Auto RX help an engine that always used syn. oil

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I have a 94 Camry that has always used Mobil 1 or Amsoil synthetic oil since the car was new. OK, maybe the initial factory fill was regular oil. Do I assume the synthtic oil has always kept this engine clean or would Auto RX help here? I am not seeing anything wrong with the engine...just poking around for something to do.
 
Something to do? My '96 car has used M1 syn nearly it's whole life of 149k miles as well, and while I didn't notice much of any visual cleaning, I did notice a good amount of smoothness and power restored. I don't have any dyno or compression data, but from reading other posts I suspect the piston ring packs have had deposits removed. My wife who was vaguely aware that I was doing 'Something' to the engine has also enthusiastically commented on improved power.
 
Oil only, I would use either Lc20 or Auto-Rx. For more power, etc I would do a seafoam treatment.Best $5 ever!

As much as I like Auto-RX, it is not cleaning inside the valve cover too much after 1,800 miles. At the 2,000 mark, going to take pics and then do a Lc20 flush.
 
Auto-Rx cleans contaminants not cosmetic discoloration however if you use it with maintenace plan it will remove varnish just takes longer.


Make sure you check board for photos and text re: Auto-Rx about 10PM.You know you don't want to use oil additives to thin out your oil just to clean a non event like varnish.

Post photos of other products that does what Auto-Rx has done in these photos and i will send you product at N/C

Mike you know i am right line up all those LC troops it's time for surfers of this sight to see the truth in cleaning.
 
Frank, I never stated discoloration (could careless on that). I know in my other car, Auto-rx is not cleaning the black carbon (aka contaminants ) etc by the valves surface when I look inside the vc. I will take pics today and post. I am going to flush with LC20 since where I poured it in (last drain, it is clean) as in the pics.

I personally do not care about thinning of the oil if the wear patterns go down alone with other items.

Again after 1,800 miles using your instructions (confusing as they are) it is not cleaning that great with 63K on the car. I would have expected more. But that is me.

Frank, you cannot even post on the correct procedures/answers since your flyer (with product) vs your website are different. As I noted 4 times and you still have no answered. Losing faith here……………….

Try this, open a web browser look at your site, then look at your flyer with product. Pretty easy to see the issues at hand.
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Mike, I used Auto-Rx in my Volvo 97 960 with 70K miles that the P.O. had done 5K OCI's with dino.
There was a huge difference in the color of the OHC valve train. It went from a dark chocolate color to a bright golden color as with a brand new penny. I followed the instructions to the letter. And was thrilled with the difference between the before and after.
Second, Mike the biggest bang for the buck cleaning is during the rinse phase. I couldn't believe how dirty the oil was on the second oil change after the initial cleaning cycle.
 
Customers Question Regarding
Auto-Rx for Transmissions & Engines

Q: 1. If i use autoRX and instead of doing a flush via some extra quantities of transmission fluid thru a Tec-T system but a simple same quantity change, is it recommended and would it cause damage to my transmission. mine is a belt driven CVT system (continuous variable transmission).

A: 1. I guess that what you mean by “same quantity change” is that you will drain X number of quarts of transmission fluid, then add back in an equal amount of fresh trans fluid. In a traditional automatic transmission there is always fluid left behind in the torque converter. So that by this method a second drain and change is required to get a higher majority of the old fluid out. Is this an Audi drive system that you are referring to? I think Nissan is getting into this drive technology as well.

Q: 2. Aso, why doesnt the transmission need cleaning and rinsing phase like the engine oil treatment? modern transmission usually do away with elaborate and external transmission strainer and instead uses a simple built into transmission sort of strainer (it doesnt have any filter except some sort of drain back prevention device, without a place to hold the debris or dirt, where does autoRX deposit the debris or dirts?

A: 2. The contaminants that are produced in a motor are quite different than deposits found in a transmission or gear box. Motors are quite different due to all of the external factors. A constant flow of air borne particulates and moisture is constantly being sent down through the intake. Secondly combustion is never 100%, so that unburned fuel is always blowing by ring packs to some extent. The deposits in a motor are much more complex. Carbon deposits are another animal that is present in the engine, not found in the transmission. The deposits that are formed on the inside of a transmission are linked directly to heat and some exposure to air, within a closed system. Deposits, which are more like a varnish can form in the transmission when the antioxidant and dispersant package is exhausted in the fluid. Most people do not change out transmission fluid in a timely fashion. If you were to listen to almost any transmission expert, fluid changes should be 30,000 miles or yearly. Probably the most usefull filtering device in most auto transmissions is a magnet. What particulates found in transmission fluid are mainly wear metals from gear chafing. The magnet is the most effective way to collect the larger particulates, so that they don’t cause more wear.

Q: 3. Or do we have to change transmission under a 'hot' change scenario to optimise the change by having the debris and dirt hopefully in suspension state?

A: Auto-Rx has great dispersion capability. The idea is to slowly dissolve the deposits so that they are suspended in the old fluid prior to draining. It does not have to be at full operating temp. before draining by any means. This is why we recommend driving 1000 miles with the appropriate ARX dosage. I would warm it up some to get a more complete drain. May be drive around the block once before draining.

Q: 4. On the autoRX treatment for engine oils, i wished to ask if using the autoRX under the cleaning phase and then changing over to rinsing phase which is using mineral oils and then we sort of need to go for a long distance drive involving high speeds possibly, would it not because of the double stress of continuous travel as well as higher loads or heat within engine which under this rinsing phase contribute back to more slurdge - as mineral or DINO oils are usually inferior in heat control as well as other factors being very weak and thus whilst we clean it somewhat under the cleaning phase, wouldnt we be adding it all back under the rinsing phase?

A: 4. Normally, a dino oil will hold up fine for 2000 miles and the rinsing action is better, with no polar additives in the rinse oil. If this is a great concern to you with upcoming demanding driving, then you can select a group III mineral oil, which in most cases are labeled as synthetic. If you like we can get you the names of a couple group III oils. What motor are you running the clean phase on now? And what oil are you running the cleaning phase of ARX with?

Rich Eklund
 
Hmmm, ok. I do not know what this post means but whatever.

Frank, I like your product but why it is so hard fro you to answer or understand the simple 5 questions I have asked time and time again today?
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Mcburnickas. You got a 4/4 color brochure with your order. You have a website to go to to have applications to download. I just got Rich Eklund to post definitive copy on transmissions and engines i sincerely hope you reconsider not caring about thinning out your oil. And gain a deeper appreciation for Auto-Rx (by the wau Auto-Rx will remove oil additives as well as solvents)think you should know Auto-Rx is protecting your engine even if your not. Take care ps. Don't forget to look ar post on this string tonight.
 
I think if you siphen through the hard feelings there might be some useful information here Frank. I'm not sure if this has been answered, asked, or neither But: What if the sludge is from a pure synthetic source? Would ARX have a harder time cleaning that as opposed to if the sludge is from a dino oil? Maybe it would require a much longer treatment or higher dose? All I can say is the results I personally recieved from ARX are undeniable, so I know without a doubt the stuff works.
 
OK Frank – One last time here since you have still not answered the simple questions I have asked. I still could careless on oil thinning.

Your 4/4 color brochure and your website DO NOT MATCH eachother! What is so hard for you to understand that? Nevermind the other oil weight / dino question that you cannot answer.

Frank you are losing a lot of faith if the manufacture cannot answer the question brought on by a past customer.
 
1. Example, you stated any oil is fine (website/paper) but if you look back your posts here and you do not like certain oils, dino? Why are these dino oils not documented in your sales flyer if they benefit the end user?
Maybe they found this information out after they made the flyer.

2. You just stated “Viscosity is any oil' wt and 10-30wt is the best for rinsing”. Some you state are "best" but is not on your site nor your directions with order? Why?
Lol,HUH? Um safe bet use 10-30wt and one of the recommended Dino oils. If you engine calls for something like 20-50w then your stuck with it, but if you can get away with 10-30 it's recommended.

3. You stated 2 oz per qt of your product in existing oil (which is incorrect; see #5). The 2 oz rule is wide open since in your paper copy you stated for 6 qt sys use 12 oz; that is easy. If 5 qt sys use 10 ounces then keep 2 oz of Maintenance dose; keep that extra 2 oz in your head. Then 2" down on the paper you have printed, add 10 ounces of your product in 5 qts sys then add the extra 2 ounces to oil filter. So this is not 2 oz per qt and which is it? Again the directions are not correct or the same.
Dude, just drop a full bottle of ARX down the pipe for engines taking 5 to 6 quarts of oil, if it's 4 qts take a couple ounces and put it down the tranny.

4 Then your 2 or 3 oz for oil changes (Maintenance dose) makes no sense. You say for a normal engines, need 3 then a sludge engine needs 3 (which they are both the same on your site!).Heck the dosages of the paper copy (they send in the order) and the website do not match! You would think after 6 years of selling it……..
Just use 3oz.

5. Next would be just adding your product to existing oil. Which is not correct either based on your posts on this subject and from Terry (and others).
It has been said many times that the oil filter is the main issue here, if it's a new or newer filter the wear on the oil is secondary. I personally would want to use real old oil, just a little common sense here.

6 Then throw in the use any dino oil. Ok, like which one and you stated many times certain non synthetics are not recommend due to ester count (in dino’s)
An admin on ARX said use any dino but Frank says use either Castrol GTX or Haviland Base Oil's, so go try some Castrol. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here anyone.
 
Donald,
There have been a couple of post from people on this forum about your question. I don't recall the exact thread, nor the exact user, but I recall reading that one person ran 100,000 miles worth of synthetic oil changes, and visually everything looked clean. But after doing an Auto-RX treatment, he found that the engine ran smoother and better.

How many miles do you have on your vehicle? I would suggest doing at least one treatment if you've got 100,000-150,000 miles.
 
Shelby, Feedback to your post. It is nice to see you post some answers why Frank cannot do it is mystery. He should be doing this since it is HIS product.

#2 answer: the weight of the oil came up in previous post from Frank (30 wt best), Ask him not me? I have no clue since he is not documented any ware.

#3, sure use 3 oz but it is not per the instructions. Another MIA topic.

#4 The Maintenance does is still MIA. It says 2 to 3 in his flyer and 3 online for both. Give me a break; which is it here.

#5 If you have seaform, Lc20 etc in oil YOU CANNOT add it to the existing oil. So another flat MIA topic on Auto-Rx.

#6 Frank says online and in his product flyer ANY dino oil is fine...then he posts other things here (ester dino oils that are not good) and on his site. Not all dino are fine…MIA again.

Again, all this misinformation should not be here. When he plays the "did you read...." game sure, but there is still open issues. I should NOT have to second guess all this stuff or go online etc. It looks pretty bad when his flyer says one thing, online says another or I have to come here or his site… No continuity at all!

I am not knocking his product but these things are no all inline. So he really should stop playing the read game and maybe fix them or add a "correction webpage".
 
Using full synthetic oils is no guarantee that ring deposits will not form. Sure they are generally more durable under high heat situations, but far from bullet proof. Folks that have run full synthetics for the life of their cars, that have run ARX, will likely recieve benefits, such as ring pack cleansing.
 
I think you're making way too much of this. The instructions are about as simple as can be. As with everything else on this board A-Rx gets over-analyzed. Which is what you are doing now.

Follow the directions. Your car isn't going to explode because you use 40 weight oil or old oil. All that was discussed here is effectiveness. What don't you understand?

The flyer is old. The website is new. If you're confused, go with what it says on the website since it can be updated more frequently, for virtually no cost.

Use 5w30 GTX, old or new.

Use 3oz. per maintenance dose.

Case closed.
 
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I think you're making way too much of this. The instructions are about as simple as can be. As with everything else on this board A-Rx gets over-analyzed. Which is what you are doing now.

Follow the directions. Your car isn't going to explode because you use 40 weight oil or old oil. All that was discussed here is effectiveness. What don't you understand?

The flyer is old. The website is new. If you're confused, go with what it says on the website since it can be updated more frequently, for virtually no cost.

Use 5w30 GTX, old or new.

Use 3oz. per maintenance dose.

Case closed.




I will follow the directions; problem is which ones are correct? That is the original questions that Frank is lacking.

Flyer is old??? They are brand new color flyers (4 page).So sorry not a case closed when the inventor cannot answer why they are all not the same. If people do not have access online, they go by the flyer. That part is case cosed.
 
How do they order if they don't have internet access?

The flyer is not incorrect, per se. It just doesn't include all of the "insight" that is gathered on this forum.

K.I.S.S.

You need to chill. Nothing bad is going to happen because the flyer and the website don't match each other word for word. Thanks for looking out for all those "internet challenged" customers out there but you are obviously not one of them so therefore your argument is moot.

Grilling Frank over miniscule details is pointless. If you really care this much, the information is there. Look it up. That's all he is saying.
 
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