Auto-RX

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Well, I'll bet Australia isn't below zero like it is in Minnesota for half of the year...is it? Okay, maybe it isn't half the year.

I always thought Minnesota was "severe service" anyway. We spend from the end of October through mid-March (or longer) below freezing.

I change my oil in the spring (March), mid-summer (Late July) and then just as the cold weather arrives (Early November). I don't worry much about mileage. I don't put on over 12k per year. I change it with the seasons and especially when I'm going to be towing a lot (August).

That's why I don't understand how I've "mistreated" my engine.

Nonetheless, this is a good learning experience for me.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: Tharder
Well, I'll bet Australia isn't below zero like it is in Minnesota for half of the year...is it? Okay, maybe it isn't half the year.

I always thought Minnesota was "severe service" anyway. We spend from the end of October through mid-March (or longer) below freezing.

I change my oil in the spring (March), mid-summer (Late July) and then just as the cold weather arrives (Early November). I don't worry much about mileage. I don't put on over 12k per year. I change it with the seasons and especially when I'm going to be towing a lot (August).

That's why I don't understand how I've "mistreated" my engine.

Nonetheless, this is a good learning experience for me.

Thanks


Big difference between a Minnesota winter and a Minnesota summer. If the engine is not used in soccer mom conditions during the winter and actually gets up to operating temps to burn off the junk associated with short trips you should be fine. If your winter use is severe, I would back up a 5K dino run with a UOA, You could do it at your normal 3000 mile OCI then take a sample, without draining the oil, if it comes back good continue on. The whole point of this A-Rx treatment is to clean up an engine, not create a problem by extending your OCI, especially if you are not comfortable with it.

Only recently did A-Rx change their directions to extend the OCI, run the car hot etc. The directions I have are totally different. I'm not knocking the product, just suggest you use caution running dino for 5K miles during winter if your driving doesn't allow the engine to get really hot. During the summer you should be fine. JMO
 
Well, there is someone who actually knows something about Minnesota. Thanks Dermapaint. You're right on the money.

I'll be fine throughout this whole process. It will all be conducted during our warm season. You're right about our "seasons" in MN, they are incredibly drastic. +90 to -30. It gets tiring.

As for ARX...I'll give it my best go. I've got work to do and not alot of room to change my schedule. No doubt, my engine gets up to temp every day. That I make sure of. Yet I'm not sure that's enough.

But, already there are positive results. The leaks have all stopped. The oil pressure is still low but we'll keep working on that. If it's the sensor I'll know by Saturday. If not, I'll repair the oil pump. It's not all that difficult.

I guess we watch, we wait, then we proceed on a course that becomes clearer.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Did I miss what consiidered inappropriate intervals on T6? I can't see T6 having any issues unless you've got a mechanical issue, have run the van low on oil numerous times or extended your drains out past 10kmi.
 
I have run it low on oil several times, not knowing it was leaking (a quart low). It also overheated once (waterpump failed). Neither were extensive.

Don't take my comments wrong. I've not one issue with T6. I did a lot of research when I switched to it from Amsoil. It's fantastic oil.

There are no outward signs of problems. Power is excellent. Mileage is poor, but it always has been. It runs extremely well. Very smooth. The only concern I have is the drop in my oil pressure at hot idle (22psi). Running pressure is still exceptional (50-60psi).

It may be the sensor. I'm putting in a new one this weekend. Nonetheless, I think there is nothing wrong with the one that's in there now. It's very active. Many other GM trucks I've driven show little to no movement from idle to exceleration. In many ways I think mine might actually be more accurate. It still concerns me.
 
I should mention again that the ARX has stopped all of my leaks. That alone is impressive. I mean it doesn't leak even a tiny bit. The rear main seal has completely stopped leaking.

I'm just about at a thousand miles. I'm watching the oil closely and it is holding steady at full. It's very clean...just now starting to turn a darker amber color. No sign of any leaks between the cooling and oil systems.

There is also no smoke. Not white or blue. Not at startup or while running at full temps.

Overall it seems to be running very well indeed.

I'm switching over to an oversized Fleetguard filter at 1,200 miles. I want to see if the filter makes a difference. I've been running PureOne filters for the last 50-60k.

I bought a bypass filter too, but I'm going to wait to see what my results are. If I don't see an improvement in the oil pressure I'm going to try RVS. If I don't see an improvement with ARX I'm going to assume there is wear in the mains and the camshaft. The oil pump may also be a contributing part of the oil pressure issue.

I guess for now I'll wait and see.
 
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SuperTech 10w40 (Walmart). Frank has written in several posts here (old ones) that SuperTech is a good choice (cheap too).
 
It's not that its outside of spec. I've read lots of places about guys with psi ranges of 7-10 for Big Block GM's.

That's not my concern. My concern is that it has dropped over the past two years. I know engines wear out but I thought I took care of it and it still fell. Lowered oil pressure is usually an indication of wear.

I don't recall who (Gary I think) mentioned that low oil pressure at hot idle is an indicator of mains wear. This obviously is a concern especially when you're towing significant loads. I don't need to be 1000 miles from home on a fishing trip and have it fail.

Again, I have no such issue other than at hot idle. I don't get on the throttle very much but yesterday I smacked it entering the freeway. I was shocked, the pressure was riding at nearly 70psi (maybe a bit higher). Don't know that I've ever seen it that high.

BTW, I want to mention that just in the last couple of days it is beginning to rise. Not much (about 2psi) but it is already improving. I thought is was possible there was some buildup in the way hindering the flow. Surely would not know if I didn't attempt to thoroughly clean the engine and based upon what I've learned here ARX is one of the best options.

Again, if this doesn't do as I hope at least the engine will be as clean as I can get it before I try the next additive...RVS. That stuff shows enormous potential for an engine like mine.

We'll see.

Thanks for the comments you guys...it really helps!
 
Originally Posted By: StrateLOSS
why the sudden epipheny on taking care of the motor ?


I don't think it's "sudden". I just learn of BITOG in the last month. Is that what makes it apppear as sudden? As I wrote above, I changed my oil 3 times a year, Spring, Summer and Fall.

BTW, is there a point to your question?
 
You may have taken it the wrong way, I asked because you said you took care of it but then learned that you really hadnt.

Besides the PSI dip, did anything else grab your attn to have you run this process ? If so I dont think any oil additive can fix a mechanical problem.

I commend you for starting to take care of it, any plans on changing the oil more then 3 times annually now ? J/C.

I had a ford e-250 and it had oil leaks from the pan that would drip about 1/2 a quart per 2 weeks. Id top off regularly but still would change the oil every 2 months or so when it was on sale with a filter for $20.

Everytime it came out real black and watery, I guess thats just how those types of motors are. It had 250kmiles on it. So my guess is short of meticulous maintenance from day one those motors will sludge, but still perform untill they completely die out. Which will be a while.

The transmission on your van will most likely go before the motor.

Oil psis vary per motor oil, the thinner and more lubricity the oil has = the less psi. The thicker or in this case regular ole cheap oil, will raise your psi.


Im just a novice passing along a few tips Ive learned on my own, and read on this very site. Seems like you have the help of pros here so good luck with your endeavors. And remember, not every question is an attack. And questions dont have to have points, it just a mark for curiosity.

-vic
 
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Thanks Strate, good information.

As for my oil changes I average a little less than 12k per year in mileage. So, 3 times seems more than adequate. Especially considering I use Rotella T6 (5w40) and PureONE filters.

The problem (I think) is short distance driving. My office is less than 2 miles from home. I do drive for business but only 2-3 days a week. Those days are when I rack up my mileage.

Not one other indicator except the hot idle (in gear) pressure. It tows really well and it has a lot of power. No smoke...none! The more we talk about it the more it appears to be one of two things (to me anyway); either the sensor or the oil pump. If this engine builds sludge it would do so in my engine because of all the short trips.

I'm hoping ARX can clean it out if this is the case. Maybe the oil pump screen is partially clogged. That doesn't really make sense to me since I have exceptional oil pressure at high throttle (60+psi). If there was any restriction it would show up at all engine speeds (would it not?).

I'm really suspicious of the oil pump at this point. There is absolutely no noise in this engine. It runs very smoothly and quietly.

As for the Tranny...it will last. I put in a Transgo shift kit and those are the best. I run Amsoil ATF. I already went through the Ford Tranny issues. They always blamed it on me. I finally started putting shift kits in and have NEVER had a problem since.

One last thing on the engine; when it's cold (and in bypass) the pressure is WAY high. It runs at a good 65psi all the time. Kind of suspicious of the filter or even the bypass valve itself (in the engine) as well. Not sure where to turn next.

Thanks for the comments.
 
Are you letting the motor warm up before said trip, or just letting the auto choke cut off ?

On my car I try to way for both the autochoke to cut off, and a few notches on the temp gauge to go before I move the car. But there are times where I just start it and gett moving, auto choke and everything.

I also take very short 4 miles trips to work, and the car in the winter months isnt warm untill Im actually very near my work. Luckily this car is leased so while I still try and not abuse it, I dont have to worry about the ill effects I will have at say 100k miles.

With 3k miles on my oil at this time, my OLM meter says 30% . I already feel the effects of this oil (at least in my head) being ready to get changed out. Harsh starts, and slower acceleration, poorer fuel economy. This on a 2010 civic with 6200 miles. I will for the sake of not spending $11 though ride out the oil untill I get the 15% warning on the OLM or probably even to 0%.

current oil is motorcraft 5w20.

My Jaguar however gets completely different treatmeant.

sorry for the threadjack and good luck with everything, low oil pressure is never fun
 
I warm it up "most" of the time. Sometimes I gotta get out of here. Auto-choke cutoff...what is that?

Do you mean when the the vehicle idles down off of high idle? (after the choke disengages). Most of the time, I wait. Occassionally, I don't. Sometimes I got to get moving. Most of the time the engine is warmed up fully. What is the OLM meter? What does 30% mean?

You got a little sump and a little engine, they're different than the load bearing type engines.

They're just little sh_it's, it doesn't take much to care for those. Does it?

A fool I must be.

Tharder
 
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