Auto-RX

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Fuel injected engines like yours don't have a choke, it is just a fast idle solenoid that idles the engine slightly faster when cold.
Its just to speed up engine warmup and prevent stalling.
 
Yeah its not really a choke, hence why I called it "autochoke" but the highrev.

So basicly we have the same driving habits, I do what you say you do. OLM is oil life meter, I dunno if your car has it but mine does.

The motor on my civic is small but very advanced in comparison to those kind of v8's (
maybe it isnt im not trying to have a [censored] contest) and in those driving conditiions I get a 30% oil life remaining read out on my oil with 3k miles. Thats with a synthetic blend (
I dunno if its group 1 2 or 3 or 4, blend what it is ). Honda recommend changing it out once it hit 15%.

So basicly what Im saying is, the oil in your motor may be breaking down sooner than you think it is based on your driving habits. Shorter OCIs may be a good thing for you to start doing to keep the motor running better after you are done with this Auto RX run. My motor sounds like a sword fight when I start it 5am in the morning after sitting all night once my OLM get around 50% and Ill swear it does NOT when the oil is newer.

This 2010 civic I have only for 7 months and its only on its second batch of oil. But I had a 2008 civic coupe that I bought new and owned for 2 years and 22k miles. I changed ff out at 2400 miles, and used honda oil untill 5 k. Then mobil1 synth afterward and changed out every 4k. That motor never sounded like a sword fight, and just purred always. Unlike this motor which Im following oem guidelines (due to being a lease)
 
Strate...you're good. So don't take it all wrong. I see your efforts to help me.

But, back to my problem, is it the sensor, the pump, the bypass or is it wear in the mains. As always you start to diagnose the easiest and cheapest way. So that means the sensor. I'll do that first.

Then I'm putting in a Fleetgaurd full flow filter at 1200 miles. We'll see how that affects the oil flow. Then, if there is no improvement, I'll wait until the 2nd clean phase and assess.

I see RVS in my path here. It may be wrong...then again it may be right. After that (if it doesn't work) the pan and oil pump will be removed and the pump replaced.

Time will tell.
 
How much oil pressure have you lost?
20 + pounds at hot idle is considered good for a small block chevy engine. It may just be normal wear, any engine with 100k + miles is going to hold less pressure than a new engine.
Have valve covers been off or can you see through the oil fill cap as to the amount of grime in the engine?
I'm not saying there is anything wrong with what you are doing, It sounds like the Auto RX has done some good at stopping your seal leaks. I am running some now in my 93 Chevy with a 305, that the previous owner neglected and is badly sludged.
I also installed a high volume oil pump last year when I replaced the timing chain.
My only thought is if you only lost a few lbs of oil pressure over 100k, you may be worrying over nothing.
Different oil weights and brands will also cause your pressure to vary, along with temperature changes.

I would continue the Auto Rx treatments, it sounds like it is doing some good reguardless.
 
Thanks Cronk, good information.

I'd say I've lost 20psi at hot idle. It used to sit at 40psi even at idle. So, to me, I've lost half of my oil pressure (at idle ONLY).

I don't know, maybe I should expect this. But I still think something is wrong. I cared for it too well to just lose oil pressure this way. I don't know, maybe I didn't.

I know every engine is different. They're like girls. Still....
 
I can understand your concern. 20 psi hot idle oil pressure is very good. Flow is what keeps an engine going, dino oil usually gives higher pressure than synthetic oil. If you are looking for a good inexpensive additive to build oil pressure up give Schaeffers #132 a try. It has a good following here and is certainly worth a try. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: Tharder
Thanks Cronk, good information.

I'd say I've lost 20psi at hot idle. It used to sit at 40psi even at idle. So, to me, I've lost half of my oil pressure (at idle ONLY).

I don't know, maybe I should expect this. But I still think something is wrong. I cared for it too well to just lose oil pressure this way. I don't know, maybe I didn't.

I know every engine is different. They're like girls. Still....



I see...a 20 psi loss would give me some concern.
Did this happen over a short period of time? or is that over the life of the truck?
Did you ever have the oil pressure sensor installed?
 
It's dropped over the last 2 years. Just a little at a time. It all seemed to start when the waterpump failed. It did overheat but it never went into the Red. I shut it down.

Nonetheless, ever since it was repaired (I took it into the shop, it was the dead of winter) it's been losing idle pressure.

Thanks for the help you guys. One thing really has me baffled, and that's the pressure at all other speeds. It's just excellent. Why would that be the case? If there was something wrong with the pump would it not show up at all engine speeds?

No, I've not changed the sending unit yet. I'm going to try to find time today. I'll change the filter today as well. I'm over 1000 miles on this one for the 1st cleaning phase (PureONE). The oil still looks excellent so, if there is much cleaning happening that filter has got to be getting full.

I'm going to an oversized Fleetguard. I'm interested to see if the flow characteristics change.

Any other ideas?

Thanks Derma and Cronk.
 
Were you running the same oil when the pressure was higher?
Just wondering if there are any other variables.
As Demarpaint said above sometimes switching to a thinner 5w synthetic will cause less oil pressure than a 10w dino (or syn for that matter).

Small block chevys of that vintage run a gear type oil pump that could be worn out, but I would think that would affect your pressure at higher speeds as well.
You could switch to a high volume oil pump(not high pressure!), they have larger gears and will pump a larger volume of oil that should build more pressure up to relief pressure (usually around 75 psi for a chevy small block).
I don't know if I would go that far just yet.

I would try running a 15w40 Heavy duty oil like Rotella for your next Auto RX cycle. It has good cleaning ability and should keep alot of the crud the Auto rx loosens up in suspension until it can be filtered out. The thicker base stocks should give you better pressure at idle as well.
 
Originally Posted By: Tharder
It's dropped over the last 2 years. Just a little at a time. It all seemed to start when the waterpump failed. It did overheat but it never went into the Red. I shut it down.

Nonetheless, ever since it was repaired (I took it into the shop, it was the dead of winter) it's been losing idle pressure.

Thanks for the help you guys. One thing really has me baffled, and that's the pressure at all other speeds. It's just excellent. Why would that be the case? If there was something wrong with the pump would it not show up at all engine speeds?

No, I've not changed the sending unit yet. I'm going to try to find time today. I'll change the filter today as well. I'm over 1000 miles on this one for the 1st cleaning phase (PureONE). The oil still looks excellent so, if there is much cleaning happening that filter has got to be getting full.

I'm going to an oversized Fleetguard. I'm interested to see if the flow characteristics change.

Any other ideas?

Thanks Derma and Cronk.



If you have the oil sending unit out for replacement, which BTW is a good idea I would verify pressure with a good mechanical OP gauge. If the pressure is good, use the old sending unit until you complete the A-Rx treatment, you could free up some junk and have issues with the new sending unit. Odds are slim, but it could happen.

Don't drive yourself nuts changing oil filters during the A-Rx treatment, I wasted a few good filters thinking they were clogged up when in reality they were no different than any other filter I took off my engine. You can remove and reinstall the filter if it doesn't feel heavy and loaded up. Some people say you shouldn't remove and reinstall filters, you can especially if the filter isn't too loaded up with junk. Just be sure to check for leaks if you decide to remove a filter to check it. Most of A-Rx results come during the rinse phase I was told, that's when you should keep an eye on the filters.
 
Maybe I'm just being impatient. Maybe I should wait and let the ARX do it's thing. I'm not even half way through the clean phase.

I leave for fishing opener today. It's a 300 mile round trip. I think I'll just let things ride for now.

I'll check back with you guys next week.

Thanks
 
You paid for it, give it a shot, be patient. A 300 mile trip is perfect! Good luck fishing!
 
I let it go 8k in mine. Changed the oil, and will let it go another 8k for a rinse.

You're going to drive yourself batty obsessing over it, Tharder.

Disclaimer: I'm not using it because I think I have a problem. I'm using it because I want to.
 
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Time for an update. Had a good fishing trip. Thanks for the well wishes. Happy wife...she loves Walleye.

Okay, now at 1600 miles on ARX. Changed the filter today. Went from a PureOne to a Fleetguard oversize. Topped it off with 1 1/2 quarts of Rotella T6 (what I had on hand). Went through a little over 1/2 quart in 1600 miles (Walmart dino).

Old filter was oozing a very black oil with a lot of lighter brown streaks of something (I'm guessing dissolved sludge). I'm letting it drain to see what comes out of it.

Interesting though, the oil itself (on the dipstick) is pretty clean. A little darker than amber colored.

New Fleetguard filter instantly increased the oil pressure. Cold it's running over 60psi. Hot, in gear idle, has increased to 25psi (from 20).

As others have reported, there have been times it makes some strange noises (startup) but that all stopped and now runs very smooth and quiet. No noises for about 2 weeks. All leaks have completely stopped. That's been the case for about 3 weeks now.

Now for the final run of clensing. As others have suggested, I'm going to run it longer than 3k. Maybe 5k. I'm concerned about dilluting it. Should I add more ARX? I'd rather be conservative and get to the rinse stage. Then...I'll start all over again. The second run will be even longer.

I have an idea I would like your opinions on;

After the rinse stage I'm considering running Kreen for the last 3-500 miles of the rinse stage. A really good cleaning and then start over again. Or, is it possible I'll interrupt what ARX is doing for two full cycles?

They're two totally different types of cleaners. Might I clean out all the following benefits of ARX? I know it keeps cleaning for a long time.

Thoughts?

By the way, thanks Gary for the advice on the Fleetguard filter. I think they're going to improve my results. I know they're not as fine but they add quite a bit to my total sump volume. I think that alone is a VERY good.

I'm waiting to add the NTZ bypass filter. I'm all set to go when I'm done with the ARX treatment.

Any other suggestions?
 
Originally Posted By: Tharder
Should I add more ARX?


NO

Originally Posted By: Tharder

After the rinse stage I'm considering running Kreen for the last 3-500 miles of the rinse stage


If you do that then how will you know what arx did and what Kreen did.
 
Well, that's true...BUT...all of it's a guess, don't you think?

I mean, if I'm not going to disassemble things how will I know that anything REALLY worked? If I did take it all apart I'd just replace stuff...right? I mean, really, parts are usually not a big deal once you've done all the work.

I guess the way I look at it is this; using all of your experience, the collective here, what is the most effective approach to cleaning your engine?

Then, once putting that acquired knowledge (from all of you) to work, how do you maintain it the best you can?

In other words, if we could seal up our engines and put a port in the oil filler tube and fill it completely with kerosene (or Simple Green or XX product), then, the next morning drain every spec of dirt, carbon and contamination from our engines. Then a fresh fill of excellent oil. Wouldn't that be great? I mean a spraklingly clean engine!

Okay, we can't do that...then what? That's what I'm working on...then what.

There was a day I ENJOYED being under the hood. I don't anymore. Dirty, greasy and some of it almost impossible (like Control Arm Bushings...FUN!). I've done every single aspect of car repair except transmissions and I just think its all dirty now.

By the same token we all know that this "junk" is building up in our engines. The number one contaminant is air. Filters are only so good and they really can't be too good, or there would be no air. Number two, combustion byproducts. Number three oil byproducts from catching it all. All to be collected by a tiny oil filter totally incapable of doing the job.

Talk about planned obsolecence.

Then what?

The truth is that there should not be a car, truck, van, or tactor on the road without a bypass system.

Okay, now we're how many years into this that we really learn the micro particle part of this equation. Some learned it earlier. Some, like Cummins, are expert. I just learned of it all recently. It makes me sick how much waste I've created from lack of knowledge. Had I just known, I'd have put a new system on every single vehicle I've bought.

The truth is that I didn't know. Now I know at 117k there is damage in my engine and I don't want to have to replace this vehicle. Let's face it, cars are losers! What's worse is that I now know I created all that damage.

So, we're back to the same question...now what?

I don't mean to be simplistic or contradictory in any way, I just want to stop the wear now, clean it up and find a better way to move forward. Clearly the better way is through quality Bypass.

BUT, until it's cleaned up...it's still dirty. How do we safely clean it up without taking it all apart?

Sorry, I don't mean to question, I just want it clean and to find the next step in stopping the bleeding that vehicles are. I think there is a way. I hope...
 
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Originally Posted By: Tharder

I guess the way I look at it is this; using all of your experience, the collective here, what is the most effective approach to cleaning your engine?


Since this is an auto-rx thread, I will not mention any other oil additives that clean engines, I will say that you will find your answer by going back and reading all of the threads in the oil additive section.

It does seem like you have thrown in some other oil additives to clean up your engine before auto-rx and after you are done with arx you want to try Kreen, for any oil additive to work you need to give it time and many miles.
 
You're welcome to mention any other products you'd like. I do think you're right in that I need to give this process adequate time to show results.

I also agree about reading the many other threads here. I've certainly done much of that.

I guess I'm just impatient. I think that was apparent earlier in this thread. Thanks for the advice.
 
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