cant be the computer?
When I scan for codes with a reader I get P0304 and Pending P0304 code. I deleted and it returns. If I disconnect the computer for a little bit and reattach it I dont get a check engine light or MIL light for like 3 days and if I plug the code reader in during those 3 days just for kicks it says 0 codes 0 errors.
What gives?
Good spark.
180 PSI in all cylinders.
Anything you can do to help further is greatly appreciated.
Hope to hear from you.
 
Made the repair and solved the issue, thanks everyone.
Turned out to be a leaky intake manifold gasket.
 
Originally Posted By: JMac101
Made the repair and solved the issue, thanks everyone.
Turned out to be a leaky intake manifold gasket.


Glad to hear it. What led you to replace the gasket? Just trial and error or did something tip you off?
 
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