I adjusted my rear bands on my 42RE today, and everything seems better. But I just wanted to make sure I did everything right! I have rebuilt manual transmissions before but this is my first time messing with an auto, other than fluid/filter, seals and convertor. The instructions say to back off the lockout nut 4 turns, then torque the adjuster bolt to 72 lb/in back off 4 turns, and re-tighten the lockout nut. I backed off the lockout nut and when torquing the adjuster bolt the lockout nut reached the band lever before I got too the spec'd torque so I loosened the lockout nut further. Should I have relied on the the lockout nut to torque the adjuster bolt or did I do it right? What would be some symptoms of over or under torqued bands? Also is it o.k. to just adjust the rear or should the front and rear be done together?
Automatic trans band adj question.
- Thread starter Taylor
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Im curious of the replies.. I need to adjust my 47RE (Dodge 2500/Cummins) and was trying to figure out if I wanted to tackle it myself or let a shopt do it..
Brian
Brian
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That's how I would have done it. The pre-load needs to be set without the lock nut bottomed out. You should be able to back off the lock nut all the way off the stud if you can thread it back up without moving the adjustment. I know I have instructions that have no mention of the lock nut ...admittedly on warmed over 70's transmissions.
I just checked. My FSM has the same 72"# figure for my 30RH (jeep) ...same type of "back off Xy turns" ..no mention of the lock nut.
I just checked. My FSM has the same 72"# figure for my 30RH (jeep) ...same type of "back off Xy turns" ..no mention of the lock nut.
I always forget I have a FSM. My FSM is a little different than the Haynes manual. Go Figure! Tighten to 72"# and back off 2 turns, whereas the haynes says to back off 4 turns. I think I trust the FSM?!? Well im going to re-adjust it today, because I need to do a full fluid flush anyways.
So I re-adjusted the rear bands, did a full fluid flush, and adjusted the front bands. Well I was leaving the shop coming back home, and I was coasting down a hill and my tires act like the want to lock up, and actually did for a split second. I turned around went back to the shop checked fluid level and loosened the detent cable. Went out for another spin, everything seems fine so far. Was it just an air pocket from the flush, or were the torque specs in the haynes right? When comparing the haynes to the FSM the FSM has the same specs as the 46RE & 46RH, mine is the 42RE. The FSM says its for the 42RE & 44RE?????????? I am supposed to drive this vehicle 300 mi roundtrip in the morning!!!!
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Get the locknut out of the way when torquing the adjuster.
Give her time to break in , and readjust what you can.
Give her time to break in , and readjust what you can.
Remove it is what I do. Then I smear RTV on the nut/threads so it does not seep fluid.
I normally do both bands at the same time since the pan is off.
I normally do both bands at the same time since the pan is off.
Thanx for all the input guys. Whatever it was it seems to have cleared itself up. Guess maybe there was a breakin period. My front band adjustment is on the outside of the transmission. Between this and ARX feels like a completely different transmission.
It is a rebuilt this trans correct?
You could run shorter. I put Amsoil in my Dads rebuilt auto trans with a Magnifine filter and ran it to 80K miles. The pan was spotless.
Same fluid from 0-80K miles.
You could run shorter. I put Amsoil in my Dads rebuilt auto trans with a Magnifine filter and ran it to 80K miles. The pan was spotless.
Same fluid from 0-80K miles.
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