Attributes of a motor oil you look for

But history has proven the API and ILSAC specs inadequate due to the need for continuing "improvements". Some of the sequences allow for a high amount of wear, some rely on visual assessment. Meet or exceed is self-reporting to obtain certification.
What's most inadequate are vehicle owners that don't know the difference between normal manufacturer OCI mileage recommendations and their Severe Service recommendations.

Vast majority of us fall under Severe and that's plenty-fine for API / ILSAC specs. Also plenty-fine because these new oils of SP / GF 6a produce less carbon / soot, which cleaning costs over time is more expensive than doing the job right to begin with.
My Euro Oils are SP and the additives group more mirrors Dexos Group than the Euro SL groups.

If you have a USA-typical four cylinder of TGDI / GDI variety - not one of European badges, all those 6-10 OCI / high HTHS / low Noack built Euro-type oils should be traded-in for shorter ILSAC OCIs.
 
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How did you determine that it was "performing better"?
Using my vast expertise, I am available to quality assess motor oil in situ.

I do not travel out of state, so you must have the ability to transport the vehicle to my home County. This rigorous test and assessment will require approx. five days and over 150 mile of short and long trips withing a 50 mile radius of my business location. Car will be returned in "whatever" condition at the end of the assessment period to the original drop off point. A typed report will be provided via electronic means.

There is no other cost for this service.
 
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My choices:
M1 ESP 5W-30 because of its min. 3.5 HTHS
M1 ESP 0W-30 because of its min. 3.5 HTHS
Any that is C3 with a min. 3.5 HTHS.
 
1) must have a rebate 2) or on clearance 3) some kind of big brand, or house brand. Not going to buy a quart of ladled oil from 'ole smokeys backyard tar pit.
 
I am going in to my local FORD dealer for an alignment touch up as I dropped the right rear wheel into a washed out shoulder on a intersection. Tracking is not confident inspiring.
Now. Being Ford, they say Motorcraft SS, but as it was a value leader lube special I will not rule out "whatever bulk" was being pushed that quarter in the area. I will try to nose around the shop if the service manager or parts guy appears to deflect.

Years ago, at Subaru, they had an OC special, brought the Wife's Subaru there. This was during the "only use Genuine Subaru Motor Oil" period (which they later back off on). I saw they installed Peak 0w20. Car ran well on that until the oil was thoroughly heat soaked on a 2 hour trip - then the engine got extremely noisy.

Back to the FORD; I am quite curious what they installed, as I wish to use this "mystery" oil for the next OCI. - Arco

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Just ask him directly. Tell him you're really pleased with the oil and maybe tell him about this site too. Can't hurt. I'm curious as to what oil it is.
 
I spend a lotta time researching everything I purchase. For oils, the only oils I'll purchase:

Schaeffer's, HPL, Amsoil, Royal Purple HPS, Torco
 
Long time member here. I've read so many threads on what kind of oil to use. Admittedly, I'm not a tribologist. To help me understand the more important characteristics of a specific oil, I'm asking for those interested to list the three, or more if necessary. most important attributes of an oil you look for that moves you to use it, and if so inclined, why. I'm assuming already that a full synthetic is a given. Appreciate the help.
This black bottle with gray & teal label is all I worry about these days after proving with data that some other oils can’t even deliver on what they claim, let alone exceed them. The relevant data is right there in yellow: “When results matter”.

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SP-gf6a,dexos gen 3 full synthetic, and the widest reasonable temperature span as lowest pour point & (ccs rating), and highest flash point,and consideration to the base oil composition,(if i can find out), hths is a factor in view of viscosity requirments ,and of course availability in stores near me.
 
Since I don't have a vehicle that requires mid SAPS or low SAPS oil, the first is always MB Sheet 229.5 and Porsche A40 approval. Then I usually look at the TBN, followed by flash point and pour point before looking at NOACK and any available information on base oil composition.
 
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