Autozone socal no longer renting scan gauges

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: jmsjags


the code that the scanner gives you tells you exactly what's wrong. just hop online for 5 minutes and do a google search for the code. then fix yourself.

I'm going to have to disagree with you here(like everybody else).Sometimes it is a bad sensor but not always.

My moms car throws a P0101 code all the time.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0101

Guess what? A brand new $180 map sensor did not fix the problem. Neither did a $20 used one from the junkyard.

So we know that something is wrong with what the map sensor is telling the computer but what is it? It's not the map sensor it's self.

How about a misfire code? Is it a plug? Wire? Coil?, Injector? Wiring to the injector? Broken valvespring? Loose valve guide? Missing or damaged valve stem seal letting oil foul that plug? Theres no way of knowing with out the proper diagnostics.

 

[brianl703]

Bah, the old cars didn't have any OBD-II diagnostics and if you wanted to figure out what was wrong you had to break out the multimeter and do some actual testing.

 

[finalyzd]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
Bah, the old cars didn't have any OBD-II diagnostics and if you wanted to figure out what was wrong you had to break out the multimeter and do some actual testing.


That's what my boss says all the time hahahahaha.

 

[brianl703]

The other day I replaced the OBD-II socket in my '97 Crown Vic. It was worn out! No idea of the service history of this car (it was an impound), but I think an OBD-II socket has to be used quite a few times to get as loose as this one was. I keep a Scangauge plugged into it and with the old socket the Scangauge would sometimes power off. No problem since I replaced it.

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: finalyzd


That little obd scanner tells you exactly what's wrong? Are you serious? (That code just gives you a place to start looking). Then tell my why the tps sensor is testing good? But the scanner is saying a tps code? So its that right? Like I said I wish I could plug in a little scanner and it give me the information so I can just replace or fix what's needed. Somes times you will get lucky. and figure it out easy which when we do if its a small hose causing a vaccum leak no charge. Just five bucks for a new hose. You should become a master diagnostic technician, you and your 40 dollar obd scanner paired with google access can make you a lot! P.s its most likely the computer on the hyundai trying to verify still


You have a point, to a point. No code reader will give an exact reading of the problem and solution. If they did, a lot of mechanics would be out of work and we all know that's not the case.

Most of the time a code, especially multiple codes, are a sign there's a problem somewhere and the code(s) provides a good diagnostic tech with some info on where to begin the trouble shooting process and what can be ruled out. They don't pinpoint the exact source of the problem.

There is the odd instance where a code is thrown out of the blue, where nothing is mechanically wrong, as there are no symptoms present, and when the CEL is reset it doesn't return. There an OBD-II scanner combined with some basic knowledge, knowledge of your car, and a copy of its repair manual can go a long way. If nothing else, you can figure out if its one of those 'one of things' that can occur, or a problem that is something within your own ability to troubleshoot and fix, or something outside the scope of your abilities and requiring the service of a pro.

I wouldn't equate it to any kind of substitute for an experienced diagnostic tech, but it has its uses when used properly for what it is.

-Spyder

 

[brianl703]

My mechanic will, if a customer brings in a car with a CEL on, reset it and tell them to come back if it comes back on. The reason being that he wants to be sure that it's not just a one-time glitch. He doesn't charge to reset the light either.

 

[Vikas]

As Sypder said, on many diagnostic flow-chart published by the manufacturer of the vehicle often says "clear the code and drive the vehicle". If the code does not come back, great! But now you just handed $120 to the shop for 1 minute of work :-( If your mechanic does not charge you for initial screening, you have found the keep-him-for-the-life mechanic!

The code reader should be used as a preliminary analysis with the help of google and forums. It is NOT a substitute for a good mechanic which are found at your neighborhood shops *and* on the net too.

By the way if you can not afford to buy this

for princely sum of "Price: $27.95 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping from Amazon"; you need to give up driving I am still amazed that there are intelligent folks visiting these type of forums (means they have passing interest in car maintenance) still do not own a code reader. Skip lunch for couple of days if you have to ...

- Vikas

P.S. I own this (and half a dozen more of other scanners This works fine on my Honda and Toyota. On Nissan, it had trouble getting some of the codes. Your mileage may vary but since this is from Amazon with free shipping, if it does not work, return it if it does not work for you.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: jmsjags
the code that the scanner gives you tells you exactly what's wrong. just hop online for 5 minutes and do a google search for the code. then fix yourself.


It doesn't tell you "exactly what's wrong". It tells you "exactly what the computer is reporting". There may be a clear repair path for some codes (like an IAT sensor), but there may be a more complex repair path for others (like certain misfire codes, etc). Sometimes, the symptom that the computer reports is part of a larger problem.

 

[ron917]

Originally Posted By: jmsjags

the code that the scanner gives you tells you exactly what's wrong. just hop online for 5 minutes and do a google search for the code. then fix yourself.



The codes can give you an indication of where you should start looking for a problem, but often do not indicate the root cause of the problem.

Here's a recent example: The '97 Honda was acting funny. The engine was surging at idle. The battery wasn't charging, but the alternator light wasn't on. The CEL was on, and there were codes for the Electronic Load Sensor, Heater Circuits for both Oxygen Sensors, and one of the Evap System solenoid valves.

Going by your logic, I should have spent several hundred dollars replacing all of those parts just because the computer said they were bad. And the problem still wouldn't have been fixed.

Care to take a guess at the real problem? It took me several hours to find the root cause, but I didn't have to buy any parts to fix it.

A quick check of the fuses found a blown one. The wiring diagram showed that it controlled the alternator field winding, the charging circuit, all of the stuff that threw CEL codes, plus a few more things that should have thrown codes but there's probably a limit in the ECU.

The codes didn't tell me that a fuse had blown. They also didn't tell me why the replacement fuse blew.

After spending some quality time with my ohm meter, I found a wiring harness hidden under the intake manifold was rubbing on a bracket. The insulation on a single wire had worn through and it shorted to ground. The codes didn't tell me that, either. Once I found the wire, some electrical tape and a piece of wire loom (and another fuse) fixed it for good.

 

[Mr Nice]

ron917,

Don't forget to clean the IACV on your Civic as they tend to get clogged with grime.

 

[mechtech2]

O2 sensor codes are the ones most often misdiagnosed.
It may or may not be the actual sensor, but that is what is usually changed.
The O2 sensor may be doing it's job perfectly, and there is a rich/lean condition that needs fixing.
But it comes up as an O2 code, so that must be the problem!

 

[TMoto]

When I had my '06 Altima it threw a code for the crankshaft position sensor. Went to AZ and a counterperson came out and read the code for free, however he would not clear the code himself and asked me to push the button to clear the code. He mentioned something about it causing issues in some vehicles and they weren't going to be responsible for any problems.

FWIW, I do most of my own work, but I do have a mechanic when needed, and he's worth every penny. I was referred to him by a friend, and I have referred many to him. I once sent a co-worker to him about eight years ago who had a newer Nissan pickup with some kind of electrical/electronic problem, of which I don't remember exactly what. He spent quite a bit of time diagnosing the issue, determined it was something he should go to the dealer about, and didn't charge him. He gained another customer for his honesty and helpfulness.

 

[daves66nova]

Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
AZ and AAP will scan the codes for you for free. At least around here, in northern Illinois. No renting required. Just ask the PIMPLE-POPPER at the counter to scan the code for you. Takes 3 minutes, fast and easy.
edited

 

[daves66nova]

Ok,here's one for some of you.95 Camry. I have had my 2nd O2 sensor disconnected now for 9 months and no c.e.l.. The cel has went off for other minor stuff that I've been able to fix,so i know the ecm works.The car runs excellent and mileage is good.Why doesn't it go off?

 

[jcwit]

Little bulbs burned out?

 

[sciphi]

The ScanGauge in my Buick and the little pocket code-reader from HF are great shade-tree diagnostic tools. They tell me the codes, I look them up, and decide if it's something to tackle myself or take it to the mechanic.

Certain codes I'll take to the mechanic right off. If it's anything to do with emissions, it's going into the shop.

I have tackled lots of stuff thanks to those code readers. They've also made my mechanic some money coming in for something I don't want to/can't tackle myself.

 

[daves66nova]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
Little bulbs burned out?
no, it does come on when minor things go outta whack.

 

[Vikas]

95 model, OBD-II was not mandated. It is possible that Toyota implementation for that year did not check for the rear cat sensor readings. If so, you will never get the infamous P0420! OR Toyota programmers were stupid and if they did not get reading from the rear cat sensor they did not bother to throw up P0420.

- Vikas