Auto RX didn't work for me

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quote:

Originally posted by kenw:
Cheyenne gets well below 0f and stays there a long time.

Not really. I lived there from '96-'04 and there were very few days where the temps were below 0. Out of those 8 years, I'd say there were less than 20-30 total days where the temps were below 0. The temps are actually fairly mild there, it's the wind that's so treacherous. Now North Dakota, that's a different story. I spent 12 years there and it got below 0 and stayed there for months!
 
how cold does it get in Cheyenne?

In my BMW, 15w40/50 is reccomended down to 3F or 0F or some low temperature like that.

If you get a lot of noise, etc., Id likely cut 15w40 with 5w30 or 10w-40 chevron supreme... Or see if you can get motorcrqft 10w-30 diesel oil from the local ford dealer and use that straight or in a mix with 15w40.

JMH
 
I'm not in Cheyenne anymore. I work in Chicago during the week and commute home to Dayton OH on the weekends. When I lived in Cheyenne I would switch from 10W-30 to 5w30 in the winter and I never had any problems.
 
Chevron does make a 10W-30 Delo 400...not sure if they make a 5W-40 version of it, but I wouldn't be surprised.

A local distributor said he'd order me 12 quarts of the 10W-30, but I ended up not needing it for the use I was going to put it to.

Also, not sure on what the CCV, MRV, or pour point values are on the 10W-30 or 5W-40 (if this one even exists).

I can tell you that I had mostly used jug of Delo 400 15w40 sitting in the back of my truck last winter. I picked it up and turned it upside down - the oil moved like thick cold molasses.

Definitely not something I'd want in my engine come the cold season here in the St. Louis, MO area.

Chuck
 
This is what I would do, order another two bottles of auto-rx.

Drain current oil.

Replace with either Delo or Havoline
Replace oil filter
RX-Clean phase
Drive 2500 miles

Drain

rinse

then repeat the top step again. No harm in trying.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Vspec:
This is what I would do, order another two bottles of auto-rx.

Drain current oil.

Replace with either Delo or Havoline
Replace oil filter
RX-Clean phase
Drive 2500 miles

Drain

rinse

then repeat the top step again. No harm in trying.


I've done this already and repeated. No sense in doing it again. Doing it again would just be a waste of money.
 
I checked my oil this morning and noticed it was down about 1/3 qt. It appears the Delo has slowed consumption, but not stopped it. I'm not crazy about running the heavy weight Delo in this engine. I don't think it likes it. It idles rough and has a strange faint vibration throughout the RPM range. It acts like it's straining to run against the resistance of the heavier oil. I think I'll switch back to the 10W-30 and just deal with the consumption.
 
For days i have read your misadventures with Auto-Rx
why don't you try following the application? probably not an original idea however it works.Your
application ( once again ) is "Heavy Oil Burning/Sludge Issues" if your going to post that you folowed this instruction "to the letter" than your engine had serious mechanical problems way before you used Auto-Rx.
 
Have you tried any of the HM 10w30 oils? Maxlife, Castrol GTX HM, Citgo UltraLife or Meijer HM 10w30 (same oil). It may be a middle-of-the-road solution that suits your 4-banger better than DELO400 (a pretty thick HDEO too!). You'll do your Tercel good with a HM 10w30 in those cold windy city winters.

You'll never know what your engine likes until you run each of the above oils for at least one OCI, 2 is preferred.

If you like DELO so much since it has dramatically cut oil consumtion, I suggest cutting it with some Havoline 5w20 (both avail @ big bad WalMart). One quart for summer, 50-50 for winter.

You can also try Trop Artic 10w30 SynBlend (good cold temp properties, avail @ Walmart), thickened with half bottle of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment (VSOT, avail at Murray's, PepBoys, etc.). Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
quote:

For days i have read your misadventures with Auto-Rx
why don't you try following the application? probably not an original idea however it works.Your
application ( once again ) is "Heavy Oil Burning/Sludge Issues" if your going to post that you folowed this instruction "to the letter" than your engine had serious mechanical problems way before you used Auto-Rx.

I do not understand your point here. You seem to be implying that it is Bottgers fault for not knowing that he had a mechanical problem. The issue is that when you decide to use ARX you are taking a gamble as to whether or not it will solve your problem. Sure ARX "works", but you do not know if it will work for your problem. There is no good way to tell if your oil loss is due to a "mechanical" problem or not. So, ARX is a gamble.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Frank:
For days i have read your misadventures with Auto-Rx
why don't you try following the application? probably not an original idea however it works.Your
application ( once again ) is "Heavy Oil Burning/Sludge Issues" if your going to post that you folowed this instruction "to the letter" than your engine had serious mechanical problems way before you used Auto-Rx.


I assume you're referring to me. I followed the instructions to the tee, so I would say you are correct in saying my engine has mechanical wear.
 
quote:

Originally posted by kreigle:

quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:
The engine is a 1.5L Toyota ('93 Tercel) and it uses roughly 1/2 qt per every 300 miles. It also puffs smoke during cold starts.

Interesting to see someone in the same 'boat' as me. I didn't see mentioned; do you have a lot of visible smoke? My car 'uses' a quart of oil in under 500 miles (last oil change saw an average of 467 miles/qt). I have no visible smoke, except for extended periods of idling (10 minutes +). I've tried 15w40 and I've tried topping up 5w30 and 10w30 with 60wt with no change.

If you find something that actually helps, let me know.


Ever try straight 30 or 40 or 50
shocked.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:

quote:

Originally posted by Winston:
Interesting to see people jump in and say that "of course ARX will not fix a mechanical problem". Well that is the whole issue. If there are no leaks, it is hard to tell if oil loss is due to a mechanical problem. So Bottgers went throught the whole ARX process and it did not help him. Thus, ARX will not help everyones problems. 1 qt per 300 miles is A LOT of oil. You might as well try a thicker oil. No need to drain and refill.

It uses more like 1/2 qt per every 300 miles. That's still quite a bit for me.


toooooo much
these engines die soon
crushedcar.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:

quote:

Originally posted by JHZR2:
I dont quite understand why you wouldnt try switching to a 15w40 or even a 20w-50, eintirely in the crankcase. Sure it may sap you of 1/2 hp and 1/2 MPG, but likely there are a lot more losses than this if your car IS burning oil.

What is the concern? According to many on here, toyota designs their engines for 40wt oil usually, and it is reccomended in most other parts of the world.

Whether there is residue of some sort from oil burning, a leak that causes dropout of oil, etc. using a HDEO 15w40 will ensure top-notch cleanliness, its cheap and easy to buy in gallons, and will be far more stable under harder conditions than havoline...

Id get some delo 15w40 and use that instead.

JMH


If the useage gets noticeably worse, I will try a heavier weight.


hehehe hahaha hehehehahaha
its worst NOW
try the heavier weight NOW

a good 15-40
or a straight 30 or a straight 40

just try it and seeeee
 
quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:
I just thought I'd post that I've run a full tank of gas since I changed to the 15w40 and so far it hasn't used a drop. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it goes.

good to hear...
 
quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:
I checked my oil this morning and noticed it was down about 1/3 qt. It appears the Delo has slowed consumption, but not stopped it. I'm not crazy about running the heavy weight Delo in this engine. I don't think it likes it. It idles rough and has a strange faint vibration throughout the RPM range. It acts like it's straining to run against the resistance of the heavier oil. I think I'll switch back to the 10W-30 and just deal with the consumption.

sounds like its fine.. maybe try to cut it with some mmo.

Maybe try the straight 30

I can tell this to you.

I had a burner since new and that truck would suck oil like air.

It ran great on 30 hated all multilubes until the end when they came out with the SL's it tended to be happy with it to some degree...

It had several 30 weights in there for comparison, and they all acted different IMHO

The same with my new truck
Only run 5-30 so far and tried several to compare, and they all functioned different
to me

if your set against this oil
at least try a 30

or just go back and add a thickener to your other lube... but a lot of burners do like a 40 weight

my wifes old car would spit out anything but 40w
and it liked a 50+
 
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