Auto RX with Conventional or Group 3 for a Turbo

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What you wrote:
Quote:
Mori, you never disappoint my friend.


What you meant:
Mori, you never disappoint, my friend.


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Originally Posted By: moribundman
What you wrote:
Quote:
Mori, you never disappoint my friend.


What you meant:
Mori, you never disappoint, my friend.


wink.gif




I see, I thought you were talking about my previous statement. Thanks for the grammar lesson
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Now back to oil additives.
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: moribundman
I believe a guy named Comma wants to be your bud.


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Please tell me where you would put a comma in that sentence, using it correctly.


I believe that it should be used after Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: moribundman
I believe a guy named Comma wants to be your bud.


LOL.gif


Please tell me where you would put a comma in that sentence, using it correctly.


I believe that it should be used after Thanks.


Hmm, I don't think so. Maybe if I used thanks differently.

Again............ back to oil additives.
 
Originally Posted By: BoiseRob
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What about the increased compression? Is it not "measured" proof?



Shh! You'll spoil the show.


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I'm waiting to be completely done with the second application of auto-rx to measure compression. Three of four on my subaru were all 180-182. The fourth was at a meger 163. I forgot to drop oil in the cylinder to see if it improved, but it's not eating coolant. Coolany system test proved just fine. Probably a good reason every 1K 1 quart of oil dissappears, even though it will only burn oil (as witnessed from smoke) at 5.5k rpms at WOT..

I've used mostly Motorcraft 5w20 the whole time, and some instances of supertech 5w30 and 20.
 
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Buffman,

If it is stuck rings in the meager cylinder, you should see some improvement, provided that the rings and cylinder walls have not been worn.
 
Yeah I'm waiting to finish this second application (couple thousands miles left on rinse, before I plan to recheck. I'm hoping it will improve, but I'm not hopeful. It doesn't burn as much as it used to, but it's still present. I went with two applications because of stuff I found in the PCV hardpipe in the rear of the engine.

The PCV system on this subie is very complex. Hose off each head, to the intake. Then off the back of the motor, to the intake pipe, then to the PCV Valve in the intake. It's possible oil could be getting in the intake and burning too.
 
If oil is getting into the intake have you thought about putting on a Catch Can, or as others call it an Air/Oil Seperator.
 
yeah i've thought about it, however a real catch can setup that works isn't cheap, and for a winter car, not ready to spend that kind of coin. I've contemplated running the system open for a drive to see if it will smoke at wot.
 
Oil via the PVC system either enters above the throttle body or below it. If you don't have an oil coated throttle body, then any oil migration through the PCV system is exiting via the PCV valve. Lengthen the hose and/or increase its diameter and see if consumption recedes.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Oil via the PVC system either enters above the throttle body or below it. If you don't have an oil coated throttle body, then any oil migration through the PCV system is exiting via the PCV valve. Lengthen the hose and/or increase its diameter and see if consumption recedes.


Follow Gary's advice, he knows what he is talking about when it comes to automobiles.
 
A month since my last post on my AutoRX situation.

I just changed the rinse phase (98 S70 T5, 155K, using Mobil 5w30 for the rinse) and I think it had about 2900 miles on it. No oil consumption for the second oil change since introducing Auto RX. I was 1 quart per 1K before.

I just put in 5 quarts of 10/30 QS HP synthetic, and 1 quart of peak 10/30 (got it basically free so why not?).
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Oil via the PVC system either enters above the throttle body or below it. If you don't have an oil coated throttle body, then any oil migration through the PCV system is exiting via the PCV valve. Lengthen the hose and/or increase its diameter and see if consumption recedes.


Wish I Could that. Oil certainly if it is coming in, is coming in below it. When I replaced the intake gaskets, I did the TB, and besides normal build up, it nor the intake tube had oil on it. Only inside the intake. The PCV system is goofy on the legacy, and would be impossible to add bigger diameter. I could add length though. Basically there's a vent nipple in the rear of the engine. It comes up to a "T". part of the "T" goes to the intake tube. Then the other port goes up to the PCV valve. How much hose would you add? It's got about 6" right now.
 
I'd just add some length along with an air tool filter. My SVT had a T with about 3 inches of hose so I added a foot on each side of the filter and its been fine sense.
 
Originally Posted By: Buffman
The PCV system is goofy on the legacy, and would be impossible to add bigger diameter. I could add length though.


What also matters is if the PCV hoses are angled up or down. A hose that is angled upwards from the engine will make it more difficult for oil solids to get sucked back into the intake tract while also allowing oil that's in the hose to drain back into the engine once the engine is turned off. Ribbed PCV hoses will reduce the flow of oil compared to smooth hoses.
 
Quote:
and would be impossible to add bigger diameter. I could add length though.


If you can find hose to lengthen it, then you can find an adapter to increase its diameter too. It's a bit more expensive (two more clamps and the adapter) but can be easily done if it's a commonly available hose diameter (some minor fudge factors can manage).

mori points out the advantages of managing to arrange it in a manner where it will drain back to the valve cover. It's maintenance free at that point. I've coiled them around the intake ..and taken a trip around the engine bay in severe situations.

BlackNylon_on-Black.jpg
GFBN_T_on-Black.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
and would be impossible to add bigger diameter. I could add length though.


If you can find hose to lengthen it, then you can find an adapter to increase its diameter too. It's a bit more expensive (two more clamps and the adapter) but can be easily done if it's a commonly available hose diameter (some minor fudge factors can manage).

mori points out the advantages of managing to arrange it in a manner where it will drain back to the valve cover. It's maintenance free at that point. I've coiled them around the intake ..and taken a trip around the engine bay in severe situations.

BlackNylon_on-Black.jpg
GFBN_T_on-Black.jpg



Gary always seems to find answers too any automotive problems us BITOGER'S have.
 
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