Audi 2.0 TFSI - 502.00 Choices
- Thread starter dbrowne1
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Originally Posted By: dbrowne1
The main concern seems to be that the TBN of these 504/507 oils starts much lower, and that NA fuel (with its ethanol and higher sulphur) could deplete to a dangerous level rather quickly.
I'm planning on running a 5K mile OCI regardless, which I think is safe in that regard, but you'd need to look at some analyses to see how those oils react to longer intervals.
That is a concern when first comparing these oils, but it seems that the chemistry of the low SAPS oils (VW 504/507 and others) all show an unconventionally low TBN, and several tribologists here have suggested that it's deliberately low with the new low SAPS oils and because of the different chemistry the low TBN is not a problem at all (ie, it's supposed to be that way and is not providing any less protection).
I'm running the Castrol SLX LL03 in my S5 Audi, and will be halving the dealer OCI.
The main concern seems to be that the TBN of these 504/507 oils starts much lower, and that NA fuel (with its ethanol and higher sulphur) could deplete to a dangerous level rather quickly.
I'm planning on running a 5K mile OCI regardless, which I think is safe in that regard, but you'd need to look at some analyses to see how those oils react to longer intervals.
That is a concern when first comparing these oils, but it seems that the chemistry of the low SAPS oils (VW 504/507 and others) all show an unconventionally low TBN, and several tribologists here have suggested that it's deliberately low with the new low SAPS oils and because of the different chemistry the low TBN is not a problem at all (ie, it's supposed to be that way and is not providing any less protection).
I'm running the Castrol SLX LL03 in my S5 Audi, and will be halving the dealer OCI.
Originally Posted By: dbrowne1
That was the original point in my starting this thread - to find the best 502.00 oil to prevent/control deposits.
I think both theory and the limited, anecdotal evidence out there shows that GC and Mobil 1 0W-40 are both good choices in the NA market for that criteria. If you have cold starts up there, GC may be ever so slightly better.
Well, after running Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 for the first 15K miles, you may have talked me into trying Mobil 1 0W40 for a run or two. I am also worried about the DI deposit issue -- I wonder if my adding a bottle of Techron before every oil change is doing any real good or not.
That was the original point in my starting this thread - to find the best 502.00 oil to prevent/control deposits.
I think both theory and the limited, anecdotal evidence out there shows that GC and Mobil 1 0W-40 are both good choices in the NA market for that criteria. If you have cold starts up there, GC may be ever so slightly better.
Well, after running Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 for the first 15K miles, you may have talked me into trying Mobil 1 0W40 for a run or two. I am also worried about the DI deposit issue -- I wonder if my adding a bottle of Techron before every oil change is doing any real good or not.
Originally Posted By: sbachmeier
Well, after running Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 for the first 15K miles, you may have talked me into trying Mobil 1 0W40 for a run or two. I am also worried about the DI deposit issue -- I wonder if my adding a bottle of Techron before every oil change is doing any real good or not.
Fuel additives will do nothing to combat the valve deposits in a direct injection engine. They might do "next to nothing" if the injectors are oriented in a manner that hits the bottoms of the intake valves a little bit, but you're still not seeing anywhere close to the same cleaning effect as you have on a manifold injection engine.
I don't think your report looks bad at all. Everything other than iron looks low enough and is trending in the right direction, and your engine is still new so even the iron isn't a big concern. Mobil 1 0W-40 is great if you want a 502.00 oil. I am thinking I'm going to use a 504.00 oil, either Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Castrol SLX Professional LL03. They're about the same price ($8.xx a quart) from Pep Boys and the dealer, respectively.
Well, after running Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 for the first 15K miles, you may have talked me into trying Mobil 1 0W40 for a run or two. I am also worried about the DI deposit issue -- I wonder if my adding a bottle of Techron before every oil change is doing any real good or not.
Fuel additives will do nothing to combat the valve deposits in a direct injection engine. They might do "next to nothing" if the injectors are oriented in a manner that hits the bottoms of the intake valves a little bit, but you're still not seeing anywhere close to the same cleaning effect as you have on a manifold injection engine.
I don't think your report looks bad at all. Everything other than iron looks low enough and is trending in the right direction, and your engine is still new so even the iron isn't a big concern. Mobil 1 0W-40 is great if you want a 502.00 oil. I am thinking I'm going to use a 504.00 oil, either Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 or Castrol SLX Professional LL03. They're about the same price ($8.xx a quart) from Pep Boys and the dealer, respectively.
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