AutoRX or Lube Control or something else?

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some more slop which i dug out of the engine with a screwdriver:

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just some
 
Wow, I am doing an ARX treatment on my 95 525i BMW. I have checked my filter and they weralmost clean after 30,000 to 5,500 miles on synthetic. Now i am wondering if a ARX treatment was even needed.
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Don't forget to pull and clean the oil pan too.
And, remember that all other imaginable maintenance items/fluids/filters/belts/adjustments/... need to be taken care of.
 
Although I orginally planned to, I don't think I'll be taking the oil pan off, as it is buried behind many other parts which need removed, which I don't think I'm ready to be messing around with yet. I realize if its this bad up top it must be horrendous down there. I guess I'm just going to hope the AutoRX takes care of it..
 
If it was my car.... I'd start with FP60 right now.

I'd run Chevron Delo 400 with LC20 through it for 100 miles and change the oil filter at 100 miles, and then change oil and filter at 200 miles.


Then, I'd do the ARX treatment with whichever Dino oil you like for the 1500 miles... but maybe change the oil filter every 500 miles.

Then do the 2000 mile rinse with dino oil and oil filter changes every 500 miles.

Then I'd run another ARX treatment.

And run LC20 in future oil changes..and FP60 in every tank.


That is a dirty engine. Hopefully you can figure out what caused this problem... neglect or a mechanical problem.

Maybe you'll get lucky and save this one with some bitog tlc.

[ October 26, 2005, 10:21 PM: Message edited by: Thatwouldbegreat ]
 
I wouldn't reley on the look of the oil filter solely as an indicator that sludging is occuring. If deposits are attaching in the motor they will never make it to the oil filter. Chicken and the egg.
 
I would run ARX from the get go. Start with fresh dino of your choice and a new filter. I would run this first cleaning phase only 500-1000 miles. Dump, new filter and run a dino rinse for 2000 miles. Rebatch and start the normal 1500 mile clean cycle, followed by the second rinse.

I do believe that this motor is a three application case. There are instructions on the auto-rx.com web site for heavily sludged motors, however I think this would fit into a new catagory of the Heavier than Heavily sludged motor group.

I do think that ARx is the way to go. Slow cleaning and liquification properties of ARX is the best bet.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rich21:
I wouldn't reley on the look of the oil filter solely as an indicator that sludging is occuring. If deposits are attaching in the motor they will never make it to the oil filter. Chicken and the egg.

???? From the pictures of both the oil filter and the internals, I'd say there's plenty of sludge to go around in this engine, both for the filter and everywhere else.

I'd call Frank Miller, the guy behind ARX. I've spoken with him, and he's willing to discuss the product with you. He seems quite well informed and willing to help. Let him look at these extreme and disgusting photos and see what he recommends.

You save this one, and you'll be entitled to permanent, BITOG Hall-of-Fame status. Good luck!!!
cheers.gif
 
Yea I'm not sure why this Frank hasn't responded here yet? Got to be one of the worst cases he's seen. I got the valve cover back on and been driving for the last 2 days. Since I turned it back on It's been making bad sounds. It sounds louder and theres a constant up-and-down type beating sound. At idle and when throttling. Its also backfiring now. I dont know if the AutoRX is causing it to act up or what. I've read from some people here some different sounds occurred during the autorx cycles. Maybe its caused this muck to start moving around and the motor is going into shock or something. I dont know what to do.
 
check that filter, if you have quite a few miles into the clean phase, and things are really moving along, it would be a good idea to start a rinse phase early, then another arx clean phase after that.

When removing a LOT of sludge, the oil is going to degrade quickly- in these circumstances of heavily sludged engines, I think short intervals thoughout the cleaning/rinsing cycles is a good way to play it safe.

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that's a pic of my recently purchased 2001 suzuki swift.. only 53k on it when I bought it... Has Mobil 1 EP in there now, (only been driven about 2k on the EP).... I'm going to be ARXing this engine real soon.... I'll be taking extreme caution however... keeping an eye on filter contamination rate.
 
quote:

Originally posted by prophecy:
Yea I'm not sure why this Frank hasn't responded here yet? Got to be one of the worst cases he's seen. I got the valve cover back on and been driving for the last 2 days. Since I turned it back on It's been making bad sounds. It sounds louder and theres a constant up-and-down type beating sound. At idle and when throttling. Its also backfiring now. I dont know if the AutoRX is causing it to act up or what. I've read from some people here some different sounds occurred during the autorx cycles. Maybe its caused this muck to start moving around and the motor is going into shock or something. I dont know what to do.

Pick up the phone and give him a call. The number is on the ARX web site. I've done this myself and got some good info from him. He can answer your questions.
 
Prophecy, couple of observations. Auto-RX will help you here. If you had left this engine to its original condition it would have cratered soon anyway.

You have one of the most severe sludge obstructing problems I have seen. The mechanic in me in screaming to dissassemble and manually clean, the analyst is crying... Dirt, cheap overused oils, lack of maintenance, possible coolant ingress, wow what has this engine NOT been exposed to?!

Key points and areas to pay attention to.

1) auto-rx can't work if oil flow is obstructed or interupted. Mechanically clean whatever you can and have access to. DONOT drop any goo into a return port.

2) use a thinner oil preferably non syn 5w30 or 10w30. The Delo 400 15w40 is too thick for this engine design attempting to disperse that trash.Even a HDD 20w20 would work well here for cleaning and rinse phases.

For all SEE NEW MORE EASILY UNDERSTOOD COLOR CODED INSTRUCTIONS ON THE AUTO-RX WEBSITE.

3) Keep the oil filter fresh, change it as often as required. In this SPECIAL case no longer than 500 miles until cleanliness returns to normal.

4) be patient as the chemistry can protect against damage but not if you overload or slow oil flow, AUTO-RX rides in host oil, if that oil flow is interupted RX cannot be expected to clean and protect, since it can't get to problem areas.

5)Keep a 3 ounce maintenance dosage load of RX in the host oil even in rinse phase and AS LONG AS IS NEEDED UNTIL cleanliness is returned to normal levels. Retreat/clean with RX as needed.

Keep us posted.

FYI I have had trouble getting hold of Frank too and found out that cancer and chemo treatment is the reason. He will respond.

Terry

[ November 01, 2005, 08:50 AM: Message edited by: Terry ]
 
Auto-Rx can't work if oil flow is obstructed or interupted. change oil filter every 500 miles on this engine during your entire Auto-Rx Application.
Use nothing except "Dino" Oil.
 
You know what? I think you'll be just fine with this engine as long as you listen to Terry and Frank and their suggestions. Your compression is not perfect, but it's not bad considering the state of things, and it's reasonably even across the cylinders.

It's a shame this car was treated this badly, but I think it'll probably run well for you once it's cleaned out.
 
Well I drove almost 200 miles after checking the coolant reservoir for any abnormalities.. come to find this.

<img src="http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/4884/coolant1qv.jpg>
 
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