Last emissions test, I did an auto-rx run on my 91 318i, for the sake of doing it (engine appeared clean, but I gave it a shot). Emissions were clean, same as initial test after I got the car, and NOx was high, same as my intiial test.
This time, I used LC and FP, which I hadnt heard of the last time I had my dyno emissions test. Emissions results were exactly the same, including nigh NOx.
All tests performed between 72k and 92k miles, over 3 years.
Now, surely someone wanting to defend their product will claim that I have some 'major mechanical issue' with my engine, but I do not; MPG s great, power is great, compression is excellent, CO, HC are low, etc. I dont spare any expense in maintenance of my vehicles.
So, what Im saying, is that if you have some issue, sludge buildup, deposits, poor valve seating/sealing, etc., then a number of treatments can help it, and ought to be completed prior to your test. If you have a lazy O2 sensor or dying cat converter, it needs to be replaced; chances are that its past its useful life for one reason or another.
In the world of catalysis, there is rarely an easy 'miracle cure' to get the conversion efficiency increased. In the world of combustion, IMO, some relatively major changes (timing, bulk fuel characteristics change, major deposit removal, major compression improvement, etc.) need to be made to make a big difference. In a healthy engine, likely >75% of reasonably maintained vechiles, there will likely be no real difference.
So, overall, id say that if your engine was in reasonably good operating shape, MPG around spec, etc., itll make no real difference emisions wise wen you add the additive.
If I were you, Id want to run the cleaner through before I dumped my old oil, just in case some made its way into the oil, or transferred some cleaned junk into the oil, so that the oil in my engine after change would be as clean as possible for as long as possible.
JMH